Somewhat over a 12 months in the past, Lebond Watches unveiled its inaugural Siza mannequin to the general public. The Barcelonian model works with well-known architects to create every one’s tackle a watch. After world-famous architect Álvaro Siza was the primary to take action, the model’s second effort debuted earlier this 12 months. This time, Lebond founder Asier Mateo labored with famend Portuguese architect Eduardo Souto de Moura to develop his idea of what a wristwatch might be, leading to a minimalist tackle the traditional driver’s watch. I had an opportunity to go hands-on with the 2 variations that got here out.
In a few of the articles I’ve written through the years, I’ve repeatedly said I’m not a lot of a purist in the case of watches. Nonetheless, in the case of designers, I firmly consider that they’re specialists. Not each designer can design something. After working in design for nearly 20 years, I drastically respect designers who really perceive their craft. Whether or not they design buildings, typefaces, watches, or no matter else, what makes them nice at their jobs is knowing the context wherein their designs match. Whereas type and performance are equally necessary facets, the context usually creates the center of the story the viewers connects to.
Design is all about context
It takes time to know the context of a design self-discipline. After that, it takes extra time to develop designs to see how they work, examine extra, and check out once more. Along with time spent, the efforts somebody places in typically lead to a greater understanding and higher designs. Basically, I’m advocating specialist designers, which is hardly a purist take for those who ask me. However that doesn’t imply I’m in opposition to designers from totally different disciplines having a go at one thing totally different, even whether it is one thing as particular as designing a watch.
Stunning concepts usually come from individuals who haven’t been cultivated by the context wherein they’ve labored for a very long time. Nice issues can occur for those who use their design ideas and create the proper context wherein they will come to life.
It’s this concept that led to the founding of Lebond Watches. The model from Barcelona collaborates with well-known architects to develop new, stunning takes on watch design. So, what occurs for those who let an architect design a watch? The primary consequence was the Lebond Siza, a watch conceptualized by well-known Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza. He used his work — particularly, the Leça Swimming Pool accomplished in 1966 — because the inspiration for the watch’s case. As I defined in my hands-on evaluation, the watch was surprisingly snug regardless of its outstanding form and building. I additionally drastically appreciated it as a design object imbued with Álvaro Siza’s story.
Experiencing the Lebond Souto Moura
The second mannequin from Lebond is the Souto Moura. In March, I wrote the introduction article that defined the concept behind the watch and its designer. If you’re within the full backstory, I counsel you learn that article. On this one, I want to deal with the hands-on expertise. However that additionally wants a little bit of introduction. The well-known Portuguese architect Eduardo Souto de Moura designed the brand new Lebond watch. He gained the celebrated Pritzker Structure Prize in 2011 and is legendary the world over for his minimalist creations.
This time, Souto de Moura determined to make use of his minimalist type to create a traditional driver’s watch. He wished it to be as slim as doable, and it was as much as Lebond’s Asier Mateo to make that come to life in a watch that would additionally function a snug each day wearer. It has resulted within the Lebond Souto Moura, a light-weight timepiece with a 38.5mm Grade 5 titanium case, a micro-sanded end, and an anti-fingerprint coating.
As it’s a round case with out lugs, it’s additionally 38.5mm lengthy, and it’s a slim 7.6mm thick, together with the double-domed sapphire crystal. Because of the absence of actual lugs, the 18mm strap attaches by way of T-bars to the underside of the case.
Two variations of the Lebond Souto Moura
Lebond has mixed the case with two dial choices. The primary is the one within the Authentic Version, which is lacquered gentle beige (RAL 9001) with lacquered matte black numerals and markers. Complementing it is a navy Nappa leather-based strap with a titanium deployment clasp matching the case. The second model is the Darkish Version, which contains a lacquered matte grey dial with black numerals and markers. It’s matched with a black Nappa leather-based strap for a correct stealthy look.
Straight out of the spectacular packaging, these watches look fully totally different. Throughout my time with them, I gravitated extra towards the Authentic Version, and I believe the lighter colours and summer season season performed a giant half in that. As each are driver’s watches, the dial, motion, and crown all sit at a 30° angle. It’s a design based mostly on the precept of having the ability to learn the time whereas driving with one’s left hand on the steering wheel.
Souto de Moura mixed that traditional concept along with his signature minimalist type. The aspect that instantly catches the attention is the massive hour marker at 12 o’clock mixed with a a lot smaller Arabic numeral “2” to type the “12” as an necessary reference level on the dial. The markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock are notably smaller, with shorter and thinner traces for each 5 minutes and dots for the person minutes in between.
A date window that instigated debate
Positioned subsequent to the marker at 3 o’clock, you discover a date window. It’s positioned quite far inward, and never having it might have given the dial extra steadiness. I do know Souto de Moura made it a part of the look ahead to sensible causes, which is completely comprehensible, however the place is debatable. Moreover, the date disc is white on each variations, making it stand out, particularly on the Darkish Version.
Utilizing color-matched date discs may need led to higher integration and a extra balanced design. One other aspect that I wasn’t certain about was the handset. The size distinction between the hour and the minute hand is big. Maybe a barely longer hour hand would have regarded a bit higher. General, although, the dials have a minimalist, simple design with a unusual twist together with the case, the supplies, and the colours.
If you happen to flip the watch round, you’re going to get a very good view of the motion and the way the strap items hook up with the case. The motion is seen because of a sapphire window graced with Eduardo Souto de Moura’s signature. Each watches are powered by the automated ETA 2892-2, which operates at 28,800vph, has 21 jewels, and gives as much as a 50-hour energy reserve.
The motion is completed neatly with blued screws, Geneva stripes, and perlage. Along with Souto de Moura’s signature within the heart, one can find the person variety of the watch engraved on the sting of the case again.
Carrying the Lebond Souto Moura
This brings us to sporting the watches. As I stated in my introduction article, I like their type, however they need to even be wearable to win me over as a correct each day watch. I had hoped that this might occur as a result of the Lebond Siza was very simple to put on regardless of its odd-shaped case.
The very first thing that stands out is that the watches are featherlight. They weigh solely 46 grams, which is impressively gentle however one way or the other matches the aesthetic completely. Although not essentially associated, the mix of the minimalist design and the low weight feels prefer it was meant to be.
One other factor that stands out is the dimensions. At 38.5mm, it’s excellent for varied wrists. As soon as I strapped the Authentic Version to mine, it felt proper at dwelling. The tremendous snug strap additionally performed a giant half in that. The leather-based is supple, and the titanium clasp is tremendous gentle and straightforward to make use of. Plus, it feels very properly made.
All these components are nice proof that Asier Mateo places nice effort into creating one of the best watches doable. I have to say that it’s spectacular to see how properly the person parts and the watch as a complete are constructed. Mateo has clearly not minimize corners right here.
Two totally different watches for various events
As soon as on the wrist, the Authentic Version wears like a allure. I wore it for roughly every week and combined it up with another watches that had been in for evaluation. However I wore the Souto Moura watch quite a bit in comparison with the others as a result of it completely suited the hotter climate. Due to its lightness, snug match, and colours, it was the right alternative.
As a consequence of its darker colours, the Darkish Version has much less direct visible impression than the Authentic Version. It does match the mould of a designer’s watch a bit extra, and it’s a trendy one. I might see myself sporting it with an all-black outfit, and it might look nice. Virtually talking, it was additionally enjoyable to see the rotated dial. I discovered that it’s not simply helpful for studying the time when your arms are on a steering wheel. Whereas engaged on articles on my laptop computer, I might additionally simply learn the time with my arms on the keyboard. Because it seems, the angle is ideal for that too.
Last ideas on the Lebond Souto Moura
The one factor that left me considerably not sure was the dial’s extraordinarily minimal look. It has a pleasant little twist with the “12” marker, however aside from that, it’s fairly simple. That is one thing that comes with minimalist design, after all, however that’s why it might probably profit from a little bit of visible sparkle to make it stand out. Whereas the rotation of the dial is a pleasant twist, it doesn’t change the presence. Nonetheless, I had an absolute blast sporting each watches and most well-liked the Authentic Version.
With the Lebond Souto Moura, Asier Mateo reveals as soon as once more that he completely understands tips on how to take a artistic concept from a collaborative companion and switch it into an extremely well-executed watch. At €2,700 earlier than taxes, this watch actually isn’t low-cost, however the supplies, construct high quality, and an unbelievable eye for element make it a standout effort. On prime of that, even the packaging reveals that is really a labor of affection.
No, this isn’t a watch for everybody, and that’s wonderful. Lebond will not be within the enterprise of making watches for everybody. The model focuses on individuals who love a watch designed by distinguished architects. That may be a area of interest, however I’m satisfied Mateo will discover more and more extra followers in it. I, for one, can’t wait to see the model’s third and fourth fashions as follow-ups to the outstanding Lebond Souto Moura.
For extra info, go to the official Lebond web site.
