Watches & Wonders could also be over for an additional yr, however that doesn’t essentially imply we’ve been capable of transfer on from all of the novelties launched in Geneva. From world-first tourbillons to birthday celebrations, the world’s largest watch manufacturers weren’t afraid to flex their proverbial muscle mass on the largest stage, pushing the boundaries of up to date watchmaking with assured aplomb.
However one model, usually revered for its innate means to face out from the horological crowd with distinctive and sought-after items, garnered some undesirable consideration for one in all its massive 2025 novelties. Rolex, an organization recognized for its obsessive evolution fairly than revolution, did one thing genuinely sudden: it introduced a completely new assortment. However the reception from watch followers was lower than its normal unwavering worship. In reality, it left many scratching their heads.
On paper, the Rolex Land-Dweller reads like a love letter to built-in sports activities watches… however on the wrist appears extra like an overpriced Tissot PRX.
Let me be clear right here: the Land-Dweller isn’t a nasty watch. It’s impeccably made. It’s undeniably Rolex. However when your brand-new mannequin is unveiled on the ground in Geneva with a 40mm case, honeycomb dial and a stainless-steel built-in bracelet, individuals are naturally going to attract comparisons along with your Swiss competitors. Though on this case, the venerable comparability isn’t to an AP Royal Oak or a brand new Vacheron Constantin. It’s an entry-level Tissot.
Tissot Nonetheless Dominates the Worth Market
Initially launched as a quartz mannequin in 2021, the PRX took its inspiration from the Nineteen Seventies Tissot Seastar. Nevertheless it was solely when the Swiss model launched the mechanical Powermatic 80 model, which provides an ETA-based computerized motion and a textured patterned dial, that this distinctive piece really entered the horological zeitgeist.
The blue dial mannequin is the most well-liked and sometimes attracts comparisons to the AP Royal Oak (and now the brand new Rolex Land-Dweller), with its angular case, Tapisserie-style dial, and built-in bracelet.
The construct high quality is spectacular and in the end advantages from Tissot’s place throughout the Swatch Group, which supplies it entry to high-quality elements at scale, notably the dependable ETA motion. On the wrist, it has presence, weight, and retro allure with a touch of ‘80s nostalgia – particularly with the blue dial that evokes classic aesthetics. However at simply $1,150 AUD, it delivers critical luxurious vibes with out the posh price ticket.
Does Rolex Deserve the Hype?
The Land-Dweller is the Swiss luxurious watch model’s first new assortment in years. Daring identify. Gentle execution. Sure, it’s powered by the all-new calibre 7135, an ultra-thin, high-frequency motion that ticks to Rolex’s technical finesse. However even that breakthrough feels oddly subdued when wrapped in what many see as an aesthetic copy of the Tissot playbook.
The hype hit fever pitch when Federer teased it on Instagram. However what seemed like a year-defining achievement for the crown ended up feeling flat, particularly with rival manufacturers outshining Rolex throughout the board in Geneva.
As an alternative of main the cost, it appears like they’ve turned up late to the social gathering with a luxurious sports activities watch made for algorithm-friendly wrists and Instagram-ready flatlays. It’s not a nasty watch in any respect. Nevertheless it’s actually not Rolex’s crowning second. Is it unusual to say I’ll stick to the Tissot?
