Why so critical…? This was in some way the thought Richard Benc had in thoughts when he determined, in 2020, to create his watch model, Studio Underd0g. From there, the model managed to assemble the eye of watch fanatics with its enjoyable, vibrant watches at accessible costs – take into consideration an April Idiot’s joke turning into a actuality, or a chronograph with pizza-inspired dial… Extra not too long ago, Studio Underd0g went a number of steps up by saying a collaboration with high-end indie watchmaker H. Moser, revealing Mission Ardour. Alongside a perpetual calendar was Underd0g’s watch, a Swiss-powered monopusher chronograph saying the launch of the 03SERIES. This now turns into a stand-alone assortment, with the introduction of the brand new Studio Underd0g Salm0n.
Studio Underd0g began with the 01SERIES, a compact, actually accessible and interesting chronograph powered by a hand-wound Seagull ST-1901 (a Chinese language clone of the Venus 175). A number of variations could be carried out, all flying like sizzling truffles. Final 12 months, the micro-brand launched its second watch, the Discipline 02SERIES, as soon as once more a playful, brightly-coloured tackle a watchmaking traditional this time powered by a Swiss hand-wound Sellita motion. Now it’s time for the 03SERIES to completely materialize, after having been teased by a collaboration with H. Moser & Cie – an sudden staff that made fairly some noise throughout Geneva Watch Days 2024.
A step up in specs and perceived high quality, the Monopusher 03SERIES retains the acquainted look of the 01SERIES with an upgraded motion, however doesn’t lose the light-hearted creativity that has been key for the model since its creation. So, we’re a salmon monopusher chronograph… sounds fairly critical, proper. Nicely, sure and no. As Richard Benc explains, “Each respected model should have a salmon dial watch of their product assortment in the event that they want to be taken significantly.” However Benc had so as to add its playful twist. So as a substitute of a traditional pink-gold-toned dial, Underd0g’s imaginative and prescient of a salmon watch takes inspiration from a salmon fillet. I’ll come again on that in a couple of.
Let’s begin with the case, because the Monopusher 03SERIES retains the qualities of the inaugural assortment with a compact metal case, measuring 38.5mm in diameter, 13.6mm in thickness and 44.5mm lug-to-lug. It’s topped by a double-domed sapphire crystal and contains a see-through caseback to see what’s inside, a brand new Swiss motion. It’s easy, well-proportioned and traditional.
What’s far much less traditional is the dial. As mentioned, the idea of a salmon dial has been pushed to a different stage right here. The centre of the dial, with its grained texture, emulates the shimmering pores and skin of the fish with its greyish gradient impact. The various measurement and color of the sub-dials are offset by the branding and motion particulars, which permits the central chronograph seconds hand to go via uninterrupted. The true salmon color is used for the sunray decrease dial with a metallic end, displaying a tachymeter scale and the outsized 30-minute counter.
What makes this Studio Underd0g Salm0n in comparison with the earlier chronographs is the motion. From the Seagull discovered within the 01SERIES the model now strikes to a hand-wound Swiss Sellita SW510 within the 03SERIES. This cam-operated monopusher chronograph shares its base structure with the Valjoux 7750 however brings a stable 63-hour energy reserve. The big bridge on high has been particularly embellished with ruthenium coating for an anthracite color.
This new watch, assembled in Nice Britain, is worn on an Epsom Calfskin strap made by The Strap Tailor. Additionally, Studio Underd0g partnered with Horologium who will perform a full impartial QC inspection on all watches earlier than they’re shipped out from the UK. The method contains demagnetisation, accuracy/charge overview (3 positions) and regulation wherever mandatory. It comes with a 2-year guarantee.
The Studio Underd0g Salm0n Monopusher Chronograph will likely be made out there for pre-order on the seventeenth of September 2024, throughout a 9-hour window (between 3PM and 12AM BST) through underd0g.com. All orders positioned throughout this window will likely be assured a watch. The primary 400 watches will likely be delivered in October 2024, with any additional orders to be delivered from January 2025. It’s priced at EUR 1,800, GBP 1,700 or USD 2,000.
