It’s no shock that I’m a fan of the Doxa Sub line of watches. My first new Swiss-made watch was a Doxa, although it was not one of many iconic cushion-cased designs. At this time, I’ll undergo 4 of Doxa’s key dive-watch choices and hopefully make it easier to decide which one is best for you.
When trying by Doxa’s catalog with a good friend who’s new to watches the opposite day, I seen how confused he obtained. It’s comprehensible as a result of Doxa’s naming conventions don’t at all times make sense. Why, for instance, is the 1,200m-rated dive watch referred to as the 300T? So, for the sake of readability, I’m going to briefly run by 4 of the model’s hottest watches and the deserves of every. One factor value noting is that, in contrast to many different manufacturers, there’s little distinction between these 4 watches within the motion division. All of them will home both an ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1. The one vital distinction is that the top-of-the-line Sub 300 comes with a COSC-certified motion, that means it should run inside -4 to +6 seconds a day.
Picture: Thillier Time
Doxa Sub ancestors
My first new Swiss-made watch was a Doxa Sub 200. However whereas a lot of our readers are accustomed to among the historical past of Doxa’s cushion-cased designs, some could also be unfamiliar with the very first dive watch the model launched, which is what impressed the Sub 200 of at present.
You see, as I’ve famous earlier than, again within the mid-Nineteen Sixties, Doxa needed to make a dive watch to compete with different manufacturers that already produced watches for the game. On the time, diving was rising in recognition. Rolex already had the Submariner, Blancpain had the Fifty Fathoms, and Zodiac had the Sea Wolf. Between the early Fifties when these watches debuted and the mid-’60s, many different choices had develop into out there too.
Credit score: Analog:Shift
A look ahead to the occasions
Earlier than releasing the Sub 300, Doxa experimented with a dive-watch design. This watch was the “Shark-Hunter” ref. 11804, and the assumption is that it got here out in 1963, 4 years earlier than the Sub 300. The Doxa 11804 had a lot in frequent with the Eberhard Scafograf and in addition shared some resemblance to the Omega Seamaster 300 of the time. This was as a result of it shared the same case design with lovely lyre lugs. The idea is that each one three watches shared the identical case.
The 11804 had a 300m water resistance score regardless of having a push-pull crown. The fashionable Doxa Sub 200 is predicated on this 1963 design. However though Doxa had its standard dive watch, the model had daring ambitions to make a devoted instrument that included a no-decompression scale on the bezel. Quick-forward to 1967, and Doxa launched the Sub 300, which might develop into the model’s icon.
Doxa Sub 200 — The entry-level king
This brings me to the primary watch we’ll have a look at at present, Doxa’s entry-level Sub 200 (no T). This watch, as I famous additional up, is predicated on Doxa’s first foray into the world of dive watches. It’s a much more normal design with an elapsed-time bezel and a comparatively sparse dial with utilized markers aside from the date at 3 o’clock. Doxa nailed some key particulars right here, together with the easy two strains of textual content denoting the mannequin and model names. The opposite factor the model obtained “proper” was the typeface, even all the way down to the numerals on the date disc.
The Doxa Sub 200 was a pre-COVID launch, and I believe this reveals. The heavy use of fake patina and the dearth of one-minute markers on the bezel meant that I ultimately obtained bored with this design and bought the watch. However with a 42mm case that appears like 40mm due to a brief 46mm lug-to-lug, this Doxa Sub 200 wears very nicely. The 200m depth score is a lot, and whereas the 13.8mm thickness is important, a lot of that’s because of the domed sapphire crystal. The lugs do have an annoying (although very vintage-like) 19mm spacing. All in all, although, at €1,150 on a bracelet, the Doxa Sub 200 is a good entry-level Swiss dive watch, even when it has a number of much less fascinating attributes. However, due to among the design selections, my suggestion goes to our subsequent candidate.
Doxa Sub 200T — The mid-sized newcomer
Doxa’s new Sub 200T is a gorgeous proposition. It shares most of the elementary specs of the Sub 200 above. This features a strong 200m water resistance score, a screw-down crown, a screw-in case again, and a Swiss computerized ETA 2824-2 or equal Sellita caliber. For under a slight bump in value, you additionally end up shopping for your method into the enduring cushion-cased design that made the unique Doxa Sub 300 well-known upon its launch in 1967.
The cushion form means this 39mm watch has only a 41.5mm lug-to-lug! This makes it put on fairly small. For comparability, I discover it feels and appears barely smaller on the wrist than the Tudor Black Bay 54, which is a 37mm dive watch. At 10.7mm thick, the Sub 200T can also be refreshingly slim.
Sized to perfection…nearly
In addition to the enduring cushion-cased design, shrunken hour hand, and no-deco bezel, the Doxa Sub 200T additionally offers an array of dial colours. Sure, the Doxa Sub 200 additionally offers colours, however the 200Ts include extra white-lume choices! I’m at the moment eying the Doxa Sub 200T in Divingstar yellow with a level of lust.
The Sub 200T is an ideal Doxa look ahead to these of us after a mid-sized choice. It’s my number-one choose on the bracelet. The 18mm lug spacing is a typical measurement (for costume watches), even when it’s a bit small for my tastes. I’d desire a 20mm lug opening with this case. Regardless, at €1,590 on a bracelet, that is the choice I’d go for.
Doxa Sub 300T — The daring brute
For these of us who just like the rugged appeal of a Sinn dive watch, a burly chronograph, or maybe an outsized Seiko, there can be a lot to seek out interesting concerning the Doxa Sub 300T. That is the value-rich providing within the Doxa Sub steady. Offering a whopping 1,200m depth score, a helium escape valve, and flat sapphire crystal, the 300T is a really trendy watch. The unique 300T was generally known as the Conquistador, and it was a cutting-edge dive watch within the late Nineteen Sixties.
The Doxa Sub 300T has a 42.5mm case with a brief 44.5mm lug-to-lug and a 13.65mm profile. The bezel contains a good portion of that final measurement, making this watch feel and appear fairly thick on the wrist.
How to consider the Sub 300T
That is the grippiest bezel I’ve ever interacted with. If the Sub 300 is Doxa’s reply to the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster, this Sub 300T is the Sea-Dweller or Planet Ocean equal. Additionally, you will discover that the Doxa Sub 300T feels chunkier than the 13.65mm measurement would recommend. I attribute this to the heft and weight of the watch.
It should be the seals or one thing, however it does really feel loads chunkier than any of the opposite Doxas on our listing at present. This offers a stage of assuredness. Just like the Doxa Sub 300 I’m about to speak about, the Doxa Sub 300T provides a 20mm lug spacing, making it extremely adaptable to totally different strap combos. Inside ticks a Sellita SW200-1 or ETA 2824-2. At €1,990 on a beads-of-rice bracelet, the 300T offers you plenty of nice specs for the cash for those who like a beefy watch.
Doxa Sub 300 — The traditional
For a few of us, solely the unique (re-edition) will do. The Sub 300 is the Doxa. The present Sub 300 is a devoted re-edition of the unique from 1967 (bar some modifications to specs and dial font). The Doxa Sub 300 debuted in 1967 and offered the distinctive design ethos that formed the model to the trendy day.
From the tiny hour hand to the no-deco bezel and the offset textual content, every thing we affiliate with Doxa dive watches began with the Sub 300. It’s additionally the one watch on this article to deal with a COSC-certified SW200-1 or ETA 2824-2 caliber.
Doxa, for those who’re listening…
This watch has a 42.5mm case diameter and a 45mm lug-to-lug, making it equal in width however barely longer than the 300T. Thickness-wise, this mannequin measures 13.4mm, however it feels significantly slimmer than the 300T as a result of the domed sapphire glass makes up a lot of that. And it’s right here the place I’ve my first gripe with this watch. The sapphire crystal is so domed that it impacts studying the time with this watch underwater. I’ve in contrast it to a Nineteen Sixties unique, which was much less domed, so it’s one thing I’d prefer to see Doxa change in a producing replace.
As talked about within the part on the 300T, the Sub 300 has a 20mm lug spacing, so strap selections can be a cinch. The lume, although, is my subsequent concern with this watch. Doxa, for those who’re studying this, beef up the lume software on this watch, please! At €2,790 on a bracelet, that is the most costly watch right here, however that may be a cheap value of entry for an iconic with a historical past as wealthy because the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster 300.
Concluding ideas
To conclude, I believe that anybody captivated with dive watches and even instrument watches on the whole ought to look into Doxa. The nice factor is, with so many colorways, sizes, and value factors, there are many choices for everybody. As I stated earlier on this story, I’m leaning towards a yellow Doxa Sub 200T on the bracelet.
However what do you assume, Fratelli? When you had been to purchase one, what Doxa Sub (together with coloration) would you get? And why? I stay up for studying your selections within the feedback.
