Some 25 kilometers north of Geneva, on the shore of town’s eponymous lake, lies the city of Nyon. That is the place that Renaud Tixier, the newest Swiss unbiased watch model launching at this time, calls its house. It’s the newest collaborative effort between Dominique Renaud — the famend watchmaker and co-founder of Renaud & Papi — and the proficient up-and-comer Julien Tixier. The mission’s ambition is to revisit and reinvent seven totally different rules of horology, making use of the pair’s creativity and know-how in a quest for mechanical innovation. It is a main declare for a model to make on the day of its inception. However if you happen to perceive precisely who stands behind it, expectations ought to certainly be excessive. The model’s debut watch, merely named the “Monday,” debuts at this time and already proves there’s good purpose to get excited.
It’s price noting that this isn’t Dominique and Julien’s first time teaming up. Readers would possibly do not forget that the pair labored collectively to create the exceptional Furlan Marri Secular Perpetual Calendar. Earlier than that, they collaborated on the equally spectacular GPHG-nominated DRT Tempus Fugit. Each of those tasks have been equal elements formidable and modern, showcasing their spectacular watchmaking chops and drive. The connection is formalized at this time, and a brand new unbiased Swiss model has been born. Renaud Tixier (the watchmaking duo’s namesake model) has launched its first effort to enhance a staple of watchmaking that has been round for the reason that mid-Nineteen Fifties — the micro-rotor.
A collaborative mission
Dominique Renaud is a well-known identify within the Swiss watch trade. He’s greatest referred to as a former Audemars Piguet watchmaker who co-founded the motion producer and developer Renaud & Papi alongside Giulio Papi in 1986. The corporate, later bought by AP, has made a notable impression because of its quite a few contributions to the watch trade. You’ll be able to learn extra about it right here.
Born in 1993, Julien Tixier has already made fairly a reputation for himself. Calling him an up-and-comer is widespread follow, nevertheless it certainly gained’t be for for much longer. Having additionally been dubbed “one of many most interesting watchmakers of this technology,” Tixier has a well-earned fame. You’ll be able to learn extra about him and his growth as a watchmaker right here.
The Renaud Tixier Monday is the primary of seven tasks the model goals to deal with. Whether or not the choice to call each after a day of the week got here after lengthy hours within the atelier listening to The Remedy’s 1992 single “Friday I’m in Love” or not is one thing we will solely speculate on. Regardless, it offers framework for the model’s mission. The 2 males boast a long time of watchmaking experience and share a style for innovation. Of their phrases, they intention to “re-think the basics of micromechanics and apply modern ideas to elementary watchmaking rules which have been taken without any consideration and infrequently remained unchallenged.” However don’t anticipate tough prototypes. The concept is to create actions that aren’t solely mechanically beautiful but in addition aesthetically so.
However they don’t intend to maintain these to themselves. Although Renaud Tixier’s creations will likely be restricted, the broader enterprise behind the model will look to broaden and open its doorways to working with third events, sharing their experience and partnering with them in growth and manufacturing.
Reinventing the micro-rotor
Although it has been disputed which model was first, Common Genève and Buren pioneered micro-rotor expertise in watchmaking. Over time, these miniature oscillating weights turned a staple of excessive horology. It is because they permit calibers to be thinner and impede fewer parts, offering higher views of the actions. When you’d wish to learn extra concerning the historical past of the routinely winding watch, together with the early days of the micro-rotor, I extremely suggest you take a look at Brandon’s in depth piece on the topic.
Mike’s Common Genève Microtor
However why does the micro-rotor require reinvention? Properly, tiny rotors have by no means been the very best at absolutely winding a watch successfully. As a result of lowered mass and distance from the pivoting level, they wrestle to create sufficient drive to beat the mainspring’s torque even at partial capability. Micro-rotors are additionally extra delicate, and their development is much extra advanced. Dominique Renaud set his sights on fixing the difficulty. Step one was to determine its supply outdoors the aforementioned mechanical limitations.
The Buren 1000 caliber, labeled because the Hamilton 663 — Picture: Unwind In Time
Because it seems, the amplitude of motion required for the micro-rotor to perform correctly and the small, jolting actions we naturally topic them to in on a regular basis put on should not ideally appropriate. In truth, they typically cease the rotor altogether. Renaud needed to discover a solution to harness even the smallest actions and have them contribute to the rotor’s winding. And he set out to take action the watchmaker’s method — counting on micromechanics and dealing throughout the restricted house out there to him. Because it seems, this was the interior perimeter of the rotor itself.
A chic answer
What Dominique Renaud envisioned as an answer may greatest be described as a propeller powered by a specifically designed spring. This development, which he nicknamed the “dancer,” was constructed into the rotor and serves two capabilities. The primary is as an “engine,” making certain that the micro-rotor will get a lift of vitality (utilizing a spring and flywheel). The second is a shock absorber, additional defending this in any other case delicate development from harsh shocks. The model explains the reasonably advanced method during which it operates as follows:
“A big spiral connects the central axis to the modern mechanism, appearing as a catapult. One other spring arm extends from the axis in the wrong way: a type of foot with a heel, which hits a cease within the occasion of a extreme shock, serving because the shock absorber. On the axis, the spring operates like a notched clamp, with an higher jaw formed like a hanger. This hanger acts as an lively security machine: it’s inflexible below regular situations and secures the flywheel to the axis. Within the occasion of a shock, the foot hits the cease and presses on the hanger, which disengages from the axis and the repositions as soon as the shock has handed and saved vitality is launched.”
Tixier stepped in, treading into unmapped watchmaking territory, turning concept into actuality. First, he created a large-scale mechanism mannequin, then a watch prototype. However was the hunt profitable? Properly, once more, within the model’s phrases: “On the mannequin, there isn’t any doubt that the mechanism enhances the effectivity of the micro-rotor. This enchancment is predicted to be confirmed by the watch prototype. By how a lot? It is too early to say: no present management device is able to quantifying the distinction it can make.“
The Renaud Tixier Monday
Up to now, we’ve centered on the watch’s spectacular mechanical attributes and probably groundbreaking innovation. However what are the traits of the watch itself? The Renaud Tixier Monday contains a classically styled 40.8mm 5N+ rose gold or white gold case with deeply textured, hand-engraved ridges alongside its sides. The watch is 11mm thick and has sapphire crystals on each the back and front. It has a 30m water resistance ranking and will likely be delivered on both a calfskin or alligator strap in black, chocolate, or navy blue with matching stitching and a pin buckle product of the identical gold because the case. Its sunburst dial is available in both silver or darkish grey. An utilized brand and 9 utilized markers match the case’s gold alloy, as do its flippantly skeletonized, slim dauphine arms. A barely raised rehaut holds the white minute observe on the dial’s perimeter.
Different notable options embody a graduated small seconds sub-dial with a rose gold body at 4 o’clock and a gap to the motion’s micro-rotor at 9 o’clock. On the again, a slim outer ring surrounding a sapphire crystal is held in place with seven screws. This gives a full view of the beautiful RTVI2023 motion. This caliber is the work of Julien Tixier’s artisanal watchmaking. Reverse the keyless works, you’ll see the supercharged micro-rotor with its crescent-moon-style bridge. To the decrease left of that’s the palladium-spring-equipped steadiness. As you may think, this caliber is completed and adorned to the very best diploma attainable. This contains hand beveling, black-polished titanium, and a mainspring cowl that includes hand engraving and Grand Feu enamel. It gives 60+ hours of energy reserve and consists of 315 parts, together with 30 jewels.
Remaining ideas
As you may think, this work of artisanal watchmaking has a price ticket to match its ambitions. The worth is estimated to be about CHF 79,000 (roughly €83,300 or US$89,750) earlier than taxes. I discover it similar to somebody who labored for a automotive model like Pagani or Koenigsegg making a model and providing an idea automotive on the market. There will likely be an viewers on the market, however for me, it’s simply one thing I can admire for the mission’s spirit and ambitions alone. When it comes to manufacturing output, the model estimates that solely 62 watches will likely be produced in whole. Renaud Tixier will make use of the help of two further watchmakers, who’re at present in coaching for the duty.
Monday is the primary of seven such tasks, which means that we’ll be retaining a detailed eye on what the Nyon-based model will get as much as subsequent. However earlier than that, we’ll have an opportunity to go to the atelier for a hands-on overview of the watch and to be taught extra from Dominique and Julien. To observe together with Renaud Tixier’s upcoming developments, take a look at the official web site and observe the model on Instagram.
