Welcome again to Convey A Loupe, and Blissful Friday! LVMH Watch Week 2025 is formally coming to an in depth and, with it, Hodinkee.com is affected by new releases from the group. Think about this your fast classic reprieve. When you scroll again and make amends for Louis Vuitton’s newest Tambours, TAG Heuer’s new Formulation 1 Chronograph, and so forth, save Convey A Loupe for a while in the course of your weekend studying session. Or keep proper right here and luxuriate in the very best classic watches accessible on the market on the World Huge Internet instantly!
As for outcomes from our final column, over within the UK, the Rolex Ref. 6098 Huge Bubbleback “Pre-Explorer” hammered for two,200 GB, and the 1970 Heuer Carrera Ref. 7753 NT ended up at 3,600 GBP. My favourite of the bunch, the Longines Ref. 5415 chronograph 13ZN, is heading as much as the public sale block this morning right here, prebidding is at $4,250. Lastly, on eBay, the Mido with a François Borgel waterproof case discovered a brand new residence for $540.
Let’s get into this week’s picks!
1958 Rolex GMT-Grasp Ref. 6542
Ah sure, lastly, a reference 6542 GMT-Grasp. That is the place all of it begins for the mannequin that helped propel Rolex into sport watch stardom. First launched in 1955, celebrating its seventieth anniversary this very yr, the design is common, replicated by different manufacturers for many years, and nonetheless similar to the present mannequin “Pepsi” GMT-Grasp II. The Bakelite bezel of this reference has come to be the defining characteristic however can also be the explanation that this particular watch was discontinued. The bezels are liable to cracking, way more fragile than their aluminum successors, and had been usually changed again within the day. Past fragility, the radioactivity of the radium inside these bezels was the explanation a US Naval officer and his household sued Rolex in 1961, claiming that his 6542 had prompted most cancers. Rolex then “recalled” the bezels. All that stated, discovering an instance in authentic situation just like the one we’ve got right here is subsequent to unattainable at this level.
Past sporting its authentic bezel, the situation of this watch is actually jaw-dropping. Understanding totally how annoying it’s to learn on a web site the place you solely have the pictures to go off of, Fifties Rolex on this situation must be seen within the metallic to be appreciated. The sharpness of a case like that is virtually indescribable.
Persevering with on the theme of excellent situation, the dial right here reveals a little bit of tropical hues and is general even all through. Full tropical dials are one factor, however when a gilt dial Rolex like this one sits someplace between black and brown, the look is way much less jarring whereas being simply as charming.
This 1958 instance has appropriate small lume plots, being later within the 6542 manufacturing run after Rolex experimented, making a batch of dials with bigger lume plots, and is obtainable on a interval appropriate (a minimum of) Rolex “massive brand” Oyster bracelet. The vendor notes that the watch is recent to market after having been found in Southern California, sitting for some time, after a fast service and crystal change, it’s now able to discover a new residence.
The vendor, Jon at Dial Again Classic, has listed this excellent GMT-Grasp as “value on request.” I requested and located the ask to be an inexpensive $160,000. Get the entire particulars proper right here.
1972 Cartier London Tank Louis Cartier “Small” with “Woven” Bracelet
The creations of Cartier London’s workshop within the Nineteen Sixties and Nineteen Seventies are amongst my favourite watches ever made, flat out. The person behind all of this was Jean-Jacques Cartier. He assumed the place of his father, operating Cartier London, after WWII, and by the early Nineteen Sixties, determined to begin producing wristwatches in London moderately than proceed to import Paris-made items. The watches had been made by hand, one after the other, and the designs are uniquely “Swinging Sixties” London – assume Maxi Oval, Crash, Pebble, and so forth.
Dialing into this specific Cartier London instance, it’s a Tank LC (or, if you wish to be very particular, a Tank JJC for Jean-Jacques Cartier) in a “small” dimension that’s the “smallest” provided by this department of Cartier. Not fairly as small because the 23mm by 15.5mm “mini” that got here out of Paris in 1969, the London small measures 26mm by 19mm, becoming within the undersized bucket with out being a lot of “a glance.”
Developing for public sale in its beginning metropolis, this one caught my eye due to the bracelet. Any Cartier London watch is uncommon and fascinating, however on a bracelet, that is actually particular. I’m reminded of a Maxi Oval – on a bracelet – which bought at Phillips final yr for $279,400, and that was current just a few weeks in the past on the Miami Seashore Vintage Present within the sales space of Davide Parmigiani. This watch additionally sparked a reminiscence in my thoughts as I’ve seen a London LC on this bracelet earlier than. In December of 2023, Christie’s provided a “massive” model of this identical watch, which ended up promoting for $47,880.
This Cartier is lot 54 of the Watches & Luxurious Gadgets public sale by Roseberys London on Wednesday, February fifth, 2025, at 5 am ET. The presale estimate is £10,000 to £15,000. Click on right here to view the lot.
P.S. If a Baignoire is extra your velocity, try lot 55, a London instance in an excellent dimension with its authentic deployant buckle.
Fifties Movado with François Borgel Waterproof Case and Black Dial
It has been an entire two weeks since I included a Movado in Convey A Loupe, and that ought to be thought of commendable, actually. My love for the classic period of Movado is unavoidable at this level and if nice examples hold popping up for nice costs on eBay, I will probably be pressured to proceed to both purchase them for myself or embrace them right here.
Right here we’ve got a late Fifties time-only Movado with every part going for it, let me inform you why. The case is made by the nice François Borgel, maker of the very best waterproof circumstances of this time interval and provider to Patek Philippe, Vacheron, and so forth. It’s 33mm in diameter and options fascinating lugs which are really fairly much like these discovered on Louis Vuitton’s new Tambour Convergence. Now for the dial, it’s actually manufactured by Stern Frères as is obvious by the numeral font. This is identical numeral font from the Rolex featured right here a few weeks again and is seen on the ref. 8171 Padellone. Moreover, the dial is black. Black dials are extraordinarily onerous to seek out on classic Movados. Properly, that is not solely true as a result of you will discover just a few on the market at anyone time, however virtually all of them have been repainted to be black. This one right here is the true deal authentic.
Lastly, the motion. That is Movado’s caliber 431 full-rotor automated, produced from 1956 to 1960. Throughout this period, Movado produced all of their actions in-house, and so they had been really fairly early to automated winding calibers, most of these being “bumper” automatics. The 431 is the end result of Movado’s automated winding improvement and, for my part, among the finest time-only actions they ever made.
An eBay vendor in Tempe, Arizona, has put this Movado up for a buy-it-now value of $795. Get the entire particulars and pictures proper right here.
Nineteen Forties Nameless Cabriolet Wristwatch
Whereas I’d know greater than anyone individual ought to find out about that final Movado, right here is one I do know virtually nothing about – most likely as a result of there is not a lot to find out about it! That is an unsigned or “nameless” cabriolet-style wristwatch relationship to the Nineteen Forties. The vendor right here is one I at all times examine, as I believe he has an excellent eye for classic, and this watch is superb proof of that. The situation is admittedly strong general, and for those who’re searching for one thing nobody else goes to have, this is perhaps the one for you.
The detailing on the case is very nice, with some engraved traces on the dial “cowl,” and the sizing isn’t dangerous at 25mm broad by 36mm tall. The motion would not appear to be something to scoff at, both. It’s unsigned however made in Switzerland with some surprisingly fascinating ending. I’d anticipate to see a way more industrial-looking caliber in a watch like this. All in all, this can be a funky, surprisingly well-made watch with a singular design – an ideal BAL watch!
The vendor, Arthur at Shuck The Oyster in Germany, is providing this nameless classic look ahead to €1,500. Test it out proper right here.
Nineteen Sixties Universa “Disco Volante” in Sterling Silver and Wooden
One final eBay gem to complete off the week right here: this can be a Common (no. l) Disco Volante with a sterling silver and wooden case made in Germany within the Nineteen Sixties or Nineteen Seventies. I am at all times searching for quirky classic disco volante shapes, and this one matches the invoice. I do not assume I’ve ever encountered one other watch with a sterling silver and wooden case. The case is manufactured in Germany, however primarily based on different Common watches I can discover on the net, it seems to be just like the model utilized Swiss actions, particularly from ETA. So, whereas this vendor doesn’t state the maker or present a photograph of the manually wound caliber inside, I’ll exit on a limb to say that I’d be keen to wager it’s a Swiss-made motion.
An eBay vendor in London has put this Disco Volante Universa for a buy-it-now value of £775.00. Click on right here.
