On this installment of Exploring Evergreens, I’ve a more in-depth take a look at my very personal Panerai Radiomir. That is reference PAM00210, and I’d argue that that is prime Panerai. Whether or not you agree or not, that is an archetypal Radiomir, the essential form of which has been round since 1936. With hardly any aesthetic modifications made since then, I believe we are able to safely label this as an evergreen.
The Panerai PAM00210 is what we might name a neo-vintage reference. It was produced from 2005 till 2012, and mine is an early one which dates again to the primary 12 months of manufacturing. Be part of me as I discover how this Panerai has aged over the past twenty years and whether or not it’s nonetheless an interesting proposition in 2024.
True to the unique Panerai Radiomir design
So, why would I declare the PAM00210 is prime Panerai? That is all the way down to its faithfulness to the unique Radiomir from 1936. Granted, mine has been downsized by 2mm from the unique 47mm diameter. In any other case, although, it’s nearly an identical in design to the unique transformed Rolex pocket watches with their radioactive dials.
Now, staying true to the unique is barely to be applauded if the unique is any good. And, boy, is it! The Panerai Radiomir is a kind of immediately recognizable shapes that’s burnt onto the collective retina of thehorological group. Fascinatingly, it seems like a near-perfect, cohesive design when, in fact, it isn’t. There was by no means a consorted effort to “design” the Radiomir as such. It was a cushion-shaped Rolex pocket watch, turned on its aspect, with wire lugs soldered on. Solely the dial was typical for Panerai, which made radium-lumed sandwich dials for different diving instruments earlier than turning to watches.
The Panerai Radiomir, then, ought to appear like the wrist-mounted, time-telling equal of Frankenstein’s monster. However it doesn’t. It’s an object of sheer magnificence. It’s brutal and stylish on the identical time. There’s a pragmatic performance to it, enlivened with typical Italian aptitude. How can a hodgepodge army dive watch watch have sprezzatura? Go away it to the Italians.
PAM00210 — from easier instances
Panerai is a luxurious model below the Richemont group immediately. This implies trendy Panerai watches are not army diving instruments however luxurious vogue statements. And that signifies that most have been embellished with fancy options and decorations, from gold instances and vignette dials so far problems to minute-repeating tourbillons. There isn’t a model within the 2024 catalog that’s akin to the unique, barebones design.
So if you’d like that pre-WWII aesthetic, you’ll have to take a look at discontinued references. For those who, particularly, need a sandwich dial, a hand-wound caliber, no problems, two arms, and a black dial with minimal textual content, you’ll possible find yourself with the PAM00210.
Admittedly, Panerai was already a luxurious model in 2005. It was additionally already below the Richemont umbrella. The watches, nonetheless, tended to be easier, each technically and aesthetically. They nonetheless captured a bit of extra of that tool-watch vibe by their rudimentary calibers, rugged construct, and classical styling. As chances are you’ll know, Panerai had a reasonably bumpy street upmarket, alienating a few of its longtime followers. Immediately, the model is completely different. It produces improbable watches, sure, however not essentially within the spirit of the PAM00210 and its predecessors. Consequently, if that’s the Panerai you want, you haven’t any alternative however to go (neo-)classic.
What has aged nicely on the PAM00210?
It might come as no shock that I really feel that it’s at the beginning the PAM00210’s design that has aged completely. Almost 20 years after this reference’s introduction and nearly 90 years after the Radiomir’s authentic conception, it’s nonetheless stunning. You may put this Radiomir in the identical sentence because the Tank, Submariner, Reverso, and Speedmaster as a kind of watches that transcends its time.
Reference PAM00210, particularly, is an ideal trendy interpretation of the Radiomir. Though it measures 13mm thick, it seems considerably slimmer. The tapered case and shallow flanks mixed with a mildly domed sapphire crystal deal with that. These are modernizations of the unique, however they’re completely in character for the Radiomir. They nonetheless look equally classical and up to date in 2024.
One other factor that I significantly like about this watch is its lume. That is Tremendous-LumiNova, however it behaves reasonably apparently color-wise. There isn’t any precise fake patina, however in a sure gentle, it does seem to have a cream-like coloration. At different instances, it’s rather more pale inexperienced, trying extra trendy. It’s a unusual impact that I’ve by no means seen on some other watch, and it’s most likely an optical phantasm. Being a thick software of a contemporary compound, the dial and arms nonetheless gentle up like a torch at nighttime.
What “hasn’t aged so nicely” on the PAM00210?
I’m inclined to say that the PAM00210 continues to be good in 2024. Instances have modified, although. The Unitas 6497-based caliber OP X inside isn’t actually to immediately’s requirements anymore. Though it is rather good to have a look at by the outsized sapphire case again, it isn’t very finely completed.
The factor is, I don’t really feel it’s justified that it’s out of vogue. These actions are useless easy and very dependable. The facility reserve is a superbly fantastic 56 hours, and also you get a ravishing swan-neck regulator. I additionally discover the modified Panerai model reasonably visually engaging. It was even a COSC-certified chronometer within the PAM00210. An enormous bonus is that any first rate watchmaker can service it cheaply and rapidly.
To me, this sort of caliber is ideal for Panerai. I don’t see the model as a maker of Haute Horlogerie. I’ve written earlier than that I want Panerai would simply keep on with ébauche calibers and a cheaper price level. Nonetheless, I’d perceive if folks seemed on the PAM00210 and noticed a watch with an outdated motion. Suppose twice, although. It might be the higher proudly owning expertise!
Is the PAM00210 nonetheless an interesting purchase in 2024?
To reply this query, I believe we should always take a look at Panerai’s present choices. The Radiomir Officine PAM01383 is essentially the most primary Radiomir, with a worth of €5,000. The variations with PAM00210 are a blue sunburst dial, fake patina, a closed case again, a P.6000 caliber inside, and the dearth of a sandwich dial. If you’d like a sandwich dial (sadly solely obtainable in variations with vignette dials and patinated instances), you must transfer as much as the Tre Giorni fashions at €7,200. That could be a fairly steep leap for an extremely related watch with only a pre-aged case and a special dial texture.
Immediately, the €4K common worth of a pre-owned PAM00210 doesn’t appear so daunting anymore. You get the unique styling, a tank of a chronometer caliber, a sandwich dial, and no gildings. Your mileage could fluctuate, however to me, this can be a very interesting proposition. Then once more, I’d say so, having already put my cash the place my mouth is.
For all the explanations above, I really feel the Panerai Radiomir PAM00210 is an actual candy spot in immediately’s market. On a extra private be aware, I discovered it to be rather more wearable than anticipated besides. I’ve a 17cm wrist, however I don’t discover the 45mm Radiomir overpowering in any respect. I’d even go as far as to name it versatile. I totally anticipated to put on it on uncommon events solely, however I discover myself consistently reaching for it throughout the colder months after I put on leather-based straps.
Closing ideas
There isn’t any denying that the Panerai Radiomir is an evergreen watch. Whether or not the PAM00210 is its final incarnation is maybe extra subjective. It’s to me, although, and I’d choose it once more if I had to decide on my one favourite PAM.
What do you assume? Would this be the Radiomir you’d choose? If not, which wouldn’t it be?
