Self-winding calibres are undeniably an development, particularly these boasting prolonged autonomy. But, there’s a timeless ritual, virtually archaic, the deliberate act of winding a watch by thumb and forefinger, every click on of the ratchet wheel a symphony for the discerning ear. This tactile dance, this connection to the mechanics, is a pleasure some aficionados can’t forsake. As we edge nearer to the top of the primary quarter of the twenty first century, manually wound watches persist and expertise a brand new surge in reputation, fueled by a resurgence in appreciation for hand-wound calibres.
Amongst these calibres, one motion has stood the check of time for over fifty years. It has powered quite a few watch manufacturers’ broad spectrum of creations, remaining a steadfast presence within the business. I’m speaking concerning the ETA/Peseux 7001, a motion with a storied legacy. Here’s a recap of its enduring saga.
A highway from Peseaux to ETA
Just like the Valjoux 7750, the ETA 2824 and ETA 2892, the 7001 is one other vital calibre built-in into the ETA-Swatch Group household because the conglomerate expanded through the Seventies and Eighties. The 7001 was initially created and produced by the Fabrique d’ébauches de Peseux, a motion maker primarily based in Peseux, within the Swiss canton of Neuchâtel.
The manufacturing facility was based by Charles Berner (1892-1951), the son of La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaking professor Paul Berner. Earlier than this, Berner helped set up and handle the Fabrique d’ébauches de Fleurier. Berner settled in Peseux in 1923, founding the manufacturing facility and transferring right into a constructing constructed a couple of years earlier by the Sandoz household, identified for his or her work with Tavannes and Cyma. Shortly after promoting it to Berner, Henry Sandoz & Fils arrange a brand new manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Berner developed his enterprise in Peseux, specializing in compact, oval, and tonneau-shaped actions, and over time, registered quite a few patents.
1933, Ebauches SA (then often called ETA) absorbed Peseux, although the latter continued to function independently. Francis Berner, son of founder Charles Berner, stayed throughout the firm for a few years after his father left in 1949 as a consequence of well being points. Sydney de Coulon turned president in 1951. By 1970, Peseux was reportedly producing about one million models yearly. Nonetheless, the Fabrique d’ébauches de Peseux was legally dissolved in 1979, with its operations taken over by the Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, which ultimately turned a part of ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse. The Peseux 7001, launched in 1971/72, had a outstanding run, with some sources mentioning that over 2 million models have been made. After 1985, it was produced by ETA with none vital modification till 2004, then rebranded because the ETA 7001 in 2011 when manufacturing was resumed, so there’s no shock it’s sometimes called the ETA/Peseux 7001.
The qualities of a slim workhorse
The ETA/Peseux 7001 is a small, hand-wound motion, measuring 23.3mm in diameter (10.5 lignes) and simply 2.5mm thick. Its compact measurement and simple but sturdy building have been essential elements in its swift rise to a status for reliability and adaptableness. The Seventies was an period earlier than outsized watches turned modern – when massive timepieces have been usually thought of unattractive, even vulgar, except worn by pilots. The 7001 discovered its area of interest, powering watches from a broad vary of manufacturers like Elgin, Paul Picot, Rado, Bucherer, Favre Leuba, Maurice Lacroix and Raymond Weil, to call only some. It even served extra prestigious names like Girard-Perregaux (cal. 100-840) and Common Genève because the calibre UG28, with an influence reserve module, for instance.
Regardless of the upheavals of the quartz disaster, the Peseux 7001 endured and advanced right into a staple. Many watchmakers continued to make use of it as a basis for his or her developments till its provides ultimately dwindled by ailing/good destiny bestowed by the Swatch Group. Like that of the ETA 7750, this motion’s legacy underscores the transformative interval in watchmaking historical past through the Eighties and past.
The ETA/Peseux 7001, a testomony to enduring design, featured 17 jewels and operated at a charge of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz frequency). It employed Incabloc for its anti-shock system, had a 42-hour energy reserve, and showcased central hours and minutes with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Key parts included an index regulator and a Swiss lever escapement.
Based on ETA technical sheets from 2011, the 7001 was constructed with brass mainplates and bridges – one for the escapement, one for the going prepare, and one for the mainspring and winding mechanism. These parts have been bevelled, and the motion utilized a Nivaflex barrel spring, a Glucydur stability wheel, and an Anachron hairspring. It boasted a center charge accuracy of +/-7 seconds per day and a nickel end. Because the ETA 7001, it was more likely to are available in varied grades, though particular particulars are elusive and level out to only one variant – high, regulated in three positions. ETA’s web site additionally signifies the existence of a model with an Etachron regulator.
Notably, the official ETA data on mechanical actions, beforehand accessible via a devoted B2B store web page, is not obtainable – an intriguing growth, contemplating it was accessible simply weeks in the past when our analysis into workhorse actions started.
Utilizations, elaborations and modifications
At first look, the Peseux 7001 may not appear significantly outstanding. Nonetheless, its true energy lay in its adaptability – a extremely modifiable “workhorse” that manufacturers might elevate via varied enhancements or use as is, which many did.
Throughout the Swatch Group, the motion loved a affluent life. Mido featured the 7001 in its Baroncelli assortment, Tissot in its Heritage Porto and Lisboa traces, and Longines utilized it because the calibre L396.2. Omega’s calibre 651, discovered within the De Ville collection, was additionally primarily based on the 7001. But, essentially the most notable transformation throughout the Swatch Group got here from Blancpain with its Villeret 7002 reference. Blancpain’s calibre 64-1, rising as a licensed chronometer, showcased a very reworked high plate and impeccable ending on each element, setting a regular for what the 7001 might obtain.
Past the Swatch Group’s lineup, the 7001 held a particular place for a lot of manufacturers aiming to craft dressy, classic-looking or vintage-inspired guide winding timepieces. These watches usually characteristic smaller case dimensions to keep up a balanced dial design. In bigger instances over 40mm, the small seconds subdial might look awkward, positioned too near the centre, already so at 40mm, as demonstrated when housed within the Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Flameante collection as calibre CYS2052. Nonetheless, the 7001 nonetheless discovered itself in bigger instances.
Take, for instance, the Bell & Ross Classic WWI. Aiming to create a watch that “bridged the hole between pocket watches and the wristwatches of the Nineteen Forties”, Bell & Ross housed the 7001 in a 41mm Argentium case. Whereas the running-second subdial overlaps the centre, the general design works remarkably effectively. Equally, the 7001-equipped 39mm sq. Bell & Ross BR S additionally achieved a delightful aesthetic, demonstrating the motion’s versatility and attraction in varied codecs.
The ETA Peseux 7001 discovered its approach into a formidable array of manufacturers. Baume & Mercier and Chronoswiss utilized this motion, whereas Montblanc employed the 7001 base for its calibre MB 23.01, which powers the Heritage Chronometrie Extremely Slim 38mm watches. Oris additionally leveraged the 7001, branding it as calibre 396 of their Artelier Hand Winding collection. The re-launched Vertex model opted for the 7001 for its M100 mannequin, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Peseux Open Coronary heart Restricted Version was powered by it, Louis Erard added its RE9 module to ETA 7001 to equip the Excellence Regulator collection that includes a regulator-style show and energy reserve indicator… to make a whole listing could be an unlimited activity.
Eberhard & Co. took the 7001 to a different stage with its calibre 896-1 to energy 8 Jours collection, extending the motion’s autonomy to eight days and incorporating an influence reserve indicator, and later for the Eberhard & Co. 8 Jours Grande Taille. Right here, the model has reworked the 7001 to incorporate its patented barrel and mainspring system: a single barrel with two overlapping mainsprings, totaling 1.55 meters.
In the meantime, Ball remodeled the 7001 right into a pair of automated actions. The RR1501 added day, date, and world time features, and the RR1502 included the identical options and a chronograph. Lately, younger manufacturers reminiscent of Baltic with its Prismic assortment and Furlan Marri with the Disco Volante benefited from this compact and skinny hand-wound motion to current vintage-inspired, slimline watches.
The model builder
For Nomos Glashütte, the 7001 motion was a cornerstone from the model’s revival in 1991 till 2005. This motion powered the early Tetra, Orion, Ludwig, and Tangente collections. Like many manufacturers earlier than it, Nomos made its personal modifications, progressively incorporating conventional Glashütte ending methods reminiscent of Glashütte stripes and sunburst patterns on the barrels. Round 1997, ETA requested that Nomos cease utilizing its title on the motion, prompting Nomos to rebrand the motion because the Nomos 1T by 2002.
Nomos changed the 7001’s plate and stability cock with gold-plated parts adorned in a method named after watchmaker Rainer Langeleist, often called Langeleist-Perlage. Essentially the most vital improve was incorporating the Triovis tremendous regulation system, which gave the ‘T’ within the 1T its title. The 1T additionally used a Nivarox hairspring, retained the Incabloc shock safety, and prolonged the facility reserve to 45 hours.
Nomos additional advanced this motion with the NOMOS Glashütte 1 TS, which added hacking seconds, the NOMOS 1 TSD with a date perform, and ultimately, the NOMOS 1 TSP that includes a three-quarter plate. After including an influence indicator to the 1T, Nomos lastly developed its personal in-house motion. The NOMOS Alpha, first launched within the Tangomat in 2005, retained a gear prepare just like the 7001. Regardless of adopting the Glashütte three-quarter plate design and updating parts and ending, the Alpha clearly shared its DNA with the 7001. One can say that 7001 nonetheless is without doubt one of the important parts for Nomos Glashütte’s operations.
The bottom for distinctive creativity
Talking of ending, the ETA 7001 may not be an “ugly duckling,” however the transformations some watchmakers have wrought upon this seemingly “pedestrian” calibre are genuinely astonishing. When Ming unveiled its 27.01 assortment, it launched the 7001.M1 calibre – a masterpiece redesigned by Ming and produced by Schwarz Etienne. This model was extensively skeletonized, providing a full view of the intricate gears beneath. On the time of launch, Ming emphasised that the unique 7001 motion had been closely reworked, retaining solely the gear prepare and escapement. The bridges and plates have been fully remade, that includes a stable baseplate with higher bridges opened as much as showcase the transferring parts.
One other outstanding modifier and imaginative decorator of the 7001 motion is Michiel Holthinrichs from the Netherlands, additionally famend for utilizing a 3D printer to make watch case elements. The 7001 actions he decorates emerge from his workshops in varied elaborated kinds, each fascinating and distinct. Holthinrichs Watches reworks and refinishes these actions “to match the model’s design language and to focus closely on conventional ending methods,” all whereas enhancing efficiency.
If we delve deeper into this topic, we will admire the practically unrecognizable calibre 7001 after thorough modification and hand ornament by South Korean watchmaker Minhoon Yoo for his inaugural Carved Piece.
Others, like Ludovic Ballouard, pushed the Peseux 7001 to its limits, growing extremely advanced and finely adorned actions on its base. Check out Ballouard’s Upside Down and Half Time watches, each exhibiting bits and items of the Peseux, whereas having extremely advanced shows. These diversifications but once more spotlight the 7001’s capability for modification and its enduring relevance within the (unbiased) watchmaking business.
The successor, the LJP D100
Michiel Holthinrichs and others have been clever to safe the NOS 7001 actions for his or her creations, however everyone knows the sources are dwindling. As with different fashionable mechanical ETA mechanisms which might be not obtainable from the producer, a substitute has been launched. Enter the D100 from Manufacture La Joux-Perret, launched in 2023.
The D100 mirrors the features, dimensions and working frequency of the 7001 and, like the unique, lacks the hacking seconds characteristic. Nonetheless, it boasts an improved energy reserve of fifty hours. La Joux-Perret provides three variations of this motion. The Commonplace A001 is undecorated and adjusted in three positions. The soigné A011 options Geneva stripes, diamond chamfers, and adjustment in 4 positions. The soigné A012, the top-of-the-line model, contains all of the A011’s options with the addition of blued screws. Though it’s too early to say if D100 can be as lauded as its ETA/Peseaux inspiration, it’s good to know that such an choice exists and there’s a successor.
Concluding notes
After spending fairly a while on the topic, there isn’t any hesitation, no ifs or buts about it – the basic manually wound ETA/Peseaux 7001 motion was the lifeline, the heartbeat, and infrequently absolutely the saviour for numerous manufacturers within the watchmaking world, particularly the smaller ones. The easy, dependable 7001, a stalwart survivor via many years of horological turmoil, stood tall as a beacon of basic aesthetics and high quality that few different mass-produced actions might even dream of providing.
This little engineering marvel didn’t simply stand the check of time; it danced via it, inspiring a brand new era of unbiased watchmakers to push boundaries, experiment, and create. Essential prior to now, prominently seen within the current, and with a laser-focused (or 3D-printed) eye on the longer term, the 7001 is a legend. It has earned, and not using a shadow of a doubt, its rightful place within the motion’s corridor of fame.