Audemars Piguet is ensuring its 5134 caliber will get a correct goodbye. The successor of the legendary 2120 motion is being discontinued…however not simply in any watch. None apart from John Mayer had the glory of arising with one final dial and case design for a limited-edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Along with that, the model confirmed us many different new references throughout its 2024 Social Membership occasion in Milan.
They included a brand new Royal Oak Offshore with a white camouflage case. There’s additionally a brand new Royal Oak automated chronograph in yellow gold and three new Royal Oaks with flying tourbillons. However that’s not all. We noticed extra references and new applied sciences, and the model additionally opened the doorways to its new AP Home Milan whereas we had been there.
John Mayer was interviewed on-stage in regards to the new restricted version by Yoni Ben-Yehuda
On my option to the reception on the resort final Sunday, I nearly ran into John Mayer. He was casually chatting with some Audemars Piguet representatives whereas I used to be checking in. By the point I completed, he had already left, and I questioned if or after I would see him once more within the days to come back. Nicely, that occurred the subsequent morning when he launched his limited-edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to us, the press.
After all, Audemars Piguet’s new CEO Ilaria Resta was additionally there. She admitted that she’s nonetheless studying so much from the good workforce round her. However she additionally assured us that she was very assured in regards to the future and all the brand new releases that we had been about to see. Be sure to’re prepared for what’s to come back as a result of the under overview, which already consists of many new references, solely covers a part of what AP revealed.
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” restricted version
For a lot of, the perpetual calendar is the last word complication. It additionally occurs to be so for John Mayer. It’s a complication that exhibits a lot data that it may be difficult to design an simply readable and engaging watch. Nevertheless, on this case, it seems like placing John Mayer in control of designing the final Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with a 5134 motion was an excellent transfer.
The 18K white gold traditional Royal Oak case is 41mm in diameter and solely 9.5mm thick. It’s because the 5134, an automated perpetual-calendar caliber, is barely 4.3mm thick. It got here out again in 2015, and this yr, AP will retire it. This caliber succeeded the 2120/2800 motion, which was based mostly on the legendary caliber 2120. The 2120 debuted in 1967 and powered many various watches in its very lengthy lifespan. By the best way, AP has not but knowledgeable us of what’s going to substitute the 5134 motion.
The actual star of the present right here, although, is the Crystal Sky blue dial. The feel is achieved by making use of a PVD coating to glass, which is then stamped. John Mayer made a number of recommendations to boost the uniformity of the dial. The quantity 31 on the date sub-dial has a smaller font as a substitute of one other colour, like on many different fashionable references. Additionally, the hand that signifies the weeks is blue as a substitute of white gold in order that it doesn’t interrupt the view of the dial an excessive amount of. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” is a restricted version of 200 items and prices CHF 240,000 ex. VAT.
Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph & Frosted Gold
The following launch on the checklist is one other 41mm Royal Oak. This time, it’s a chronograph in 18K yellow gold apart from the white gold hexagonal screws within the satin-brushed and polished bezel. The case and bracelet acquired the identical end as on the bezel, similar to the crown and the pushers for the chronograph.
Powering this watch is the built-in chronograph caliber 4401. This automated motion contains a column wheel, a vertical clutch, and a flyback mechanism. This final function permits you to rapidly restart the chronograph from zero with out stopping and resetting it first. By way of the sapphire crystal on the again, you possibly can check out the 22K rose gold rotor.
However once more, the true spotlight right here is the gold-plated brass dial with the signature Grande Tapisserie sample. As a ultimate step, the dial will get a hand-sprayed software of black varnish, which creates a mysterious fumé impact. It matches properly with the black arms on the sub-dials and the 24K gold black emblem. The value of the brand new Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph is CHF 63,000 ex. VAT.
As well as, Audemars Piguet can be launching a 37mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding. It has an analogous fumé end on the dial, however it is a time-only watch. It additionally contains a frosted end on the highest of the bezel, case, and bracelet. This watch homes the automated caliber 5900 and prices CHF 55,000 ex. VAT.
Three new Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillons in chrome steel, rose gold, and…sand gold
And we’re not executed with the Royal Oak releases simply but. Chrome steel, rose gold, and sand gold variations have additionally been added to the Flying Tourbillon sequence. The chrome steel mannequin has a darkish burgundy dial with each a sunburst and fumé impact. Its darkish tones stand in nice distinction with the intense 18K white gold markers and arms.
The brand new rose gold model has a grey sandblasted dial mixed with an ivory minute observe. This dial positively makes it my favourite of the 2. Powering each watches is the automated caliber 2950. After all, you possibly can check out the tourbillon on the entrance of the watch. However it’s additionally value turning the watch round and looking out on the motion’s ending and the 22K rose gold central rotor. The value of the chrome steel model with the burgundy dial is CHF 146,700 ex. VAT. The rose gold model will price CHF 180,600 ex. VAT.
After which there’s one other model in a very new treasured steel referred to as sand gold. It’s an 18K gold alloy achieved by changing the silver a part of gold with copper and palladium. It’s in all probability much more sophisticated than that sounds. Anyway, the result’s a really soft-looking tone that’s someplace in between white and rose gold. The brand new 41mm sand gold Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked is powered by caliber 2972, which is seen each by means of the back and front facet of the watch. The value of this new addition is CHF 250,000 ex. VAT.
Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny Openworked
AP can be launching a brand new Royal Oak Jumbo Additional-Skinny in 18K white gold with an open-worked dial. This watch homes the automated caliber 7124, which is barely 2.7mm thick. Subsequently, the 39mm case can be simply 8.1mm thick. Though it’s that skinny, the watch continues to be water-resistant to 50 meters. It presents a view of the motion’s stunning ending by means of the sapphire crystals on each the entrance and the again. The value of the Royal Oak Jumbo in white gold with an open-worked dial is CHF 103,000 ex. VAT.
Royal Oak Offshore 43mm with a blue rubber-coated bezel
Now, for one thing just a little extra rugged, right here’s the brand new Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in chrome steel with a rubber-coated bezel. The bezel, dial, and rubber strap are available in an identical blueish-gray colour. This new Royal Oak Offshore, which is among the few time-only Offshores on the market, is powered by the automated caliber 4302. Its worth is ready to CHF 23,000 ex. VAT.
Seven new rose gold references for the Code 11.59 assortment
Audemars Piguet can be including no fewer than seven new references to its Code 11.59 assortment. All watches are made out of 18K rose gold and are available in both 38mm or 41mm sizes. The 38mm time-only fashions have both a darkish or gentle blue dial that includes the gathering’s signature dial texture. I attempted these watches on my 17cm wrist and felt this was the proper dimension for me. Subsequent up are two 41mm time-only fashions. One has the identical darkish blue dial because the 38mm variant, whereas the opposite is available in darkish inexperienced. Each these colours may even turn out to be obtainable in a chronograph variant. As well as, a black model of the automated chronograph may even be launched.
The costs of the Code 11.59 in rose gold in 41mm are CHF 40,000 ex. VAT for the chronograph and CHF 28,000 ex. VAT for the three-handers. The 38mm variations in rose gold price CHF 27,500 ex. VAT.
A preview of a brand new know-how
In the course of the product displays, Audemars Piguet additionally had some workshops ready for us. One in all them was a couple of new know-how referred to as Spark Plasma Sintering (SPS). With out going into an excessive amount of element, this enables the designers to mix completely different tones of the identical materials. The truth that this sintering occurs in a couple of minutes as a substitute of a number of hours means there’s a transparent transition between the completely different tones.
In the course of the workshop, we noticed a preview of what this new know-how can obtain with, for instance, ceramic. It’s a pity the camouflaged Offshore was solely a prototype as a result of many people thought that the watch regarded completely badass. We additionally discovered that this know-how isn’t only for mixing completely different tones of ceramic. AP may also use this course of to sinter various kinds of gold with one another. The instance we noticed regarded fairly promising. “Coming to an AP Home close to you quickly,” let’s say.
The brand new AP Home peaking by means of the slim streets of Milan
The brand new AP Home (or storage) in Milan opens its doorways
One of many primary causes for organizing this AP Social Membership in Milan was the brand new AP Home there. After the product displays within the morning, the model invited us all to have a look inside the brand new facility proper within the metropolis middle of Milan. There, Storage Traversi (a well-known parking storage from the ’70s) was remodeled into Audemars Piguet’s residence away from residence by architect Piero Lissoni. There aren’t any fewer than 5 flooring with sufficient room for the model’s heritage, know-how, artwork, music, and, after all, meals and drinks.
Milan can be the place the primary AP Home opened in 2017. Within the meantime, many well-known cities on the earth have joined the checklist, together with Bangkok, Los Angeles, Amsterdam, and Tokyo. There are actually 20 AP Homes in complete, and extra are within the pipeline already.
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer”
Ultimate phrases
I attempted to provide you an outline of a very powerful releases offered throughout AP’s Social Membership occasion. I believe these are essentially the most related ones for the Fratelli. Though it already looks like so much, we noticed many extra new references, so please additionally check out Audemars Piguet’s official web site to find what else is new.
Let me know what you consider the restricted version in collaboration with John Mayer within the feedback. Or do you favor any of the opposite new releases?
