Warning lights go off for critical watch geeks once they get wind of a brand new mannequin from a vogue or luxurious model. Whereas Dior is finest recognized for its high fashion, its first males’s watch, the Chiffre Rouge, can’t be dismissed as a vogue watch – removed from it. Embracing an edgy, modern and admittedly polarising spirit, the Chiffre Rouge is a bona fide mechanical watch with refined finishes and strong horological content material. Amongst Dior’s latest releases is that this refreshed tackle the Chiffre Rouge Chronograph embellished with insignia colors and patterns of the Maison and powered by sister model Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero chronograph motion.
Though Dior has been within the watch enterprise since 1975, it has predominantly catered to ladies. The model’s mechanical watchmaking journey didn’t begin till 2004 when Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane oversaw the creation of the modern and sporty Chiffre Rouge. With its black case, uncommon asymmetrical profile and a vibrant crimson pusher or crown protruding from the case at 4 o’clock, there was nothing demure in regards to the Chiffre Rouge. Produced for a few decade, the Chiffre Rouge was revived in 2024 in three-hand, tourbillon and chronograph fashions.
The black ultra-matte DLC-coated metal case has a 41mm diameter and a considerable thickness of 14.3mm. It options the signature uneven ‘bumper’ on the fitting facet of the case, housing the pushers and crown. Pursuing the asymmetry, the projecting cylindrical crimson chronograph reset pusher at 4 o’clock is countered diagonally by a notched space working between 9 and 12 o’clock on the in any other case clean bezel. The black begin/cease pusher is rectangular and positioned within the lateral flank of the higher lug, whereas the massive, engraved screw-down crown – paying homage to the cap on the Eau Sauvage fragrance bottle – options Dior’s iconic cannage sample and the CD monogram. Utilizing a matte end on the highest surfaces, the ‘bumper’ is polished, making a fairly modern liquid impact. The case is waterproof to 100 metres.
Regarded by Christian Dior because the “color of life”, crimson has at all times performed a starring function within the Chiffre Rouge. Whereas first introduced final yr in black, this new restricted version comes with a robust crimson dial with a pronounced gradient impact, showing nearly black because it reaches the periphery. Embossed with Dior’s cannage sample, this omnipresent motif used throughout the model’s merchandise is claimed to be impressed by the rattan weave of the chairs at Christian Dior’s first present in 1947.
The 2 barely recessed counters – 30-min elapsed occasions at 3 and working seconds at 9 o’clock – have snailed interiors, and the 12-hour totaliser seems contained in the cannage at 6 o’clock. Respecting Christian Dior’s fortunate quantity 8, the spherical date aperture with a triple round crimson body reveals a crimson quantity 8. Maybe not the simplest to identify, the central chronograph seconds hand is crimson too. Luminescence is delicate, with a strip of lume contained in the hour and minute arms and on the peripheral indices above the utilized and elongated black gold-coloured hour markers.
The black rubber strap, which is embossed with a cannage sample and has a black DLC folding clasp with micro-adjustment, encompasses a branded quick-release system that’s bigger than most and simple to make use of – it’s a small factor that reveals the general consideration to element.
Benefitting from the synergies of the LVMH group, the watch is supplied with Zenith’s well-known El Primero high-frequency chronograph motion able to measuring 1/tenth of a second. With a motion of those specs, it’s a little bit of a disgrace that the dial isn’t outfitted with a precision seconds monitor. The rotor is embellished with a cannage sample, and the motion boasts a 48-hour energy reserve.
The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph with this gradient crimson dial is a restricted version of 100 items and retails for EUR 15,000 or USD 17,000. Extra data at dior.com.
