As an proprietor or collector of mechanical watches, you take care of your prized possessions. Accountable possession contains recurrently taking your watches in for service. Many individuals, nonetheless, are shocked once they first discover out {that a} common watch service can value a whole bunch of euros/{dollars}. So the query naturally arises: what really goes on throughout a watch service?
This text is primarily for comparatively new watch aficionados. The topic might already be fairly acquainted to seasoned collectors. However, then once more, you by no means know. Chances are you’ll be taught one thing in any case. I, for one, did whereas writing it.
Look carefully on the rubies to see the grime that has gathered over time
Why does a watch should be serviced?
Let’s begin with essentially the most primary query: why do you want a watch service? The reply is kind of easy. A mechanical watch consists of dozens to even a whole bunch of parts, a lot of that are shifting. This implies there are friction factors throughout any watch motion — gears meshing collectively and pivots rotating in artificial ruby bearings, for instance.
These elements are lubricated with oils. Again within the day, these could be pure oils, sourced, as an example, from sperm whales. As we speak, they’re artificial oils, with specialised formulation for various purposes. The pure oils of the previous would slowly thicken and gunk up. Ultimately, that will cease a watch from operating altogether. Contrastingly, artificial oils evaporate, leaving elements operating dry.
Naturally, when a watch stops working, you are taking it to a watchmaker to have it fastened. However when trendy oils evaporate, your watch will proceed operating. At this level, nonetheless, you possibly can think about the elements begin consuming away at one another at an accelerated tempo. When you understand {that a} primary ETA 2824 caliber, operating at 28,800 beats per hour, “ticks” over 1 / 4 of a billion occasions per yr, you possibly can think about what that does to tiny steel elements inside.
Watch service Step 1: Inspection and prognosis
Whenever you go for a watch service, step one is often a visible inspection of the watch. A watchmaker will need to know if the watch has taken a foul knock, as an example. Any aesthetic harm, similar to scratches, is often recorded to forestall discussions afterward.
Subsequent, the watch’s features are examined. The watchmaker will wind it, pull out the crown, and set the time. An skilled watchmaker can inform rather a lot by the best way this all feels. Subsequent, the watch goes on a timegrapher to measure its efficiency. The watchmaker not solely seems to be on the timekeeping but additionally on the rotation of the steadiness wheel. That is displayed as “amplitude” and represented in levels of rotation. The outcomes are then recorded for later reference.
Subsequent, the watchmaker will open the case to carry out a visible inspection of the motion. Some will fully “de-case” the motion at this level, and they’ll make an estimate of the work required and the associated fee concerned. At this level, nicely over an hour of labor might have already taken place. This is the reason some companies cost a “return unrepaired” price in case you resolve to say no a service quote.
Step 2: Disassembly and cleansing
The subsequent step in an everyday watch service is a full disassembly of the motion. That is the place we see clear variations between “correct” servicing and fast and soiled repairs. A service level on the mall would possibly do a fast mud elimination and oiling and name it a service. This may, nonetheless, set you up for complications down the highway.
A correct watch service contains the complete disassembly of the caliber, all the way down to the final screw. Good watchmakers will carefully kind and place all of the elements in baskets, conserving them grouped for simple reassembly in a while.
The elements are then “flushed” or cleaned in an answer whereas being bombarded with high-frequency “ultrasound” vibration. They could additionally get steam cleaned. The aim right here is to take away all outdated oils and any filth that will have gathered. This contains shavings from the elements themselves.
Watch service Step 3: Reassembly and half substitute/restore
As soon as the elements are completely clear, it’s time to reassemble the motion. Any good watchmaker, nonetheless, will totally examine the elements alongside the best way. If a pivot, as an example, has worn considerably, it could wobble in its bearing ever so barely. This could trigger all types of points and accelerated put on down the road. Subsequently, an excellent watchmaker will substitute such an element.
You probably have a uncommon classic caliber, the half might not be available anymore. You and/or your watchmaker might need to hunt it down, which may typically take months. Alternatively, recreating the half often is the solely choice, which could be very costly. That is one among a number of the explanation why a standard “workhorse” motion is prone to provide the best possession expertise.
Lubricating a watch motion is a really exact job. It isn’t a matter of dropping some oil on the shifting elements. We’re not oiling a bicycle chain or a squeaky door right here. Every caliber has particular lubrication charts, which inform the watchmaker what sort of oil to insert the place and in what portions.
Step 4: Case, bracelet, and crystal
The motion is now prepared for re-casing. However you may additionally need to have some work carried out on the watch case, bracelet, and/or crystal. The crystal is often changed with a brand new one if it isn’t in pristine situation.
The case and bracelet are cleaned as nicely. Because it does contained in the caliber, filth additionally accelerates put on in a steel bracelet. Grease out of your pores and skin paired with mud and sand makes for a really efficient sharpening compound, inflicting bracelet stretch. Maintaining your bracelet clear is, subsequently, one thing you are able to do your self to lengthen its lifespan.
Day-Date case earlier than
Day-Date case after
Whether or not the case and bracelet obtain aesthetic refinishing ought to all the time be mentioned with the consumer. Some want them to look model new, whereas others want to see the battle scars gathered over time. I’ve written a devoted article about refinishing, which you’ll learn right here. A part of the necessary casework is to exchange all seals. These dry out over time, compromising water resistance.
Watch service Step 5: Regulating and QC
After reassembling the watch fully, the watchmaker will regulate it. On youthful watches, that is carried out to inside producer specs. On classic watches, this may occasionally not all the time be doable anymore. The watch’s efficiency is measured in numerous positions. The watchmaker could make changes in varied methods relying on the kind of regulating mechanism used within the caliber.
The watch’s efficiency is then measured over time to see if every part labored out correctly. The ability reserve and timekeeping ought to carry out to spec, as ought to water resistance.
How a lot time does a watch service take?
A full service, excluding case and bracelet work, can take between six hours and several other days. A easy time-only caliber might take the higher a part of a working day. A grand complication can take a full week for an everyday service.
So in case you come throughout a watchmaker who will carry out a full service for, say, €100 or €200, alarm bells ought to begin ringing. You’ll be able to relaxation assured there might be no full disassembly. Components is not going to be inspected for put on, and lubrication is not going to comply with the caliber pointers. The watchmaker might get the caliber again to first rate efficiency figures, however it might line you up for a lot larger repairs down the road.
Sending a watch in for a service, general, can take weeks or months. This may be all the way down to the watchmaker’s capability and workload. In the event you undergo a boutique, your watch might return to Switzerland, including to the timeframe. Relying on the watchmaker’s course of, the QC a part of the watch service can take 72 hours alone.
Closing ideas
As you see, there’s quite a bit that goes right into a watch service. Moreover, the work itself isn’t precisely straightforward. It takes plenty of coaching and expertise to get a correct really feel for the finer nuances that maintain a watch ticking. So as to add insult to damage, the quantity of people that can do that work on the desired degree is lowering.
So let’s say that, on common, about eight to 10 hours of specialised work goes right into a watch service. Now multiply that by the hourly price that you just suppose is cheap for extremely expert craftspeople. Add supplies, overhead, and margin for the model/retailer, and also you rapidly perceive why a watch service is so costly.
In a bid for effectivity, some manufacturers merely substitute the caliber. On the decrease finish of the spectrum, the calibers could also be designed to be discarded altogether. Some manufacturers, nonetheless, substitute the caliber with a refurbished one after which service your caliber to place it in another person’s watch. This can be an environment friendly method, however it isn’t a lot appreciated by aficionados preferring to maintain the watch as is. If this issues you, ask your potential watchmaker about it earlier than handing in your watch.
I’m curious to listen to about your method to look at servicing. How typically do you will have your watches serviced, and do you undergo the model or an impartial watchmaker? Tell us within the feedback under.
Lastly, an enormous “thanks” to the watchmakers at Tempus for offering background data and the wonderful photos for this text.
