It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for one more installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we are going to deal with two vintage-inspired dive watches from 2024. The Doxa Sub 200T got here out this previous spring, whereas the Oris Divers Date debuted simply final week. Each have fun the model of classic divers from bygone eras. The brand-new Oris Divers Date hyperlinks again to the mid-Nineteen Sixties, and the Doxa Sub 200T takes after its greater brother from a number of years later. Which can come out on prime? That’s as much as you!
When Doxa unveiled the Sub 200T, the brand new mannequin acquired virtually common reward. This smaller and thinner model of the legendary Sub 300(T) is a brilliant addition to the lineup for individuals who recognize the ultra-recognizable model however crave a extra wearable watch with the identical seems. On prime of that, at €1,590 on a bracelet, the Sub 200T is €400 cheaper than the Sub 300T and a complete €1,200 lower than the Sub 300. How’s that for a tempting proposition? The brand new Oris Divers Date is an up to date model of the model’s in style Divers Sixty-5. Oris applied a string of updates to make this new Divers Date a fantastic fashionable model of its predecessor. And regardless of the updates, Oris determined to stay to the €2,450 worth. Let’s discover out which of those two watches will declare the victory at this time.
Final week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
However earlier than we get into this week’s showdown, let’s check out final week’s battle of luxurious pilot’s chronographs. In a really shut match that might have gone both method, the Blancpain Air Command ended up taking the win. The titanium Air Command acquired 51% of your votes, leaving the Breguet with 49%. It’s a end result that was mirrored within the feedback. Whereas many individuals love the story and the design of the Kind XX, the date window is a dealbreaker for others. Relating to the Blancpain, the foggy backstory and the titanium and inexperienced execution have been, apparently, not your favourite facets. Nonetheless, the watch nonetheless took the win in the long run, making it the champion of retro luxurious pilot’s chronographs. However that’s sufficient about final week’s battle; over to Jorg and Mike!
Jorg: Oris Divers Date
The Oris Divers Sixty-5 has lengthy been a favourite of mine. With the Divers Sixty-5 12H Calibre 400, the Chronos Restricted Version, and the Momotaro Restricted Version, the model from Hölstein created a sequence of thrilling variations. However whereas these have been my favourite variations, general, I’d say that the Divers Sixty-5 has been my favourite line of watches throughout the Oris assortment. There’s a common enchantment to it that makes the Divers Sixty-5 and the brand new Divers Date very likable.
It’s an enchantment that should really feel acquainted to our readers and to you as nicely, Mike. The good success of the Divers Sixty-5 is about a lot greater than the restricted editions the model created. Moderately, its success comes all the way down to a mixture of things.
From the aesthetics impressed by the model’s traditional Nineteen Sixties divers to the modern-day execution and the pleasant worth, a number of issues contribute to the mannequin’s nice success. It has all the time been a go-to choose across the €2K mark. As such, it has additionally been a fantastic entry level into the world of luxurious watches for many individuals.
From the Divers Sixty-5 to the Divers Date
Oris retains the hits coming with the brand new Divers Date. The brand new watch affords some superb updates in comparison with the Divers Sixty-5. Granted, the identify shouldn’t be considered one of them, though it matches the watch’s common enchantment. If you happen to don’t just like the aesthetic, you most likely don’t like dive watches. In fact, I’m having a little bit of enjoyable, Mike, however you perceive what I’m getting at. The Divers Date matches that common mould of dive watches from a bygone period. Nonetheless, it has sufficient allure and identification for folks to right away acknowledge it as an Oris Divers mannequin.
Let’s overview the updates and learn the way Oris improved one thing that was already good. First, the Divers Date options an up to date 39mm chrome steel case that’s 12.1mm thick and 46mm from lug to lug. Because of the brand new case’s development, the water resistance has elevated from the Divers Sixty-5’s 100 meters to 200. You will see the properly proportioned screw-down crown on the suitable facet of the brand new, sleek-looking case.
Superbly executed updates
The bezel was additionally redesigned to supply extra grip because of extra pronounced enamel, and the bezel insert is now ceramic as an alternative of aluminum. To begin, Oris has launched three dial variations impressed by colours from the Nineteen Sixties. The primary is a shiny black dial, the second is a matte grayish-blue dial, and the final is an attractive mild cream dial. The final two enhance the retro really feel considerably and have an nearly powdery look to them that I totally get pleasure from.
What additionally stood out instantly once I held the watches was how nicely the slender case flowed into the brand new bracelet. It creates a pleasant, slim profile that makes these watches tremendous snug on the wrist. The brand new bracelet can also be a welcome addition that provides to the posh really feel of the Divers Date. It now has thick, mirror-polished (actual) rivets that distinction properly with the opposite brushed hyperlinks. On prime of that, the bracelet has quick-release spring bars for elevated practicality.
A trusted motion for the Divers Date
If you happen to flip the watch round, you might be greeted by the pink Oris rotor of the model’s caliber 733. Basically, this can be a Sellita SW200-1 with a personalized rotor. The automated motion operates at 28,800vph, has 26 jewels, and affords 41 hours of energy reserve. By selecting this Sellita motion, Oris can preserve the watch rather more reasonably priced than different fashions with the model’s Calibre 400.
I believe that could be a good selection, and I like that Oris opted to maintain the worth the identical as that of the Divers Sixty-5 at €2,450. On prime of that, you don’t simply get the watch on the bracelet; Oris throws in a rubber Tropic-style strap as nicely.
Contemplating all of the updates, a worth enhance would have been logical, however Oris correctly learn the room and determined towards that. I additionally checked the outdated worth of the Divers Sixty-5 from 2016 when this dial model got here out within the 42mm dimension, and it was €2,050 on the bracelet then. A worth enhance of €400 in eight years could be very affordable, particularly if you happen to perceive what you get in return. Whereas the brand new Oris Diver Date is costlier than your Doxa, Mike, I imagine it’s the greatest at school at its €2.5K worth level.
What makes it higher than the Doxa Sub 200T?
That turns into very obvious whenever you put the watch in your wrist. It’s an absolute pleasure to put on because of its slim profile, the superbly proportioned case, and the elevated visible brilliance. That final side performs an enormous half within the feeling of carrying a real luxurious watch. I used to be severely impressed by the numerous updates and the way they translate to a watch that feels and appears like a greater model of the Divers Sixty-5. This additionally simply justifies its greater worth level than the Doxa Sub 200T.
Whereas I do like the brand new Sub 200T, the well-known Doxa aesthetic has by no means discovered a house in my coronary heart. I perceive its enchantment to followers of traditional dive watches, and I like its backstory, however there’s a sure oddball character to it that’s not for me. Simply a few examples are the bezel and crystal proportions. The bezel feels too large and the crystal too small. On prime of that, the polished a part of the bezel is an absolute scratch magnet. The handset additionally seems awkward with its large minute hand and a somewhat puny hour hand. All in all, these items create a unusual aesthetic that I like however don’t love.
The higher every day wearer triumphs
That’s why the Sub 200T would all the time be an additional watch in my assortment somewhat than a every day wearer. I’d get it out for the summer time and put on it throughout a visit on a rubber strap. However after the vacations ended, the watch would find yourself within the field once more, and I’d resort to a greater every day wearer. This can be a high quality that I often search for in a watch when contemplating it for my assortment.
And that’s the place the brand new Oris Divers Date shines because the much better possibility in at this time’s battle. Its seems, execution, and general enchantment make the Oris a real winner, not simply on this battle. However let’s begin with taking at this time’s trophy.
Mike: Doxa Sub 200T
Thanks for the convincing tackle the Oris Divers Date, Jorg. Whereas I haven’t seen these watches in particular person but, I agree they’re a pleasant refresh of the Divers Sixty-5 with some interesting upgrades. At this time, although, I’m right here to speak to you in regards to the Doxa Sub 200T. I’ve seen these within the steel, and this can be a nice match-up as a result of each contenders boast retro styling in wearable case sizes.
Certainly, the Sub 200T is extremely snug on the wrist. It measures 39mm large by 41.5mm lengthy and simply 10.7mm thick. Let that sink in as a result of the standard Doxa Subs we’ve grown to like are a bit chunky or plate-like watches on the wrist. The longstanding Sub 300T is 42.5mm in diameter and 13.65mm thick for good measure. My favourite, the Sub 300, has an analogous diameter and is 13.4mm thick.
Nonetheless an actual Doxa
Regardless that the Sub 200T is a smaller mannequin, it nonetheless affords a 200m depth score and the famed chrome steel “no-deco” bezel that helps divers calculate how lengthy they will keep underwater at a given depth with out decompression stops. A screw-down crown helps reinforce the watch’s intent.
A seemingly countless variety of choices
Lately, Doxa has expanded its dial shade choices by a large margin. The times of simply selecting between an orange Skilled, black Sharkhunter, and silver Searambler are lengthy gone! If my math is right, I depend 13(!!) dial choices for the Sub 200T. Some hues can be found in a matte or sunburst version. Then, the quantity expands additional as a result of every model comes with a beads-of-rice bracelet or snug rubber strap. That’s a profit over the Oris, though I’m certain extra variants will come to market in due time.
Made for everybody
I believe it’s truthful to say that the majority watch manufacturers don’t handle girls with succesful, mechanical dive watches. The Doxa Sub 200T is a bona fide possibility for all sexes due to its dimension and big selection of shade decisions. Usually, once we see these kind of watches, they’ve watered-down specs and/or quartz actions. Fortunately, the Doxa comes right.
The Sub 200T makes use of the identical motion because the Oris. The Sellita SW200-1 isn’t on show, however that’s high-quality. As a substitute, the watches characteristic the standard Doxa case again with an engraved sailboat and 6 deeply carved case-opening grooves. Once more, it’s a testomony that Doxa desires these watches deemed as a part of the (laborious)core assortment.
The Skilled Sub 200T with the long-lasting (matte) dial (left) and the sunburst model flanking the larger Sub 300T
Traditional seems
The Doxa certainly has a really particular aesthetic. The C-case, distinctive dial, and attribute bezel make it extra of a software watch. Nonetheless, the extra colourful dial choices assist tone down this narrative. Is the Oris actually a greater every day watch? It’s actually extra of a mainstream-looking watch with its Oyster-style bracelet and 60-minute dive bezel. However not everybody desires to channel a Submariner when choosing a watch, and I believe the Sub 200T offers a wearable every day various. Plus, there’s the worth distinction.
Large financial savings over the Divers Date
The Sub 200T fashions are priced at €1,550 on a rubber strap or €1,590 on the metal bracelet. Each 18mm choices embrace a wetsuit extension. The bracelet model is greater than €800 lower than the Oris Divers Date, which is sizable. The truth that each are seen as moderately priced solely underscores how candy a deal the Doxa Sub 200T is.
Time to decide on
At this time, we now have two dive watches with classic roots. Each, nonetheless, characteristic fashionable actions and capabilities. They’re additionally moderately sized and fairly priced. It’s your job to resolve which one will get your vote. If you happen to really feel like telling us why you opted for the Oris or the Doxa, simply go away your feedback beneath. Thanks for voting!
