After spending time with the Rolex Submariner ref. 5508 and the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph, I get yet one more probability to discover a private grail watch right now. Sure, life might be good when you could have particular entry to a few of the world’s best watches. This time, I bought to strap on a 1978 Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/1A.
Once more, the stakes are excessive. Does spending time with the Nautilus cement it as considered one of my all-time favorites, or does it buckle beneath strain? Let’s see how we fared collectively!
The unique Patek Philippe Nautilus
Patek Philippe launched the Nautilus in 1976 with this reference 3700/1A. This was a daring watch by any measure, from its “Jumbo” 40mm diameter (42mm from ear to ear), robust built-in bracelet design, and — final however definitely not least — an eye-watering US$3,100 value. Such a sum for a metal watch was beforehand remarkable and, transformed to right now’s cash, equaled round US$17,000. Patek even boasted, “One of many world’s costliest watches is fabricated from metal” in its ads on the time.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus
Gérald Genta famously drafted the tough sketch for the Nautilus on a serviette in a matter of minutes. Genta’s pencil was solely considered one of many issues linking the Nautilus to the 1972-introduced Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Whereas the Royal Oak confirmed an escape for Swiss manufacturers from the Quartz Disaster in final luxurious, the Nautilus validated that method in some ways. The similarities are putting, with a diving-helmet-inspired RO versus a porthole-inspired Nautilus, a shared Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber, built-in bracelets, and blue dials.
These two titans paved the way in which for a brand new luxurious Swiss watch business. In a way, the Nautilus is the Cristiano Ronaldo to the Royal Oak’s Lionel Messi. The competitors solely drove each to higher heights.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/1A
So, what was this unique Nautilus all about? Apparently, the 3700/1A featured a two-part case held along with screws within the “ears.” This implies the porthole design wasn’t merely an aesthetic gimmick but in addition the inspiration for the case’s building. The motion needed to be loaded in from the highest, enabled by a cut up crown stem. This and the caliber’s slim profile allowed for a svelte 7.5mm total case thickness. The bracelet is famously built-in with the case for a extra naturally flowing and cohesive total design. On the 3700/1A, the bracelet tapered to 16mm on the clasp, whereas tapered to 14mm on later variations.
Inside ticks the ultra-thin automated caliber 28-255C, Patek’s model of the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920. The motion measures simply 2.45mm thick by 28mm throughout. JLC provided ébauche variations not simply to AP and Patek but in addition to Vacheron Constantin. With a 19,800vph frequency and an influence reserve of round 38 hours at lower than 2.5mm thick, it ticked all of the packing containers for the “Holy Trinity.”
The Patek Philippe Nautilus featured a ridged dial with what many name a “teak-deck sample.” Patek’s craftspeople hand-carved these ridges, including a delicate sunburst impact and blue lacquer on high. The straightforward, rectangular white gold utilized indexes distinction with the rounded baton handset. Little design quirks like this give the Nautilus character.
Dealing with the unique Nautilus for the primary time
The very first thing I seen upon selecting up the 3700/1A in entrance of me was its measurement. Even by right now’s requirements, that is certainly a jumbo watch. In contrast to lots of its trendy counterparts, nevertheless, it wears its proportions with nice class. The wide-flaring porthole ears taper off radically to a really elegant bracelet. The case’s stunning slimness and the dial’s delicate parts present it with a proper, suave high quality that completely counterbalances the imposing stature.
The design masterfully combines delicate particulars and stark, daring statements. For example, its vast, flat bezel provides assertion to the way more refined dial sitting inside it. The flatness is amplified by the dial’s proximity to the sapphire crystal. We’ve grown accustomed to tall hand stacks and even taller rehauts, however this appears to be like infinitely extra refined.
In comparison with the Royal Oak, the Nautilus feels much less radical however extra mature. Genta softened a few of the watch’s daring statements with rounded parts. At first look, you may really feel these are randomly sprinkled in, just like the arms contrasting the hour markers. Upon nearer inspection, the complete watch balances sternness with softness via its rounded-angular (or angled-round?) bezel and the softened rectangular heart hyperlinks. Much more than in footage, the design sings to me when dealing with the watch.
Carrying the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/1A
I used to be fortunate sufficient to roughly share wrist circumferences with this Nautilus’s proprietor. Upon slipping my hand via and shutting the clasp, the watch confirmed my earlier findings. I do know of only a few watches that pair boldness and class so completely. Its stance is commanding with out being overpowering. Its look is assertive however removed from crass. It instantly felt proper. “This may very well be my one watch,” I assumed to myself.
Reference 5711/1A
Later variations of the Patek Philippe Nautilus turned extra congruent in design. Normally, I imply this in a constructive sense. On this case, nevertheless, I don’t. The legendary Nautilus ref. 5711/1A, as an example, bought thicker and wider. Bolder arms and markers have been thrown in to make it look extra aggressive. General, it appeared barely much less awkward. In idea, that ought to have cured the 3700/1A’s cut up persona. In actuality, although, it simply threw off its delicate stability, caricaturing it as an announcement of wealth moderately than a masterclass in watch design.
Apparently, strolling round with this roughly €100,000 (on right now’s market) Nautilus feels…regular, for lack of a greater phrase. Nothing right here means that it is likely one of the most coveted luxurious objects on the planet. It looks like a really good, fashionable classic watch. Frankly, a shiny new Rolex Submariner, costing about 1/tenth, shouts loads louder. This speaks for the Nautilus, though it makes me marvel if we now have all gone mad. I prefer it. I imply, I prefer it loads! However certainly not would I drop this type of cash on one.
Herd mentality
In fact, the above alludes to the herd mentality and groupthink inside the watch group. As we collectively resolve {that a} handful of watches are “those to get,” we see huge inflation and unhealthy worship of these watches. I totally notice that I’m participating in it, waxing poetic in regards to the Nautilus on my forearm.
Equally, it’s inconceivable to not view a watch via the lens of its historic relevance. Some watches by no means turned any heads till the fanatic group collectively jumped on them. “In my day, you couldn’t give these away, however now you all need one,” is a typical touch upon such watches. That makes me marvel to what diploma hype shapes our opinions.
Let me lastly add this, then; I’ve dealt with almost each integrated-bracelet luxurious watch in the marketplace, and I don’t consider all of them impersonate the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Nevertheless, with the Nautilus in hand, I do see why this and the RO are the OGs of the style. Only a few, together with Patek Philippe itself, managed to make one pretty much as good as this once more. I merely discover it stunning on one other degree, even with quirks like undersized markers and a vivid white date aperture. Typically the quirks simply work, leading to a extra attention-grabbing total appear and feel. Do I even want to say the Cubitus? Ah, hell…I simply did.
I’m positive that whereas some may share my sentiments, lots of you’ll disagree. Tell us within the feedback part beneath what you consider the unique Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/1A!
