Right now, we’ll check out a comparatively nondescript Common Genève Microtor costume watch. It’s value a deeper search for a number of causes, although. The situation, the case materials, and the aim for its existence all come collectively to create a stunning bundle. It is a beautiful piece by itself, however why not discover the main points?
My present infatuation with well-designed, easy classic watches is main me down some very totally different paths. Over the past six months, watches from manufacturers corresponding to Eterna, Cyma, and Movado have all entered my assortment. That is nonetheless a brand new area for me to discover, and I’m having tons of enjoyable! Our topic at present is one other instance of my newest kick. The featured Common Genève Microtor is such a satisfying watch for thus many causes, not least of all being its laughably low value of entry.
Classic-watch cat nip
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 570 hooked me. Ever since buying it in mid-2023, I’ve loved searching for easy, classic three-hand costume watches with flowing lugs. The mix of a easy dial with this case fashion is like cat nip for me. Usher in a wholesome dimension above 34mm together with first rate situation, and I battle to withstand pulling the set off when costs are cheap. The Common Genève Microtor you see right here was not a deliberate buy by any stretch, but it surely had me from the primary second I noticed it.
A Common Genève Microtor in 9K gold
Right now’s Common Genève Microtor is yet one more no-model-name “costume watch” from the late Nineteen Fifties (relationship places it to 1959) amongst an unlimited sea of different equally designed watches. By the way in which, I put the time period “costume watch” in citation marks as a result of, at the moment, these had been merely watches. The excellence with this piece is that it was a gold watch and, subsequently, seemingly reserved for particular events. Right now, we consult with such items as “costume watches” as a result of they have a tendency to lack a lot in the way in which of water resistance and are historically paired with fancier clothes.
No matter the nomenclature used to explain this Common Genève Microtor, it’s superbly designed. The dimensions is correct within the candy spot for such a watch at 36mm by 42.5mm. The thickness afforded by way of the Microtor motion is simply 8.9mm together with the domed acrylic crystal. Lastly, an 18mm lug spacing retains the design in proportion.
A wonderfully designed dial
Whereas I do get pleasure from a little bit of patina on occasion, one other promoting level of this Common Genève Microtor was its practically flawless dial. Watches from this era are infamous for water ingress, and, at greatest, there may be resultant recognizing. If recognizing or common rot isn’t current, then redials are a standard incidence. This watch, nevertheless, will need to have lived a charmed life as a result of it appears new. Common Genève selected easy, utilized gold stick indices, an utilized brand, and minimal textual content. The model title, “Automated,” and “Swiss” are the one phrases on the dial. It’s tough to see the drilled minute monitor across the periphery, however that’s a stunning element within the style of a Calatrava. Dauphine fingers and a easy, needle-like central seconds hand full the look.
A 9K gold case
Till now, I’ve purposely averted dialogue on the case materials of this Common Genève Microtor. Apparently (or not!), it’s 9K gold. Overtly, I had by no means heard of such an alloy apart from its trendy use on the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold and the latest Blancpain Fifty Fathoms seventieth Anniversary Act 3 mannequin. It seems that 9K gold, which is 37.5% gold, is a traditionally widespread alloy within the UK. The USA, for instance, sells 10K gold on the decrease finish, which is intriguing. Understandably, 9K gold is an entry-level alloy on account of its lack of gold, and relying on the combination, it could actually tackle extra of a bronze hue.
Detractors see it as a money seize from jewellery makers who mark up the fabric on account of its title regardless of it having lower than 50% gold content material. Proponents like the sturdiness on account of its lack of soppy treasured steel. What we will see right here is that even at this low gold share, the watch has hallmarks on each side of its case. Right now, service anniversary watches like this Common come up on the market all around the UK from manufacturers corresponding to Longines, Omega, Tudor, and others. They usually have UK-made circumstances, which I discover endearing. Some watches are fairly small or closely worn, however on occasion, a stunning piece emerges at an awesome value.
Celebrating 25 years of service
A well-liked use for 9K gold was for anniversary watches that got to workers after a few years of service. The previous “gold watch” present, which is unfortunately gone at present, was a momentous event and gave the impression to be extremely widespread within the UK. Certainly, the Common Genève Microtor that I now personal was a present to an individual named T.D. Allen in 1964 from B. Elliott & Co. Ltd. This firm made drill presses, saws, and different metal-working equipment. I’ve completed some analysis, and the corporate gave out many various 9K fashions from Common Genève in its historical past.
The engraving on the again of the watch is one thing to behold. I’m often neither right here nor there about having another person’s historical past written on the case again, however the high quality of the inscription is beautiful. Apparently, the font for the worker’s title and the date of presentation is totally different from the first engraving. I assume that lots of the similar watches had been ordered with the engraving and the particular worker and date info was added at a later time. Additionally, whereas the watch does date to roughly 1959, we see that it wasn’t gifted till 1964.
The Microtor motion
The Common Genève Microtor makes use of a snap-on case again, and on this watch, opening and refastening it comes with a satisfying click on. That is the results of little or no opening over its historical past. As soon as inside, we will see the fantastic 28-jewel caliber 215 with its thick micro-rotor. Maybe some extra educated people will chime in on the precise sub-reference of the motion to assist decide its thickness. At a most, it’s simply over 5mm thick. The ending is definitely of a excessive grade and one thing we see on really costly watches at present. So far as timekeeping, I’d say that this watch is truthful general. It good points a couple of minutes per day, which is consistent with the opposite Universals I personal which have the same motion. So far as handbook winding, it’s definitely not as satisfying as a high quality non-automatic motion, however there’s one thing particular a few micro-rotor caliber.
Different particulars
I bought this Common Genève Microtor final yr on the similar present close to London Heathrow Airport late the place I discovered my Eterna 852 and the IWC 309. The vendor of the IWC had this watch too. It was sitting in a small show case on a taupe leather-based strap. Whereas the IWC caught my eye initially (discovering one was my essential goal), the Microtor was such a magnificence that I needed to take a better look. I then noticed that the watch got here with its authentic field, certificates of assure, and a word card with the recipient’s title. It’s really a time capsule!
A beautiful watch on the wrist
A watch like this Common Genève Microtor wears superbly. The dimensions is up to date, and it really works splendidly beneath a sleeve. I pair it with nearly every little thing, so it’s not serving solely “Sunday greatest” obligation. Additionally, after a chat with strap guru Balazs, I opted for a bolder strap coloration. Right here, it’s on certainly one of our personal Baranil straps in Sky Blue, and I believe it seems to be excellent.
Closing ideas on the Common Genève Microtor
Right now’s watch value me round £1,000, which appears like an insane quantity of worth for any practically unused classic Common Genève. The truth that it’s so enticing makes it even higher. The unique packaging, a pleasant story, and a wearable dimension had been the collective icing on the cake. Earlier than I depart, I’ll deliver up Breitling’s latest acquisition of Common Genève. Nobody really is aware of what watches will emerge from this reintroduction, however I’d push closely for a easy, no-nonsense costume watch like at present’s instance.
