The identify Kollokium won’t sound acquainted to most of our readers. What’s Kollokium…? Is it a model? Not likely. It’s a collaborative challenge between three mates, all pretty established names throughout the watch business. Even the great folks behind this enterprise aren’t positive what Kollokium actually is. “That is the place all of it begins – and possibly ends.” What’s sure is that, with this Projekt 01 Variant B, we’re taking a look at a correct horological UFO. A time-telling object that appears at issues from a really completely different perspective. And, in a world the place standardization appears to rule, it’s refreshing.
Behind Kollokium are Manuel Emch (a person behind the rebirth of Jaquet Droz, but additionally Romain Jerome, Raketa and Louis Erard), Barth Nussbaumer (a revered watch designer) and Amr Sindi (aka The Horophile). In their very own phrases, Kollokium shouldn’t be a model. It’s a inventive platform created by this trio with no actual technique apart from having fun with creativity. They declare to don’t have any outlined inventive path, no rehashed historical past, and no constraints. Freedom is the operative phrase right here, and Kollokium responds to architectural, inventive and design impulses that encourage the founders. As they are saying, Kollokium shouldn’t be a lot a stylistic train however a temper.
In watchmaking and industrial design basically, we frequently hear the motto “type follows operate” (which is commonly credited to architect Louis Sullivan, resuming Viollet-le-Duc’s theories). The entire concept is that practicality, performance and rationality within the design typically result in well-designed objects, in opposition to ornamentation the place design takes over performance. Some nice examples of this concept could be present in watchmaking… The Speedmaster, designed to be environment friendly in area, however nonetheless extremely interesting. The watches of Max Invoice are additionally nice examples. And even the primary fashions designed by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche.
The general idea
With its Projekt 01, Kollokium appears to be like at issues from a distinct angle. It’s a watch with firstly a design idea in thoughts. It appears, at first, that we’re taking a look at an object the place type has preceded operate. But, additionally it is an outstanding instance of what lo-fi design is, and the ultimate result’s a time-telling merchandise that doesn’t compromise on performance. And that makes this watch novel, recent, odd, distinctive and fairly fascinating.
The Kollokium Projekt 01 was first launched in late 2023 in a restricted run of 99 watches for family and friends of the three founders, not for most people. What we’re taking a look at right now is the Variant B, a 199-piece restricted version that was (sorry) out there for buy however is now bought out. Extra on that disappointment later. The Variant B is usually equivalent, with small updates to make it completely different…
So, what does this “work of transhumanism” appear to be? Properly, the quick reply is “it appears to be like like nothing else” and has akin to distinctive really feel to it. It’s industrial, brutal and uncooked, however on the similar time overly designed and refined within the smallest particulars. It’s a intelligent watch too, with some components that seem much more function-driven than one would possibly suppose at first. It mixes components of business design with geek tradition and Nineteen Eighties vibe. Can I outline it…? Not likely. And it doesn’t actually matter.
A die-cast metal case
Most watches are created from both milled, machined or stamped chrome steel, processes that give their shapes to the instances. Kollokium has determined to maintain issues deceptively unadorned and utilitarian, whereas on the similar time utilizing a course of that’s hardly recognized from watchmaking; die casting. Clearly a deliberate far cry from the standard polished and satin-brushed finishings we frequently see, the case was desired to boast virtually no ending or embellishment, and as a substitute characteristic a uniform, industrial metal tool-like look. Casting has but a sure magnificence, leading to a matte, natural texture with virtually no sharp angles.
But, the case and its general extremely rational conception aren’t that straightforward. First, the feel is someway exceptional… Not likely matte, not frosted, not grained, it has then again an actual tactility. The form isn’t only a case both. Have a look at the Kollokium Projekt 01 carefully and also you’ll see that there’s complexity within the lugs and the aspect profile. Even the font used on the band shouldn’t be there for the decorum… It’s virtually like a mandatory reference for storage. And this industriality is what makes the Projekt 01 such a particular watch. “Die-cast metal in all its industrial glory” to cite the trio.
Look behind the watch and also you’ll see one thing that completely summarizes the temper of Kollokium’s group; “principally a Swiss made watch that may get moist” is what you’ll learn. However with a 30m water-resistance, don’t get it soaked both. What issues is the arduous no-frill expertise, a mixture of brutalism and tactile expertise. The opposite factor of curiosity right here is the crystal, or ought to I name it a cylindrical cowl that closes the case and frames the dial. As soon as once more, it’s barely unconventional (particularly on this worth vary) and provides to the softness of the expertise, regardless of the visible roughness.
The consolation on the wrist is slightly distinctive. The Kollokium Projekt 01 isn’t solely compact with its 40mm diameter and quick lugs, but it surely’s additionally mild and nice to the contact, and to the pores and skin. That is even strengthened by the low centre of gravity and the elastic strap with a hook-like buckle that enables the watch to remain firmly in place with out the sensation of being tight.
A puzzling dial made to disturb the attention
After I stated that this watch was about type earlier than operate, this may be seen clearly on the dial. Is that this pin artwork from the Nineteen Eighties? A graphical illustration of a sound wave? A miniature cityscape? A pixelated picture to be deciphered? Perhaps a type of visible exams used to diagnose color blindness…? It’s really a intelligent 3D reconstruction of an deliberately pixelated picture rendered by Adobe Illustrator, made to deliberately puzzle your thoughts. You won’t see it at first, however the obvious mess of this dial is extremely intentional and much more organized than you suppose at first. Look carefully, possibly squint your eyes a bit, and the 12 hour markers will seem, with batons for the cardinal hours and circles for the others.
This watch methods you and puzzles you in a slightly inventive method. In actuality, the dial of the Kollokium Projekt 01 is extremely complicated. It’s composed of a subtly textured black base set with 468 individually hand-applied cylindrical components, which are available six completely different diameters and heights, positioned exactly to create the impact of a “regular” show. Every of those cylinders is sandblasted, then full of white Tremendous-LumiNova with a blue emission – that is the primary distinction with the Variant A, which has orange emitting SLN. The second principal distinction is the seconds hand, now matching the monochromatic theme of the dial, whereas the Variant A featured a red-coloured hand.
To counteract this optical phantasm and to make sure optimum legibility, oblong-shaped hour and minute palms have been created with black centre elements and white Tremendous-LumiNova outlines. They’re thus making a damaging picture of a hand – even when, at night time, the legibility is barely compromised. The fantastic thing about this watch comes from the puzzling expertise, a second whenever you don’t actually perceive what you’re taking a look at and, on the similar time, precisely that it’s a watch that tells the time.
Additionally shocking (or not) is the quantity of reactions that this watch generates. Not essentially constructive at first, however extra questioning… As a watch that’s removed from basic horological codes, it speaks to non-watch folks as an object of design and to observe lovers as a really distinctive timepiece. And it really might be the signal of a well-designed merchandise that transcends a small circle of seasoned folks.
Basic mechanics
Contained in the case, holding issues easy and accessible (haute horlogerie wasn’t the aim right here, objectively) is an automated La Joux-Perret G101 calibre. This different to the ETA 2824 runs at a 4Hz frequency and shops a strong 68-hour energy reserve, a powerful aggressive benefit over related base actions.
The motion is positioned in a metal container positioned atop the decrease factor which incorporates the lugs. It operates because of a crown formed like a valve (once more, industrialism is essential) which is straightforward and nice to make use of.
Availability & Worth
The Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant B is priced at CHF 2,666.66 (excluding VAT). I wouldn’t name this accessible however whenever you take a look at the complexity of the dial, the form of the crystal and the general consideration to element, it does really feel justified. Retro-futuristic, neo-brutalist, it’s a watch like no different that may create feelings.
About its availability, I’m sorry to announce that the batch of 199 items is now bought out. The Variant B, as you see it right here, gained’t be reproduced. However somebody (who could be or not concerned within the challenge…) informed me that in the event you’re affected person sufficient, some extra editions of the Kollokium Projekt 01 might seem after summer time. Who is aware of…?
For extra particulars, please go to kollokium.com.
