Is Harris Tweed Value It? (Iconic Scottish Material Assessment)

With regards to figuring out the standard of tweed, few signifiers are as extremely thought to be these of the Harris Tweed Authority. However is that this seal of approval actually all it’s cracked as much as be?

To begin answering this query, let’s first dive into the historical past of Harris Tweed.

Historical past of Harris Tweed

Harris Tweed isn’t truly a model per se however moderately a gaggle of mills that banded collectively within the twentieth century to ascertain a benchmark for high quality tweed. True Harris Tweed is woven and completed by skilled weavers within the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. The truth is, the phrase “tweed” itself comes from Hawick, Scotland, round 1826, the place bales of “tweels” (twill, woolen materials) have been bought.

In accordance with legend, a clerk for Scottish-born London importer James Locke misinterpret the label on one in all these tweels as “tweeds.” That is most likely as a result of the mills have been near the “River Tweed” in Scotland, and the title has caught ever since. Quickly, different makers have been making an attempt to weave the fashion themselves with imported mill-spun yarn from the mainland.

Defending the Harris Tweed Title

Retailers on the island of Lewis & Harris fought to register and defend the usage of the time period “tweed” as coming from simply their island. Nonetheless, the Scottish courts decided that each one islands inside the Outer Hebrides might use the time period tweed. Nonetheless, the title Harris Tweed was chosen to guard all mills inside the province within the yr 1909. They’re protected underneath the Orb Trademark, that includes a globe topped by a Maltese Cross and 13 jewels. This, by the best way, is claimed to be the UK’s oldest certification mark.

Following gear modernization and a 1993 Act of Parliament, the previous Harris Tweed Affiliation Restricted was rechristened the Harris Tweed Authority. Though there have been 7 million yards of Harris Tweed produced in 1966, by the yr 2006, that quantity was down to only 700,000. Regardless of its authorized protections, Harris Tweed nonetheless needed to compete within the market.

  Harris Tweed Orb Trademark

A certification mark that ensures the authenticity and high quality of Harris Tweed cloth. This trademark is just awarded to tweed that’s handwoven by islanders at their properties within the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, utilizing pure virgin wool dyed and spun within the Outer Hebrides. It ensures that the material meets the excessive requirements set by the Harris Tweed Authority, preserving the normal strategies and heritage of this iconic Scottish cloth.

Challenges and Modifications within the Business

A Shift in Manufacturing

Within the winter of 2006, veteran textile service provider Brian Haggas bought the Kenneth McKenzie Mill, which produced 95% of the Harris Tweed at the moment. Haggas reduce the variety of patterns produced from over 8,000 to simply 4, outsourcing some manufacturing components to China with a main give attention to effectivity. He additionally carried out a “just-in-time” ordering system the place he might provide any retailer with any measurement and amount of Harris tweed jacket in a matter of just a few hours.

Nonetheless, these modifications didn’t result in the specified gross sales development, and sadly, layoffs adopted. Throughout this era, two different key gamers entered the scene: New York actual property magnate Alan Bain and former British commerce Minister Brian Wilson. Every of them bought one of many remaining historic Harris Tweed mills. This resulted in a major consolidation of the trade, leaving solely two small mills to provide the world’s complete provide of genuine Harris Tweed – a mere 5% of what was produced earlier than Haggas’s acquisition.

In the meantime, conventional material distributors had scoured the countryside for small stashes of essentially the most colourful tweeds.An enormous stash of lots of the 8,000-odd variations, together with experimental varieties, was present in one warehouse, discarded by Haggas’s order. This treasure trove of forgotten tweeds supplied a helpful supply of inspiration for the 2 surviving mills, permitting them to attract upon the wealthy heritage of Harris Tweed.

Harris Tweed’s Comeback

A advertising Renaissance additionally emerged, with the Harris Tweed Authority courting many trend manufacturers with the historical past, richness, and romantic enchantment of their garments. In 2019, Haggas handed the management of the Kenneth McKenzie Mill to managing director Alex Lockerby, who was domestically born in Stornoway.

By this time, the mill had rebounded and was answerable for roughly 38% of Harris Tweed manufacturing, with the opposite two mills producing the remaining 62%. So, though the historical past of Harris Tweed was considerably altered in 2006, this storied material remains to be round for us to get pleasure from right this moment!

How Is Harris Tweed Made

Because it says on the label, Harris Tweed is “Handwoven within the Outer Hebrides from 100% wool,” with another variations relying on the age of the garment. The tweed was additionally traditionally hand-spun, although technological developments rendered this method inefficient and, in the end, out of date. Varied clothes producers use this cloth as the fabric for his or her jackets and tailoring.

Varieties of Harris Tweed

Other than the preferred spongy, dry, and furry variations of tweed, there are additionally different varieties. This would come with the thornproof tweed used for looking and sporting. The wool for Harris Tweed is especially harvested from the Cheviot and Scottish blackface sorts of sheep on the islands of the Outer Hebrides. Elevated demand, although, has meant that 100% virgin wool from elsewhere in Britain, Australia, and New Zealand can also be used right this moment.

The Dyeing Course of

The wool is dyed in varied colours to be woven into advanced coloration and sample combos. The dying course of isn’t like most weaving, the place the yarns are dyed, however as a substitute, the fleece itself is dyed earlier than being spun into yarns. As soon as completed, the wool is put into an enormous spin and tumble dryer till the entire moisture has been eliminated. The wool is separated into 30 base colours, which function the “key elements” when patterns are created.

Probably the most conventional tweed patterns are the so-called “property tweeds.” Traditionally, these have been the uniform patterns of the lords, women, and staff of a given property, which the mill then trademarked. A enjoyable truth for you: whereas tartans are for your complete clan or household line, these property tweeds are only for the estates or the properties themselves.

How Harris Tweed Will get its Distinctive Hues

The 30 base colours are weighed out in several quantities to find out which coloration and sample might be created. The strands are kneaded collectively in order that nobody coloration is dominant. This creates a singular coloration in and of itself, and it considerably resembles an enormous cake batter. When these totally different mixes are introduced collectively, that is what provides tweeds their radiant coloration combos. The wanted fleece is dropped right into a vacuum tube and damaged up into smaller clumps, the place it’s blown round by what is actually an enormous “leaf blower” till the colours are totally blended and integrated. [Image credit: TartanKiltsByScotweb]

Hand-spun for High quality and Character

Toothed rollers then tense and blend the material for extra incorporation and most sturdiness. Then, the threads are spun seven to 9 occasions to provide them optimum power. Tweed, not like worsted wool, retains each lengthy and quick fibers within the combine. That is what results in that signature furry really feel, in addition to these vigorous coloration combos.

In the meantime, worsteds simply hold their lengthy fibers and are combed for that tender, uniform texture. At this level, the yarns are placed on a loom to be woven and inspected for defects or weak factors. This course of is finished fully by hand to be thought of real Harris Tweed. Lastly, the material is washed once more to take away any remaining oils or impurities within the wool. [Image credit: TartanKiltsByScotweb]

Assembly the Harris Tweed Normal

As soon as the Tweed cloth is totally ready, it’s then appeared over by an inspector who provides “an accepted material” the official Harris Tweed seal of authority. The result’s a sturdy and sturdy tweed cloth that may final for many years of wear and tear and tear or one blended with softer fibers to create a extra up to date, comfort-first enchantment. [Image credit: TartanKiltsByScotweb]

Merchandise Produced from Harris Tweed

The Harris Tweed store gives quite a lot of merchandise on its web site, and most are issues that you’d most likely count on to see, like fits, sports activities coats, waistcoats, and informal jackets.

It’s value mentioning that right this moment, these clothes are likely to have a extra up to date reduce to them, that includes issues like narrower lapels, extra open quarters, and fewer padded shoulders, however at round $400 a jacket, it’s additionally possible that these are both half canvassed or totally fused clothes.

The Harris Tweed store additionally has some extra vintage-inspired gadgets out there, like plus fours or eight-panel flat caps. The store additionally gives gloves, dopp kits, pillows, residence items, and lots of different equipment that characteristic their signature Harris Tweed, in addition to their seal. This stuff is likely to be enjoyable to contemplate should you’re an enormous fan of the country aesthetic that tweed creates, however they’re most likely not going to provide you fairly as a lot mileage as extra traditional menswear clothes would.

In fact, we have now some totally different preferences for our gloves and equipment, however we is likely to be a bit biased. As talked about earlier, many different menswear producers, be they giant manufacturers or small tailoring outlets, additionally purchase Harris Tweed cloth to assemble their clothes. That is true of quite a few items in Raphael’s assortment, in addition to the jacket that I’m sporting right this moment.

Outfit Rundown

At this time, I’m sporting a jacket produced from Harris Tweed—this one is classic from the now-defunct British menswear retailer Hodges. The general really feel is of a medium taupe, however there are additionally tones of inexperienced, orange, yellow, brown, blue, and black, all within the barleycorn weave. The informal nature of the jacket can also be accented by its brown soccer buttons, and every sleeve options only one button on the cuff.

This jacket is a model new acquisition for my wardrobe on the time of filming this video, so I haven’t even had an opportunity to get it tailor-made but. Below the jacket, I’m sporting a lightweight blue Oxford material button-down shirt—this one can also be classic, and I inherited it from my late grandfather.

It encompasses a comparatively lengthy spear level button-down collar, which supplies a superb body for exhibiting off the ascot I’m sporting right this moment. This silk ascot from our model, Fort Belvedere, options a big paisley sample in tones of burgundy, purple, blue, and inexperienced, with a considerably purplish character in sure spots as effectively. These colours are additionally echoed in my linen pocket sq., that includes tones of blue and burgundy. My trousers are plain brown, although they do characteristic a reddish undertone, which additionally harmonizes with the colour palette.

My belt and sneakers are each medium brown, and the sneakers are wing-tipped brogue derbies that characteristic no medallion on the toe cap. Rounding issues out right this moment are my two-tone shadow striped socks in tan and navy blue and the perfume I’m sporting right this moment, which is Inexperienced Irish Tweed from Creed. This one, in fact, appeared particularly acceptable.

And, in fact, I’m sporting one in all my trusty short-brimmed fedoras, this one in mustard brown. Talking of equipment, should you’re within the ascot, pocket sq., and socks I’m sporting, in addition to all kinds of different traditional males’s equipment, corduroy trousers, and fragrances from the Robert Ugolini assortment, you’ll want to take a look at the Fort Belvedere store right here.

Fort Belvedere

Brown Paisley Silk Ascot

Fort Belvedere

Blue X-Sew Edge Burgundy Pocket Sq.

Fort Belvedere

Navy & Yellow Shadow Stripe Cotton Socks

Harris Tweed Past Conventional Menswear

It’s not simply conventional menswear outfitters that use Harris Tweed, although. The material has additionally discovered a spot in womenswear, and most contemporarily, the MLB has partnered with Harris Tweed for a line of wool baseball caps. When you’re in search of a considerably extra refined baseball cap, this is likely to be a sensible choice for you, however in fact, a flat cap or panel cap could be a extra strictly traditional selection.

Nonetheless, we do admire that traditional manufacturers are discovering other ways to increase their attain, and if one in all these baseball caps is what will get you into a material like Harris Tweed, after which from there, into traditional menswear, then a lot the higher.

Total, if development strategies are essential to you, then we’d counsel solely shopping for from trusted makers who use Harris Tweed or shopping for the material immediately and taking it to a trusted tailor your self. This fashion, you may get precisely the fashion you need and in addition tackle components like full canvassing should you so want.

We imagine that the Harris Tweed store gives their smaller equipment for honest costs general; nevertheless, a number of the different supplies they use, like leather-based, are usually cheaper, so that you is likely to be higher off discovering devoted equipment and small merchandise from different retailers.

So, Is Harris Tweed Value It?

Firstly, of course, it will depend on what you’re in search of. With Harris Tweed, you’re sometimes going to be getting a fiber-dyed, heavier-weight garment that’s good for the colder months of the yr due to the processes used to make it. You’re going to get a wealthy coloration depth that not solely seems to be good by itself however can also be simpler to pair with different colours elsewhere in your outfit.

Total, should you see the Harris Tweed label, you’ll be able to relaxation assured that you’re shopping for what’s, typically, a superb product.

Classic Harris Tweed Is Higher

That being mentioned, not all Harris Tweed is alike as a result of fashionable Harris Tweed tends to be fairly a bit totally different from classic Harris Tweed. Any material produced underneath the auspices of the Harris Tweed Authority needs to be of top of the range, particularly should you’re shopping for from a pre-2006 classic. So, in this fashion, the fabric is “value it” typically. As talked about earlier than, shopping for the fabric immediately and having it made right into a garment by a trusted tailor might be your best assure of high quality.

There’s a sturdy provide of classic Harris Tweed out there, however as with the rest, be aware of the styling conventions as there are many secondhand Harris Tweed jackets on the market, notably from the Nineteen Eighties and ’90s, that have been reduce in boxy kinds with issues like heart vents. In the meantime, a jacket with a half belt or capturing pleats will most likely be a bit tougher to search out, and also you’ll most likely wish to think about the odors from classic tweed clothes.

What to Search for When Shopping for Harris Tweed

Concerning manufactured clothes, your mileage might fluctuate. Whether or not they’re from the Harris Tweed store or every other vendor, you’ll must assess the standard of their development independently. In Raphael’s expertise, as an example, he’s discovered that Harris Tweed is usually a superb materials for jackets like sports activities coats, Norfolk jackets, or looking jackets with recreation pockets.

When to Select (and Keep away from) Harris Tweed

With regards to hats or equipment, Harris Tweed will typically look the half however will most likely put on out a bit sooner, particularly for handheld or dealt with equipment versus hats, than one thing produced from high-quality leather-based, as an example.

harris tweed:

Sturdy but not with out limits

Regardless that it’s a hardy cloth, it’ll ultimately put on out should you put on it arduous. Because of this so many jackets have elbow patches, in spite of everything. Usually, Harris Tweed additionally isn’t essentially ultimate for pants and trousers as its coarse and scratchy really feel, in addition to its heavy weight, received’t be notably snug for some.

In fact, you definitely can get trousers in Harris Tweed, and also you’ll most likely even need them for a correct capturing go well with, as an example, however simply just be sure you have a correct lining put in.

Building Issues

So, in the end, this evaluation is considerably totally different than many of the different installments on this sequence, as we are able to actually solely communicate to the important high quality of the Harris Tweed material itself. As with every buy, the entire is made up of supplies on one hand and development on the opposite.

Phrasing this one other method, gold is definitely a helpful materials by itself, however on condition that it is malleable and tender, it will be a very poor option to be made right into a shovel. Remember the fact that totally different retailers are going to have variations in pricing, in addition to use their personal cuts and kinds.

As a hearty, rugged material, Harris Tweed or any tweed might be higher suited to cooler climates and more durable sporting giant clothes as a substitute of small equipment.

Remaining Verdict

To sum all of this up, you’re going to have to make use of your menswear information to find out if a particular garment produced from Harris Tweed is one thing that you just wish to add to your assortment. However, typically, the Harris Tweed material itself is of top of the range, and we discover it to be value it.

With that mentioned, what are your experiences with Harris Tweed, both the fabric itself or clothes produced from it? Tell us within the feedback!