In its Signature Assortment, Wempe presents particular restricted editions of watches created in collaboration with the manufacturers the famend retailer sells. This assortment already consists of some handsome particular editions of well-known watch fashions, such because the Breitling Navitimer. Now it’s Ulysse Nardin’s flip with the Diver Web Wempe Signature Assortment.
Becoming the season, this unique version of Ulysse Nardin’s Diver Web mannequin options vibrant orange accents and an identical strap. Nacho and Jorg launched the Azure and OPS editions of Ulysse Nardin’s divers, which differ enormously. The brand new Signature Assortment version impressively reveals how versatile this mannequin is. Wempe lent me the look ahead to an prolonged weekend so I may discover it intimately.
Orange, like a sundown in paradise
Jorg described many particulars of the Diver Web in his article on the OPS version. Due to this fact, I’ll attempt to not repeat every little thing however focus on the variations and spotlight some particulars that piqued my curiosity. Not like the OPS version specifically, on which one coloration dominates the entire watch, the Diver Web Wempe Signature Assortment is available in a mix of orange and black. Whereas orange accents on the dial and the bezel jolly up the look of the watch head, the orange strap completes the bundle.
The feel of the black dial is hardly seen in most lighting situations. When looking for one thing as an instance the construction of this floor, the one becoming affiliation that got here to my thoughts was goosebumps. Skinny orange traces discreetly define the vertically brushed letter X throughout the dial’s heart. The hour indexes at 1, 5, 6, 7, and 11 o’clock are printed to intervene with the X as little as potential, and the opposite hour indexes are utilized.
The indexes and hour and minute fingers present a reasonable quantity of blue lume at midnight. Nevertheless, the orange-filled fingers on the sub-dials don’t gentle up. The weird form of the hour and minute fingers with a cultured rhodium-finished heart line gives a surprisingly actual studying. Like Jorg, I discover the date window built-in fairly properly into the small seconds sub-dial. The facility reserve indicator at 12 is a sensible characteristic for a dive watch as properly. Fortunately, regardless of the numerous particulars on the dial, the readability is nice.
To dive or to not dive
It’s frequent to listen to that the deepest most dive watches will go is the underside of a tub. At the moment, hardly anybody makes use of dive watches for diving. I, nonetheless, realized learn how to dive when dive computer systems weren’t but commonplace. Again then, divers took a depth gauge, a decompression desk, and a dive watch with them to make sure a secure dive. Due to this fact, for me, a dive watch is a diving instrument in the beginning, not a sportive vogue accent. Because of this, it issues to me whether or not a dive watch is appropriate as a diving instrument.
The Carbonium insert of the bezel of the Diver Web Wempe Signature Assortment gives an fascinating and strange view. Nevertheless, the irregular marbled background impairs the readability of the markings. The numbers 0, 15, 30, and 45 on the bezel illuminate just like the hour and minute fingers. So, a minimum of in darkness, the swirly Carbonium has no unfavourable impact. When beginning a dive, a diver will align the bezel’s zero place with the minute hand. Throughout the dive, the present place of the minute hand signifies the elapsed dive time alongside the bezel. Utilizing the numeral 0 because the index for the zero place will not be optimum as a result of no tip clearly reveals the precise place. This inconvenience is even worse together with the ineffective 120 click on positions of the bezel, which solely complicate the setting process and improve the likelihood of a false studying.
The bezel does provide a superb grip and produces vibrant, audible clicks when turning it. Nevertheless, the ratchet is somewhat too easy, and it’s simple to knock the bezel out of its exact place with a slight jolt.
Tying the Diver Web Wempe Signature Assortment to the wrist
The strap in vibrant orange completes the summer time vibes of the Diver Web Wempe Signature Assortment. This rubber strap may be very supple. The ceramic insert within the decrease a part of the strap carries the Wempe brand as a substitute of the Ulysse Nardin signature as on the common fashions. I like this element. For these within the know, the Wempe brand is instantly recognizable, whereas for others, it seems like an summary image. A black model of this strap with the identical ceramic insert comes with the watch.
The particular black screws on the outer sides of the case fasten the aspect elements manufactured from a mixture of Nylo and Carbonium to the metal core. For the reason that strap is held by frequent spring bars, it may be modified with a traditional strap-changing instrument. The signed butterfly clasp manufactured from ceramic and titanium seems extraordinarily delicate. I’d wish to belief that Ulysse Nardin examined it to be acceptable to be used on a sports activities watch. When closed, the folding clasp seems to be like a pin buckle. You open it by urgent the small spherical pushers on the base of the buckle half. This folding clasp by no means opened unintentionally after I wore the watch.
The motor inside
The show again of the Diver Web Wempe Signature Assortment affords a sexy view of Ulysse Nardin’s caliber UN-118. As ornament, we discover round stripes on the bridges and perlage on the bottom plate. There are additionally some good, broad bevels on the sides of the bridges and accentuated sinks for the jewels and screws. You could find blued screws alongside the rim of the motion and three of them to lock the open-worked and vertically brushed rotor. The motion elements should not completed by hand, however that’s not the purpose of this motion. Regardless that it seems to be somewhat engaging and the rotor is designed to disclose most of it, the energy of the UN-118 lies within the supplies used.
Ulysse Nardin was the primary watch model to ascertain silicon as a cloth for motion elements on an industrial degree. The Freak not solely grew to become well-known for its distinctive design but additionally for the applying of silicon elements. Within the UN-118, the anchor and escape wheel are manufactured from DiamonSil, which is silicon coated with a skinny layer of synthetic diamond. The anticipated advantages of such a cloth embody extraordinarily exact and reproducible manufacturing, much less put on, and fewer friction. An proprietor of a watch containing a motion together with elements of such a cloth ought to expertise longer service intervals. The hairspring is manufactured from high-quality silicon, which is antimagnetic and comparatively simple to supply.
Sporting the Diver Web Wempe Signature Assortment
To me, this version of Ulysse Nardin’s Diver Web is well probably the most engaging. It’s a fantastic summer time watch that gives sufficient well-designed particulars to not turn into boring. If you wish to tame its look a bit, you possibly can put it on the black strap that comes with the watch. With its 44mm diameter and 14.81mm thickness, this watch is large and wears that manner. When you fear concerning the lug-to-lug size, it’s too large for you. The wrist shot reveals it on my presently 19.5cm (7.7″) wrist. Because of the trendy supplies accompanying the interior metal case, the watch is comparatively gentle and comfy. The signed titanium screw-down crown affords a superb grip and facilitates simple operation of the watch.
The truth that the Nylo and Carbonium used for the perimeters and backside of the case are upcycled supplies and 95% of the metal is recycled could assist justify sporting such a luxurious piece on the seashore. At €15,750, the Wempe Signature Assortment version of the Diver Web sadly prices virtually 20% greater than the already-expensive common mannequin. In return, although, you obtain a rare watch restricted to 75 items that may set you aside from all these sporting the standard suspects on their wrists.
Go to Wempe’s on-line store to get extra info. What do you consider the Ulysse Nardin Diver Web Wempe Signature Assortment? Do you put on extra colourful watches in summer time?
Watch specs
Mannequin
Diver Web Wempe Signature Assortment
Reference
UN220061 (1183-170LE-2A-WS/3A)
Dial
Black, sandblasted with brushed X ornament, orange accents and luminous fingers and indices
Case Materials
Metal interior case (95% recycled), aspect elements and backside 60% Nylo (recycled fishing nets) and 40% Carbonium (upcycled plane materials)
Case Dimensions
44mm (diameter) × 50mm (lug-to-lug) × 14.81mm (thickness together with crystal)
Crystal
Sapphire with antireflective coating on either side
Case Again
Nylo × Carbonium with sapphire show window, hooked up with six screws, limited-edition print and engraving
Motion
Ulysse Nardin UN-118: automated with handbook winding and hacking, 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, 60-hour energy reserve, 50 jewels, silicon hairspring, DiamonSil anchor and escape wheel
Water Resistance
300 meters (30 bar)
Strap
Orange rubber with signed ceramic inlay and ceramic and titanium butterfly folding clasp, extra black rubber strap
Capabilities
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), date, energy reserve indicator, 60-minute dive bezel
Worth
€15,750 (together with VAT) / US$15,900 (excluding gross sales tax)
Particular Word(s)
Restricted to 75 individually numbered items