One other Friday, one other record! This week, we take a look at 5 gents’s GMT watches that stand out due to their distinguished presence. These aren’t your typical Rolex GMT-Grasp-influenced timepieces. No, this can be a record of the extra classical-looking GMTs, multi-time-zone/traveler’s watches that fly just a little extra underneath the radar. So don’t anticipate any colourful rotating bezels with giant numerals right here! You in all probability have an concept of the place we’re going with this, so let’s get into it.
Simply permit me to make a couple of fast remarks earlier than we unveil our 5 picks. We’re not searching for traditional worldtimers or dual-time watches with sub-dials. Whereas these can supply fairly a distinguished look certainly, we wished to seek out watches that combine the second time-zone scale and a central GMT hand in a approach that doesn’t alter the fashionable presence of a traditional wristwatch. Additionally, whereas I’ll discuss with them as “gents’s GMTs,” that’s actually to not say that girls can’t get pleasure from or put on them too! Quite the opposite, generally a gents’ watch can look implausible on a girl’s wrist. Now, with these two issues out of the best way, let’s go!
Picture: Watch Clicker
Grand Seiko Class SBGM221
Our first decide is the traditional Grand Seiko SBGM221. It’s a watch that our Fratello colleague Gerard has wished so as to add to his assortment for some time, and we fully perceive why. There’s a traditional, understated presence to this SBGM221 that’s laborious to withstand. The watch has a 39.5mm stainless-steel case with a 13.7mm thickness and a 46.9mm lug-to-lug. It makes for a modestly sized GMT with a fantastic ivory-colored dial and a 24-hour scale positioned on the within of the superbly completed indices. The one trace of additional coloration comes within the type of the brief, blued GMT hand, and there’s a properly framed date window at 3 o’clock.
The SBGM221 runs on Grand Seiko’s in-house 9S66 caliber. This computerized motion operates at a 28,800vph frequency, presents 72 hours of energy reserve, and has an accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. This really is an ideal instance of a gentleman’s GMT. It’s a subtle and classically styled traveler’s watch that simply appears so good. Whereas the watch comes on a brown crocodile strap, it appears superior on a wide range of different straps too. I’d attempt it on a lightweight grey nubuck or a lightweight blue suede strap throughout summer time after which change to a darker strap when the climate will get colder. This is without doubt one of the many Grand Seiko GMTs that we may have chosen for this record. However a closing purpose in addition to the traditional type, wonderful particulars, and nice motion is its €5,000 value. It makes this Grand Seiko SBGM221 a implausible first decide.
Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT
Our second decide is the Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT. To be extra particular, it’s the second model of the watch, which got here out earlier this 12 months. After final 12 months’s profitable black-dial restricted version, the model launched a follow-up that appears fairly totally different. The watch incorporates a spherical 38mm stainless-steel case that’s 11.9mm thick and 43.7mm from lug to lug. Regardless of these modest dimensions, the watch has loads of wrist presence, particularly on the model’s Oyster-style Bader bracelet.
The case is mixed with a sand-colored dial holding utilized markers crammed with “Previous Radium” Tremendous-LumiNova and a khaki-green 24-hour GMT scale on the dial’s periphery. To match the GMT scale, the handset features a khaki-green-tipped GMT hand that brings the general look collectively very properly. In comparison with the primary model, this new Dune GMT is toned down and has a trendy presence that makes it an important match for various events. Contained in the case, you’ll discover a Sellita SW330-2 motion. This computerized GMT caliber operates at 28,800vph, has 25 jewels, and supplies 56 hours of energy reserve.
An ideal mixture of modern-day specs and classic styling
The Sellita SW330-2 is a dependable powertrain for this vintage-inspired GMT. And it’s the mix of modern-day specs and vintage-inspired appears that makes this such a tempting providing. Whereas I really like the colourful nature of the earlier model, I’ve to say that this new colorway brings a sure stylishness and serenity to the design.
It makes this €1,465 Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT an important second decide for this record of gents’s GMT watches. However if you happen to desire the look of it on a leather-based or canvas strap, it is possible for you to to avoid wasting €200, making this watch an reasonably priced alternative in comparison with most different entries on this record.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
Our third decide is the much-praised Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante from Parmigiani Fleurier. I used to be fortunate sufficient to check out fairly a couple of watches from the Tonda PF line lately, and it’s such a powerful assortment when it comes to design and high quality. However the Tonda PF collection can also be an important show of horological wizardry. Whereas my favourite model is the lately launched Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena, the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante can also be merely sensible. This watch combines the attribute Tonda PF design with a one-of-a-kind GMT Rattrapante complication, leading to an ideal and classy gents’s GMT.
The watch has a 40mm by 10.7mm stainless-steel case with the Tonda’s attribute teardrop lugs and knurled bezel. It homes the model’s caliber PF051 created by sister firm Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. The automated motion incorporates a distinctive split-GMT perform. Simply wanting on the watch in its regular mode, you’ll suppose that it merely reveals the time in hours and minutes. However if you happen to press the pusher at 8 o’clock, you’ll be able to alter the silver hour hand to the native time.
With each push of the button, the hand strikes ahead one hour. When that occurs, a rose gold hand reveals itself to show the house time. So long as you’re in several time zones, the watch shows each the native and residential time. When you get again dwelling, a easy push of the rose gold button within the crown will ship the travel-time hand flying again on high of the rose gold hour hand. I may go on for a while about every part that makes this CHF 28,500 Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante particular. Sadly, although, we don’t have the house to provide it all of the credit score it deserves and should transfer on. For an in-depth article, learn Sky’s evaluate from 2022 right here.
Chopard L.U.C GMT One Black
One other standout is the Chopard L.U.C GMT One Black. Its stealthy black aesthetic fully differs from our earlier decide, nevertheless it’s no much less fashionable due to it. The trick to this GMT is that it’d look stealthy at first, however you’ll discover many attention-grabbing particulars when you zoom in. The watch was launched in 2021 and incorporates a 42mm ceramized Grade 5 titanium case that’s 11.71mm thick. Matching that case is a hand-finished black dial with a vertical satin end. It additionally incorporates a circular-grained chapter ring with a mix of spearhead-shaped indices and numerals in white Tremendous-LumiNova and a big date window at 6 o’clock.
Positioned on the skin of the chapter ring, you’ll discover the 24-hour GMT disc in mild grey and black. Whereas the ring does make a distinction between the day and night time with the 2 shades, all of it matches the final stealthy theme. It’s a glance additional enhanced by the black handset crammed with white Tremendous-LumiNova. The good factor is that there isn’t any doubt about what every hand shows, together with the GMT hand, which often will get a contrasting coloration. On this case, the form alone tells the story.
The in-house L.U.C 01.10-L caliber
The watch is powered by the model’s in-house L.U.C 01.10-L caliber. The automated COSC-certified motion operates at 28,800vph and presents 60 hours of energy reserve. Working the motion is straightforward due to the 2 crowns. The higher one enables you to set the central time and date show. The decrease crown controls the GMT perform by transferring the 24-hour ring counterclockwise one hour at a time. The kicker is that the motion additionally appears stealthy behind a tinted sapphire crystal, which inserts the watch’s total theme. Chopard produced 250 items of the L.U.C GMT One Black, every with a value of €14,100.
Lorca Mannequin No.1 GMT
Our final decide is the debut launch from New York-based microbrand Lorca, the Mannequin No.1 GMT. This timepiece walks the effective line between a trendy retro-inspired day by day wearer and a extra utilitarian GMT flawlessly. It’s the type of watch that can have you ever taking a look at it time and time once more to find new particulars. The Mannequin No.1 GMT is actually not your common fixed-bezel GMT. When you may put it in that class due to its options, the design elevates it to a good-looking on a regular basis watch that feels at dwelling in a wide range of totally different conditions.
The watch has a 36mm stainless case with a barely bigger 37mm bezel, an 11.2mm thickness, and a 44mm lug-to-lug. Due to the flat bezel and the substantial dial aperture, the watch does put on just a little bigger than the dimensions would possibly recommend. Plus, the look of the watch on the snug metal bracelet provides some visible mass to the general image.
The watch is offered with a black or silver dial, and each variations really feel fully totally different. The black dial is extra about distinction, whereas the silver dial offers off a softer total picture. Nacho additionally famous extra refined variations in his evaluate, exhibiting that Lorca founder Jesse Marchant has an important eye for element.
Flawless integration of the GMT perform
Contained in the case, you’ll discover the Soprod caliber C125. This computerized motion operates at a 28,800vph frequency, has 42 hours of energy reserve, and presents a powerful accuracy of ±4 seconds per day. It’s a succesful energy supply for Lorca’s superbly styled first effort, an ideal gents’s GMT. It is a versatile watch that works effectively on the bracelet and varied straps. After attempting the watch on, I can say that the magic of the Mannequin No.1 GMT is that it looks like an important elegant day by day watch first and a GMT watch second. Its flawless integration of the GMT perform within the total design makes this US$1,750 Lorca Mannequin No.1 an important and reasonably priced closing decide for this record.
Remaining ideas on our record of gents’s GMTs
There you will have it — a listing of not-so-obvious GMT watches that deliver one thing totally different to the desk. After all, our “gents’s GMT” label is just a little tongue-in-cheek approach of describing these 5 watches as fashionable timepieces that break the Rolex-inspired mildew. However as at all times, we’d love to listen to about your favourite watches that might qualify for this record. Please share them within the feedback under. Lastly, as at all times, we’ll see you subsequent week for an additional record.
