I’ve had the chance to overview a number of completely different watches from Brellum over the course of the previous couple of years, and whereas I’ve persistently been impressed by the model’s choices, its chronographs are proper on the higher measurement restrict for what I can comfortably put on on my pretty slim wrist. Brellum all the time does a commendable job of mitigating what would possibly in any other case be quite massive dimensions, though fastidiously thought of proportions have limits when it comes to how a lot they’ll visually shrink a design, and the model’s full-size chronographs are just too massive for some collectors. For its newest launch of 2024, Brellum has created a brand new smaller chronograph, and the Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer takes the basic idea of its signature Duobox sequence and renders it in a compact sub-40mm bundle.
On the time of launch, Brellum is providing its new Duobox 39 Chronometer in three completely different colorways (blue, silver, and anthracite), and every can be produced as a restricted version of 46 examples. For many who is probably not acquainted with Brellum, the small-scale impartial Swiss model has a complete output of simply 299 watches per yr, and all of its timepieces are COSC-certified chronometers. Whereas 46 examples of every colorway (138 watches complete) would possibly sound like an extremely small manufacturing run, this in the end accounts for almost half of Brellum’s annual output, and different limited-edition fashions, such because the model’s Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase and Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium have been produced in equally small numbers. With that in thoughts, whereas Brellum’s earlier limited-edition chronographs have all been primarily based on the identical elementary center case, the brand new Duobox 39 Chronometer represents a tangibly completely different providing that’s noticeably extra compact in all its key dimensions.
Crafted from 316L stainless-steel with satin-finished surfaces and high-polished accents, the case of the Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer contains a comparable general design to what might be noticed on the model’s full-size Duobox fashions, together with its numerous limited-edition pilot watches just like the Pilot LE.2 GMT. With that in thoughts, the Duobox 39 Chronometer is considerably smaller, and its case measures 39.5mm in diameter, with a 39mm bezel additional lowering the visible profile of the watch. Moreover, Brellum’s new smaller chronograph contains a barely narrower 21mm lug width, whereas its lug-to-lug distance has been decreased to 48mm, and it’s also barely thinner, with a complete top of 15.3mm. Whereas this nonetheless would possibly sound like a correctly chunky timepiece, solely 11.05mm of that complete thickness comes from its stainless-steel case elements, and the remainder of that on-paper 15.3mm dimension is occupied by the domed sapphire crystals (with anti-reflective remedy) which can be fitted to both aspect of the watch.
Regardless of being smaller than its full-size chronograph siblings, the brand new Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer nonetheless isn’t an particularly skinny timepiece, and with a weight of roughly 76 grams (not together with its strap or bracelet), it in the end affords a strong quantity of wrist presence. Nevertheless, similar to Brellum’s full-size chronographs, the Duobox 39 Chronometer wears its top extremely nicely, and its fastidiously thought of case structure mitigates what would possibly in any other case be a quite imposing profile. Since almost a 3rd of its general thickness is occupied by the pair of domed sapphire crystals which can be fitted to its bezel and caseback, the Duobox 39 instantly seems smaller than a equally sized watch with a slab-sided design, and its downward curving lugs and domed caseback additional assist the watch sit low towards the wrist.
The minor discount in case thickness is definitely welcome, though the smaller diameter and shorter lug-to-lug distance are much more important, and so they outcome within the Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer having a noticeably extra compact general profile. Except for its decreased dimensions, the remainder of the Duobox 39 Chronometer’s exterior follows within the footsteps of its bigger siblings, and its caseback is secured by a set of six small screws, whereas a signed crown and pair of pump-style chronograph pushers protrude from the right-hand aspect of the case. Moreover, whereas neither the crown nor pushers screw all the way down to the center case, the Duobox 39 Chronometer nonetheless affords a depth score of 100 meters, which is similar quantity of water resistance that may be discovered amongst Brellum’s bigger chronograph fashions.
Whereas Brellum’s full-size Duobox fashions have dials with a 6-9-12 register format, the brand new Duobox 39 Chronometer opts for a extra conventional 3-6-9 orientation, with an oblong date window neatly set inside the recessed sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Utilized hour markers and raised rings for the chronograph registers present the dial with further depth, and small colourful accents punctuate the minute totalizer and central chronograph seconds hand. Whereas the anthracite model featured right here receives shiny inexperienced highlights, the blue mannequin has these identical particulars in orange, and the silver-dial Duobox 39 Chronometer has pink accents on its dial paired with a shiny blue central chronograph hand. Moreover, whereas the anthracite-dial prototype photographed for this text has a normal black calendar disc, the manufacturing fashions could have date discs which can be color-matched to the floor of their dials.
Printed alongside the outermost perimeter of the Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer’s dial is a pulsations scale; nevertheless, the curvature of the domed sapphire crystal nearly completely obscures it from view when wanting straight on the watch, and you need to tilt the case at an angle earlier than you’ll be able to clearly see the dimensions’s numerals. Small dots of Tremendous-LumiNova are added to the ends of the polished hour markers, whereas the pair of time-telling arms obtain luminous inlays operating down their facilities, and all the Tremendous-LumiNova used on the Duobox 39 Chronometer emits a blue-colored glow at midnight. Because of the comparatively small measurement of its luminous parts, the Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer’s lume efficiency is pretty common, though it undeniably helps support with low-light legibility, and the modestly sized luminous plots permit the dial to keep up a quite refined and chic general look.
Not like Brellum’s numerous full-size chronographs that run on Valjoux-based calibers, the brand new Duobox 39 Chronometer is powered by the model’s Cal. BR-110 computerized chronograph motion primarily based upon the structure of the La Joux-Perret Cal. L110. Slightly than having a cam-operated system, the Cal. L110 makes use of a column wheel to manage its chronograph complication, and the column wheel part has been given a shiny blue end that matches the blued screws that safe the motion’s plates and bridges. Operating at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with an influence reserve of roughly 60 hours, the 26-jewel Brellum Cal. BR-110 is a COSC-certified chronometer, which signifies that it ensures an accuracy score of -4/+6 seconds per day, and the BR-110 actions fitted to the trio of Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer fashions obtain {custom} 4N gold-plated rotors which can be engraved with every watch’s limited-edition quantity out of 46 examples.
No matter dial colour, all three variations of the Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer come as a set with each a stainless-steel bracelet and a black veal leather-based strap. The strap seems to be more-or-less similar to what might be discovered on different Brellum fashions (such because the beforehand talked about Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase), and it contains a crocodile sample on its outer floor with a stainless-steel deployant clasp. In the meantime, the bracelet contains a rounded five-link design with brushed sides and high-polished facilities, and though it consists completely of strong machined elements, it makes use of a pin-and-collar setup for its detachable hyperlinks, quite than the extra premium strategy of single-sided screws. The bracelet for the clasp adheres to a standard butterfly-style design with perlage adorning the interior folding part, and whereas it doesn’t provide any type of built-in micro-adjustment system, Brellum does embody two half-links to assist house owners obtain m a extra custom-tailored match on the wrist.
The bracelet for the Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer tapers from 21mm on the case all the way down to 19mm on the underside of the wrist; nevertheless, provided that its lug width is already considerably massive relative to its 39mm diameter, I personally would have most well-liked for the bracelet to have an extra couple millimeters of taper to higher intensify the decreased proportions of the case. For somebody like myself with wrists within the vary of 6.5 to six.75 inches, the bracelet might really feel barely too broad for the watch, though people with bigger wrists will possible be glad to have the additional bracelet width, as it is going to permit them to benefit from the consolation of a compact case profile with out having a watch that feels too small or dainty. On condition that the Duobox 39 Chronometer comes as a set with each a strap and bracelet, an built-in quick-release system would have been a welcome addition, though this can be a really minor nitpick, as even probably the most novice of collectors are able to utilizing a springbar instrument to alter a strap.
By way of its general design, execution, and a focus to element, the brand new Duobox 39 Chronometer very a lot appears like a Brellum chronograph, though its decreased dimensions present the mannequin with a considerably completely different, nearly vintage-leaning spirit in comparison with what exists amongst its bigger siblings. Whereas all three colorways of the Duobox 39 Chronometer are restricted editions of 46 examples, I wouldn’t be shocked to see this reduced-size format tailored to different fashions in some unspecified time in the future sooner or later, much like how Brellum has created a number of completely different executions of its full-size chronographs. With an official retail value of $3,690 USD, the Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer is positioned proper in the identical neighborhood as comparable fashions from the model’s present lineup, and it serves as a perfect different for anybody who has been eyeing Brellum’s chronographs however was beforehand deterred by their measurement. For extra data on the Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer, please go to the model’s web site.
