Mikko Nieminen studies…
Pics: Geoff Hill and Mikko Nieminen
The Antrim Coast Street is likely one of the high rides within the UK, however I’d be mendacity if I stated that this was an incredible winter journey from begin to end. Not as a result of the coast highway itself isn’t nice (it truly is!), however as a result of I needed to get there first, and I used to be within the English Midlands. With time being of the essence, that meant an extended slog on motorways to get to the place I needed to be.
Advert
Take pleasure in every little thing Extra Bikes by studying the month-to-month newspaper, Learn FREE On-line.
Slowly however absolutely issues did enhance although. I had picked a Stena Line crossing from Cairnryan in Scotland to Belfast in Northern Eire, and as soon as I had stated goodbye to the motorways that took me from England to Scotland, the A75 to the coast was an enormous enchancment. It’s a giant, quick highway that at instances affords wild views of the Irish Sea whereas serving probably the most scrumptious set of bends. It’s troublesome to focus on each the highway and the surroundings on the identical time. Issues have been bettering, for certain.
I had been fortunate with the climate many of the method, however by the point I received to the ferry terminal in Cairnryan it was raining. And as quickly as we set sail, the captain introduced that the crossing could be a tough one, with gale-force winds blowing over the Irish Sea.
It wasn’t too dangerous, although. The ferry ploughed by way of the waves, gently swaying, which made me extra sleepy than nervous… till I began Googling Belfast sights and received to the Titanic Museum. I shortly moved on…
Advert
Speaking in regards to the crossing, right here’s a professional tip: The Stena Line ferries are stuffed with issues to do from procuring to cinema, and all method of eating choices, so that you received’t get bored, however the good cash goes for the Stena+ lounge entry. It solely prices £20 however contains cozy seating plus all of the snacks and drinks you may handle. You’ve over two hours to get your cash’s price, so principally it pays for itself.
The Antrim Coast Street takes lower than a day to do, however with photograph stops and potential detours, I needed to provide it a full day. Additionally, that gave me the right excuse to remain at my mate Geoff Hill’s place in Belfast earlier than hitting the highway. I actually want Geoff ran his place as an Airbnb, so extra individuals may take pleasure in it. He has a correct Finnish sauna; he tells fabulous tales from his travels; and he retains relentlessly filling your glass till you see it in double imaginative and prescient, and also you realise it’s most likely greatest to not decide it up anymore. Sadly, I can’t lengthen the invite to you all to go and stick with him, however you may take pleasure in his terrific writing and interesting tales in his motorbike journey books (do a fast Amazon search).
In the event you ask the Northern Irish visitors planning authorities, the primary rule of selling the Antrim Coast Street is that you simply don’t speak in regards to the Antrim Coast Street. As a substitute, as you’ll quickly discover on all of the highway indicators guiding your method round it, you speak in regards to the Causeway Coastal Route. I’m certain that many essential individuals attended many essential branding conferences earlier than that occurred. However I digress…
Advert
Geoff and I began the journey from Belfast, following the coast north. There are a few methods to get to Larne from Belfast, nevertheless it doesn’t actually matter an excessive amount of which method you select, because it’s from Larne onwards that the attention-grabbing little bit of the route begins.
As quickly as you allow Larne, the Antrim Coast Street opens up. It follows the coast as near the water as you probably can, offering fantastic views of the Irish Sea. There are light corners that appear to be hanging over the ocean, little tunnels by way of the cliffs, and a way of freedom you solely get this near the seaside.
Driving just isn’t quick right here. The highway just isn’t actually suited to hurry, and it goes by way of quite a few villages. The most effective factor to do is to only take it straightforward and benefit from the views.
Advert
You’re tempted to cease and take pictures at virtually each bend and each village, however Geoff and I managed to push on till Carnlough earlier than leaping off our bikes and sniffing the air for a brew. By the way, that is the place yow will discover the Londonderry Arms Lodge, as soon as owned by Winston Churchill, proper on the principle avenue. Nonetheless, that was no good to us because it was closed on Mondays, and it was certainly Monday after we knocked on the door. To not fear, we picked a café by the little harbour, simply in time to dive in earlier than the rain caught up with us.
By the point we have been out once more the rain had gone, and we continued north in superb sunshine. The subsequent cease was at Cushendun, a village with Cornish-style homes designed by Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis. Not fairly what you’d count on to see in Northern Eire…
Our journey took a bit of diversion from the Antrim Coast Street to include a little bit of the Torr Head Path to get to Murlough Bay, a good looking and splendidly quiet little spot on the finish of a single-track highway. It’s a detour from the principle highway, little doubt about that, nevertheless it’s one undoubtedly price taking.
The Torr Head Route is sweet driving, too, though I couldn’t assist myself laughing many of the method as a result of they’ve diligently painted a dashed white line in the midst of the highway, although at instances you couldn’t even match a motorbike in your ‘lane’, not to mention a automobile. I suppose that there had been a time when council cash wanted spending shortly…
From Murlough Bay we picked our approach to Ballycastle for some important procuring: Dulse. In the event you look it up, the definition of dulse is one thing alongside ‘a darkish purple edible seaweed with flattened branching fronds’, however in plain phrases it’s very like consuming a home plant sprinkled with salt. But, one way or the other, in small portions, it’s truly fairly good.
With our bellies stuffed with seaweed, we continued alongside the coast. This stretch from Ballycastle to the tip of our route is totally peppered with issues to see, and if you wish to be sure to don’t miss something, a day won’t be sufficient.
Our first cease after Ballycastle was Ballintoy Harbour. It’s just a bit skip off the route, and properly price taking. The shoreline seems to be rugged and unforgiving, and on a chilly winter’s day you marvel how badly individuals will need to have needed to get out to the ocean to construct a harbour right here. Simply the considered it gave me the chills, and I made certain my heated jacket and gloves have been on full blast after we set off once more. It could definitely take a really calm and heat day for me to need to sail wherever close to right here.
The principle attraction round this a part of the nation is in little doubt. The Large’s Causeway attracts the crowds from close to and much. Most pays £10 to park on the customer centre and stroll or take a shuttle bus to the stone formations. Nothing flawed with that, however simply as simply you may park subsequent door on the Causeway Lodge. It prices the identical £10 for vehicles to park there, however our two bikes fitted in a single parking place, so we solely paid that between us, and the factor is that should you go and have drinks or meals on the lodge, you get the parking off your invoice. So, you park, have a sandwich, after which wander all the way down to the stones. Good!
The Large’s Causeway is product of about 40,000 interlocking stone columns. Whether or not they have been stacked there by an historic volcanic eruption or quarrelling giants is up for debate, however both method, it’s a powerful sight.
After the causeway, the following apparent place to cease is the previous Bushmills distillery, simply down the highway. Probably the oldest distillery on the planet, it has an incredible store and pre-booked excursions in case you are into your whiskey.
Our authentic plan had been to proceed to Portrush and Portstewart earlier than turning again in direction of Belfast, however we had been dawdling, it was getting late, and there was nonetheless someplace we needed to see earlier than heading residence. So, we deserted the coast and headed south to Ballymoney and Joey’s Bar, a spot that was once owned by none aside from Joey Dunlop. Crammed with racing historical past, the bar is properly situated if you wish to discover the NW200 route.
From Ballymoney we opted for the fast path to Belfast, as a result of even when the driving is sweet, you have to find time for a post-ride sauna, too. And it’s not each day you get to try this in Belfast.
However, sauna or no sauna, the Antrim Coast Street is likely one of the most interesting routes to journey at any time of the 12 months. However simply because it’s so good, driving it in winter signifies that there are so much fewer individuals on the roads and crowding the points of interest on the roadside. All you have to do is dig out your heated jacket and gloves, e book a crossing, and off you go. And should you do, ship us a postcard!
Northern Eire has some glorious routes on supply, with the Antrim Coast Street an ideal winter journey.
The journey briefly: The route covers roads nice and small. This isn’t a quick journey; the roads could be busy, and they’re greatest loved at a leisurely tempo. There are many locations to cease alongside the best way for coffees, tradition, or a really chilly dip within the sea. Give your self a full day for this journey, which sits a bit of underneath 100 miles all in.