Shot on Leica by Jake Witkin
Who says you may’t train a brand new canine new methods? No person, because it seems. Although it debuted the gathering barely six months in the past, Patek Philippe has already taken the chance to increase its controversial Cubitus line, including two new references in a decreased dimension. Introduced at Watches & Wonders 2025, the brand new Cubtius watches are — except for a brand new diameter — largely the identical because the introductory fashions from final October, utilizing the identical dials, bracelets, actions, and even that includes the identical thickness. Encountered up shut, they’re spectacular watches regardless of their restricted selection (you may have any coloration you want, so long as it’s blue or gold) and whereas they’re amongst Patek’s least imaginative releases of the yr, they maybe signify what the Cubitus should have initially been when it comes to dimension. Heralded as a “medium” sized mannequin, the 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G-001 and 7128/1R-001 watches promise to be a good sight extra common than their 45mm predecessors.
The signature side of the Cubitus is its case geometry. Squarish and angular, the unique fashions caught a whole lot of flak from followers pissed off by Patek’s “alternative” of the Nautilus. Probably the most iconic watch designs ever made, the Nautilus featured considerate angles dreamed up by watchmaking’s Mozart, Gérald Genta, and with its signature “ears,” was symmetrical with out being rote. Whereas the model has vehemently denied that the Cubitus is eclipsing the Nautilus, the discontinuance of a number of key references earlier than the Cubitus launch appears too coincidental. It’s much more telling that we didn’t see any new Nautilus fashions at Watches & Wonders, but have been handled to 2 new Cubitus items, albeit simply in a smaller dimension. The brand new Cubitus circumstances may be extra wearable at 40mm, however they continue to be uninspired with too many planar surfaces across the crystal and a profile that appears overly blocky in comparison with the endearing “squircle” form of the Nautilus. Nevertheless it’s not all dangerous. The built-in bracelet is impeccably completed and cozy, closed with a butterfly clasp emblazoned with Patek’s emblem, and the case’s thickness, measured at 8.5mm, helps it put on near the wrist. However as soon as once more, Patek has signaled it’s disinterested within the metal sports activities watch style, opting as a substitute to concentrate on treasured metals. The brand new Cubitus watches can be found in white gold or rose gold, that means metal purists might want to proceed their vigil if they need something aside from a 45mm inexperienced dial three-hander.
Topside, the brand new Cubitus fashions have up to date dials, however right here, Patek is stretching the definition of the phrase “up to date.” Functionally, they continue to be the identical time-only choices launched final yr, however now are available both blue or brown, relying on which taste of gold you decide. Every part else from the three o’clock date window to the form of the arms and markers is similar, as is the horizontal sample, which is one other “smoking gun” clue that the Cubitus and Nautilus usually are not to this point faraway from each other as Thierry Stern would have us assume. Considered from the again, the manufacture Caliber 26-330 S C motion is kind of beautiful due to a highly-decorated counterweight and plated textual content engravings on the primary bridges. Regardless of a suspiciously weak energy reserve of simply 45 hours most, a watch like that is unlikely to be a each day put on for a lot of of us anyway, rendering its endurance considerably irrelevant. Plus, if you happen to can afford the value tag, you may afford a winder to go along with it.
What’s most essential concerning the new Cubitus references from Patek Philippe is what they signify. First, they’re a step in the precise path when it comes to casing. When you squint actually onerous on the blue dial model, you may form of see a 40mm metal Nautilus peeking via. Particularly in a time when watch shopping for — and with it, watch promoting — is turning into more and more unsure (no less than stateside), Patek would do effectively to present the folks what they need: metal sports activities watches. Secondly (and considerably contradictory) is that the Cubitus in any dimension is unlikely to be an end-goal watch for many consumers. Simply as Rolex’s Land-Dweller is more likely to be a stepping-stone for consumers chasing “grail” fashions like metal Submariners and Daytonas, the Cubitus is a gateway to different items in Patek’s assortment. Understood in these phrases, a few of its derivation all of a sudden turns into a bit of extra forgivable. The Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G in white gold and Cubitus 7128/1R in rose gold are each priced at $76,590 USD. For extra data please go to the Patek Philippe web site.
The photographs on this article have been shot on a Leica Q3, supplied by Leica for Watches and Wonders 2025.
