If you happen to’ve ever watched Midsomer Murders and thought, “That pub seems pretty, disgrace concerning the physique rely,” you would possibly already know The Golden Ball, in Decrease Assendon, simply outdoors Henley-on-Thames. This Seventeenth-century spot is basic English countryside stuff: whitewashed partitions, flower-filled planters, and a sun-drenched beer backyard with umbrella-shaded tables. Fortunately, after we dropped in, the one thriller was whether or not to order the pork or the lamb.
Inside, it’s simply as charming, however not in a compelled, horse-brass-on-every-wall type of means. The bar space has uncovered beams, pale flooring, a couple of delicate splashes of color, and completely no horseshoes or copper pots in sight. It’s clear, relaxed and welcoming — extra “nation cool” than “nation litter.”
The pub is now within the fingers of husband-and-wife crew Ben and Priya Watson, who took over in November 2022. Between them, they’ve racked up 25 years of significant hospitality expertise. Priya’s labored entrance of home at top-notch London eating places like Little Social and Gymkhana, whereas Ben’s hung out in kitchens run by Gordon Ramsay and Clare Smyth. That type of pedigree often means two issues: one, the meals shall be good, and two, somebody will certainly choose your wine order.
Ben’s menu is rooted in trendy European cooking, however with light nods to Priya’s Punjabi heritage alongside the way in which. It’s not a gimmick, only a delicate means of giving the menu character and heat. Elements are as native as attainable, dishes change with the seasons, and nothing feels prefer it’s simply there to fill a spot.
That type of consideration to element earned The Golden Ball a spot within the 2024 Michelin Information
, listed among the many finest pubs in Oxfordshire. However don’t let that put you off — this isn’t a kind of “three peas and a smear of beetroot jus” conditions. It’s correct meals, carried out correctly.
The principle menu covers meat, fish and veggie choices with confidence, and there are a couple of specials on the board to maintain issues attention-grabbing. Vegan choices are restricted, however as a result of the whole lot’s made on-site, you get the sense the kitchen may whip one thing up with a little bit of discover. If you happen to’re visiting at lunchtime, there’s additionally a great-value set menu — two programs for £24 or three for £29 — and it’s removed from an afterthought.
Severe starters
We kicked issues off with a basket of heat, freshly baked bread rolls — the type that disappear inside minutes and make you query your desk manners. The waitress clocked our empty basket and introduced extra with a figuring out smile. No judgement. We love her.
With a glass of English Bacchus from the Bolney Wine Property in hand, we received caught into the starters. My roasted quail breast with satay dressing and spiced swede was very good — completely cooked and stuffed with contrasting and complementary flavours.
My companion’s pan-roasted Loch Duart salmon was the type of dish that appears deceptively easy however will get higher with each chew — charred simply sufficient on the sides and comfortable, pink and buttery within the center.
A silky hen liver parfait from the set menu, served with toasted brioche and a rhubarb and apple chutney, went down a deal with with our visitor. Wealthy, candy and gone in seconds.
Mains that hit the mark
For the primary, I went all-in on consolation meals and ordered a dish of native lamb two methods — roasted saddle and confit shoulder — served with miso-glazed aubergine, a feta and tomato fondue, and crispy cumin potatoes. This was spot-on: the lamb was tender and flavourful, the potatoes rattling close to good, and all paired superbly with the aubergine and fondue.
My different half ordered the braised ox cheek from the specials menu. It arrived smothered in beef glaze, sat atop a mound of horseradish mash, and flanked by kale and maitake mushrooms. The whole lot performed properly collectively — it was wealthy, warming, and exactly what she’d hoped for.
Our visitor went for a juicy and completely seasoned pork chop paired with mash, pear, kale and black pepper sauce, once more from the set menu.
Nothing on the plate felt like filler. Each ingredient had a task, and each flavour earned its place.
Candy endings
Regardless of being comfortably full, we made house for dessert. It might’ve been impolite to not.
The sticky toffee pudding from the set menu was wealthy, spongy, and swimming in caramel sauce. Completely spot on. No complaints, simply clear plates.
Certainly one of our social gathering picked the rhubarb macaron with vanilla custard cream filling and ginger ice cream. Visually, it was spectacular, however the texture didn’t fairly land. As a substitute of that signature soft-chewy centre, the outsized dessert was dry all over. The flavours had been completely judged, although, with sharp rhubarb chopping by means of the sweetness.
I went for “The Golden Ball” dessert (sure, it’s named after the pub), which introduced collectively a chocolate sphere, malt mousse, salted caramel sauce and hazelnut ice cream in a really satisfying pile of indulgence.
The Golden Ball verdict: Completely well worth the journey
The Golden Ball is the type of place you’d fortunately take your dad and mom, a date, or a mate with good style in meals. It’s received polish, however not pretension. The meals is wise and seasonal, the environment relaxed, and the employees genuinely welcoming.
With starters from £14 and mains from £28, it’s not your most cost-effective nation pub, however you’re getting correct cooking and a stunning setting in your cash. If you happen to’re swinging by for lunch, go for the set menu and thank us later.
And as for the Midsomer Murders connection? Don’t fear — the one factor getting murdered right here is your waistline.
Tasted: The Golden BallPrice: Three-course a la carte meal round £55Web: GoldenBallHenley.co.ukAverage Joes score: ★★★★★
