We love London for a lot of causes, however largely as a result of it throws up stuff like this: Supperclub.tube – a full-on positive eating expertise set inside a Nineteen Sixties Victoria Line Tube carriage. It’s the sort of factor that seems like a gimmick till you attempt it. And then you definitely’re questioning why you’ve by no means had ceviche on the Central Line earlier than.
Tucked away within the barely unhinged setting of the Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum
– suppose crimson trains, industrial leftovers and a few glorious avenue artwork en route – Supperclub.tube is the brainchild of Nick Atkins, who ran a supper membership out of his Islington dwelling earlier than relocating the challenge into this barely surreal area.
Why a tube prepare? Truthfully, I’ve no concept. There’s no apparent hyperlink between fashionable Latin-American delicacies and the Nineteen Sixties carriage, which meant the expertise wasn’t fully cohesive. Nonetheless, the carriage has the unique Tube seats, signage, and TFL vibes. However as an alternative of being jammed up in opposition to a bloke consuming crisps at 7am, you’ll be sipping prosecco and tucking right into a six-course tasting menu.
The kitchen is led by Colombian chef Beatriz Maldonado Carreño – Bea to everybody on board – whose background in high-end eating places and supper golf equipment throughout Latin America brings critical depth and ability to the menu.
You possibly can be a part of a communal desk of twelve (pictured on the high of the web page), which turns into the sort of banquet the place you allow with full bellies and some new mates, however we settled for a non-public desk for 2.
Bea introduces the meal in the beginning of the night. She doesn’t do the total guided tour of each course – fortunately – however she does set the tone, letting diners know they’re about to eat their approach across the continent, with corn showing in nearly each dish as a nod to Latin America’s culinary roots.
Bea’s meals is next-level. The six-course tasting menu on our go to began with a ‘corn feast’ – yellow corn cake, sweetcorn salsa, blue corn tostadas, confit child corn, and a wealthy sweetcorn and rum cream. It seems like numerous corn (it’s), however the stability of textures was spot on – crisp tostadas, easy cream, and a tender, savoury cake.
Then got here pan de bono con chorizo: chewy cassava bread with slices of Colombian-style chorizo and a pointy coriander aji. Course three, a citrusy Ecuadorian ceviche of lime-cured cod, spring onions and rocoto chilli, had us mopping the plate with bread like whole converts.
The principle asado course introduced the wow issue: juicy rump of beef and hen thighs, each completely cooked, alongside cassava chips (crispy, crunchy little miracle), chimichurri, and roasted veg.
A palate cleanser got here subsequent – passionfruit ice dome with chocolate soil – zingy, sharp, and genuinely refreshing. Dessert was a Colombian tres leches sponge with mora mousse and coulis: mild, candy, and the proper ending to a spectacular meal.
QR codes on the desk allow you to discover the substances intimately (and reply the inevitable query: “What’s this once more?”), however most individuals on board appeared joyful to easily tuck in and chat.
The entire expertise is bizarre in the very best approach – cosy, full of life, and correctly scrumptious.
The carriage may get your consideration, however it’s the meals that retains you speaking.
What: Supperclub.tubeHow a lot: From £73 per personAverage Joes ranking: ★★★★☆
