I notice there’s a sure inherent battle right here, being an individual who writes about new releases each week and covers new merchandise like information. As somebody who’s within the business I’m at all times curious concerning the newest and best from any model I like, and we’ll at all times be comfortable to share that data with readers on Worn & Wound. It’s refreshing, although, that the crew at Zeitwinkel appears to have an understanding {that a} good watch is an effective watch, and that reintroducing countless variants with splashy campaigns might need diminishing returns. There are different examples the place the Zeitwinkel philosophy strains up with my very own mind-set about watchmaking, together with transparency on how their watches are made, utilizing conventional manufacturing strategies when potential and augmenting their processes with new tech the place it makes essentially the most sense, and preserving manufacturing solely as excessive as these processes permit with out the necessity to take shortcuts.
Anyway, as I used to be absorbing this details about Zeitwinkel and studying extra about their watches, I discovered myself my very own watchbox and questioning if the items sitting there nonetheless represented what I valued in a watch. I started the method of culling the herd, marking some watches I actually loved as expendable for one thing else, nonetheless but to be decided, that might higher replicate my very own style and outlook now.
Getting the possibility to satisfy Albert at Geneva Watch Days final summer time was the purpose at which I knew I wished so as to add a Zeitwinkel, the 273° particularly, to my very own assortment. This was not a gathering in a elaborate resort suite alongside the lake in Geneva, however an impromptu meetup on the one restaurant the place we may discover a desk (outdoor) to put down some watches. Albert took me by means of the complete assortment – it was, I believe, my first time seeing any Zeitwinkel in particular person, not to mention nearly all of them directly. Albert defined not simply the model philosophy, which I had already acquainted myself with, however most of the craft parts that set Zeitwinkel’s watches aside. The usage of German silver within the motion, for instance, which takes particular care by the watchmaker as the fabric is so simply tarnished, and the intricate dial work work throughout the gathering, together with the colourful laser engraved dials within the 188° MAKS line.
It was the 273° Saphir Fumé, although, that actually received me over. The manufacturing of the dial is a posh twenty step course of, and since it’s product of sapphire, there are lots of very actual challenges concerned in bringing all of it collectively. The hardness of the sapphire materials, for instance, signifies that indices and appliques can’t be utilized in the way in which they might on a conventional dial, so Zeitwinkel makes use of a lithographic electroplating course of for all the dial textual content, hour, and minute markers. That is just like the method used within the manufacturing of semiconductors, primarily making use of and bonding layers of steel to the floor in a extremely exact method.
Visually, I discovered the watch to be instantly gorgeous in the way in which that it modifications in look relying on the lighting and angle from which you view it. The sapphire dial is enjoying an enormous function right here, however so is the distinctive tone of the German silver motion. Considered from the dial facet, it may have both a cool grey or heat brown look relying on a bunch of outdoor components. Seeing it shift just isn’t one thing I’ve grown bored with but, and it’s an actual deal with to have the ability to see the skilled degree motion ending from either side of the case.
And that case can also be the watch’s secret weapon. It’s commanding at 42.5mm in diameter, a quantity that originally had me a bit of involved. But it surely’s additionally surprisingly ergonomic. The lugs angle down at a reasonably sharp angle, lowering what would in any other case be an ungainly lug to lug expertise, even on massive wrists. The ending of the case could be very properly completed, with a bead blasted part on the midcase, flanked by excessive polished accents up and down. It’s a basic concept that’s executed in a up to date method.
Proudly owning the 273° Saphir Fumé up to now has represented a peak in my expertise in watch accumulating. That may sound like hyperbole, however I can’t recall a time once I was extra happy with a watch buy this deep into possession. It’s not simply proudly owning the 273°, although, that’s particular. It’s seeing it alongside different watches in my assortment, from the likes of Louis Erard, Arcanaut, Paulin, and Christopher Ward – all impartial manufacturers the place, for me, the pleasure of possession could be very actual and an enormous a part of the expertise.
I’m positive, sooner or later, there will probably be a watch from an enormous luxurious group that I’ll need to personal and finally add to my assortment. I’m not committing to indies and micros solely by any means. However proudly owning and carrying the Zeitwinkel and a handful of different watches has unlocked one thing for me: an understanding that watch accumulating is extra significant when your individual outlook on the pastime is mirrored by the individuals who made your watch. Zeitwinkel
