This 12 months is filled with watch manufacturers celebrating every kind of anniversaries, but when there’s one with a milestone anniversary, it’s Breguet. The home celebrates its 250th anniversary this 12 months. Yesterday, the festivities started with the discharge of the brand new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. It’s an excellent first step in a brand new course underneath the management of just lately appointed Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling, and we’re curious to search out out what else to anticipate from the model. For now, we have now chosen our 5 favourite watches from its present assortment to heat up for what’s going to hopefully be an incredible 12 months for Breguet.
Earlier than we get into our listing, it’ll be good to handle how we chosen our favorites. If we had talked to the Fratello staff members individually, there’s a good probability you’ll’ve ended up with 5 Classique fashions. A few of us would have even picked the identical watch. However that might be too simple, so we teamed up and took it upon ourselves to point out the range that the Breguet model presents. On high of that, there are some classics that we love and want to see do nicely sooner or later. So with out additional ado, let’s begin with this listing of our 5 favourite present Breguet fashions.
Breguet Classique Répétition Minute 7637
Do you wish to know the right way to make the entire Fratello staff fall silent? Take out this Breguet Classique Répétition Minute 7637 and gently put it in the midst of the room. After we obtained this within the workplace, everybody was in awe of this beautiful timepiece. The mixture of the deceivingly simple-looking, elegant dial and a jaw-droppingly stunning minute repeater caliber seen by means of the case again makes for my favourite of the 5 watches on this listing. Give me one Breguet decide, and this could be it.
Breguet presents the 7637 in two “flavors.” The primary is a white gold model with a blue dial. The second, which can be my favourite, is a rose gold model with a black dial. The mixture of the rose gold case and the black grand feu enamel is majestic. The case measures 42mm in diameter, 12.35mm thick, and 49mm from lug to lug. Whereas substantial for a traditional gown watch, let’s keep in mind that this can be a minute repeater and never a primary time-only piece.
A deceivingly simple-looking grand feu enamel dial
Contained in the 18K rose gold case lies a ravishing black grand feu enamel dial graced by Breguet Arabic numerals in silver powder. This creates a seemingly easy dial. However simply take a look at the fantastic minute monitor made up of various shapes. Breguet executed these particulars extremely nicely.
Moreover, refined touches just like the well-known Breguet signature on the decrease half and the textual content beneath the 6 o’clock marker show the distinctive consideration to element that Breguet’s artisans put into creating this dial. Contrasting the backdrop are two stunning arms displaying the time however not revealing the particular motion that powers the watch.
Flip the watch round, and additional proof of the craftsmanship inside boldly involves life. As Robert-Jan defined in his overview, the Breguet caliber 567/2 is a 358-part murals. It options hand-engraved bridges, a hand-engraved Breguet emblem, a novel quantity, hand-polished and beveled hammers, a gold gong spring, and extra. The motion ticks at an 18,000vph frequency and has a 40-hour energy reserve.
As I discussed, the caliber presents the revered minute repeater complication, which the wearer can activate by pulling the lever on the left facet of the case. This can provoke the sequence of hammers hitting the gongs to point the hours, quarters, and minutes sonically. After spending a while with this Breguet Classique Répétition Minute 7637, it’s onerous to not be utterly in awe. The beautiful ranges of expertise are precisely why we love Breguet as a lot as we do. In consequence, that is the right first decide for this listing.
Picture: The Watch Membership
Breguet Custom 7057
Bear in mind how I stated all of the Fratello staff members would decide Breguet Classique fashions? Nicely, that was incorrect. A few of you may know that Robert-Jan would most likely go a distinct route. As he owns a Breguet Custom 7027, a Custom may be his decide for this listing. However it could actually’t be the 7027 as a result of it’s not a part of the model’s assortment. We picked the follow-up Breguet Custom 7057 that presents the identical attribute model. The Custom line debuted in 2005 and took inspiration from Breguet’s subscription watches from the late 18th century. These watches additionally occur to be the inspiration for the brand new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 that got here out yesterday.
Picture: The Watch Membership
The Custom 7057 has a 40mm case with the model’s signature coin-edge sides and is barely bigger than the Custom 7027 that Robert-Jan owns. The watch is offered in 4 variations — two with a rose gold case and two with a white gold one. On high of that, three include a black dial that shows the hours and minutes. We picked the fourth choice due to its traditional appears to be like. It’s a white gold model with a silvered guilloché dial contrasted by two small blued arms. Moreover, you will notice an indicator at 10 o’clock displaying how a lot of the ability reserve stays.
Picture: The Watch Membership
A visible celebration of the caliber contained in the Breguet Custom 7057
The rest of the entrance face presents a view of the completely different components of the manual-winding Breguet caliber 507 DR1. As you possibly can see, it’s a classy mixture of silver- and gold-colored components that distinction properly with the blued components, just like the arms and screws. For those who flip the watch round, you get a pleasant view of the again of the caliber, which contains 224 components, operates at 21,600vph, and presents 50 hours of energy reserve.
Picture: The Watch Membership
The Breguet Custom 7057 is definitely not for everybody. However regardless of the aesthetic being an acquired style, it tells a narrative steeped within the model’s wealthy custom. Subsequently, the Custom sequence is a lot greater than only a sequence of remarkable-looking watches. They’re among the many finest storytellers within the Breguet assortment, which is why they can’t be lacking from a listing like this.
Breguet Sort XX Chronographe 2067
The identical will be stated for the Breguet Sort XX. The model’s sequence of pilot’s watches is a outstanding standout in an unlimited assortment of very classical timepieces. When Breguet launched its present sequence of Sort XX and Sort 20 fashions in 2023, many lovers voiced sturdy opinions about them.
The primary criticism centered across the massive date window and cut-off numerals at 2, 4, and 5 o’clock as a result of big-eye dial structure. In all honesty, we additionally collectively raised an eyebrow after we noticed the latest tackle this Breguet traditional. The small print may have made this contemporary model of the model’s pilot’s watch into the right Sort XX. Nevertheless, whereas the 2067 ticks many containers, it felt prefer it missed that mark, sadly.
However let’s not overlook there may be loads of allure to be discovered with each the Sort 20 and the Sort XX. We picked the Sort XX as a result of it’s the nice traditional everyone knows and love. Lex raised an incredible level in all of the noise relating to the date window. Would eschewing the date window make it extra profitable? I agree along with his take that it will not. It could look higher, sure, and I feel we are able to all agree on that. However at the very least, as it’s now, it ticks all of the useful containers of a modern-day pilot’s chronograph. And let’s not overlook that Breguet has tried completely different executions of the date window over time, together with integrating it with the sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The consequence was not visually pleasing to anybody’s eyes as a result of it was much more distinguished.
Spending time with the Sort XX Chronographe 2067
The present Sort XX does away with giving the date window a distinguished spot the place it may intrude with studying the sub-dials. And as you possibly can learn in Robert-Jan’s overview, the date didn’t trouble him after spending a month with the watch. Throughout that month, I additionally had an opportunity to strive the watch a number of instances and located the date window blended in significantly better on the wrist than within the footage. What principally stands out is that it’s a charming vintage-inspired chronograph, particularly on the leather-based strap that Robert-Jan wore it on.
The watch has a 42mm stainless-steel case that appears massive, however it wears properly as a result of quick and properly curved lugs. The ending is properly carried out, as you’ll anticipate from a model like Breguet. It provides a pleasant little bit of visible attraction to the retro appears to be like. The case is matched with a matte black dial with massive Arabic numerals, which have a classic really feel due to the lume shade. It’s the identical shade that Breguet additionally used for the white handset.
The high-beat caliber 7821
Contained in the case, you can find the Breguet caliber 7821. This automated chronograph motion operates at 36,000vph and presents a 60-hour energy reserve. It additionally incorporates a column wheel, a flat silicon spiral, and an inverted silicon anchor. For some additional visible pizzazz, Breguet made the skeletonized rotor black to distinction with the metal tone. It provides some life to the bottom of the watch. Nevertheless, the visible magic of the Sort XX is predominantly discovered on the entrance of the watch. All in all, the Sort XX Chronograph 2067 grew on us fairly a bit. Nonetheless, that doesn’t erase our want to see a dateless model as an addition to the lineup of Breguet’s traditional pilot’s watches.
Breguet Classique 5157
A collective favourite is the Breguet Classique 5157. This trendy two-hander reveals every little thing that makes Breguet such a particular model in a easy gown watch that shows the hours and minutes. However the design and the execution are something however easy. Presently, Breguet presents the Classique 5157 in rose gold and white gold.
Whereas the rose gold model has all the heat and traditional model, I’d go for the white gold model and match it with a pleasant light-colored nubuck strap to make it extra modern. Doing so works miracles in altering the presence. Our colleague Daan has opened our eyes to this with his Classique 5907. The mixture of the white gold case with a much less traditional strap immediately offers the watch relevance and reveals its nice versatility.
However going again to the 5157, each the rose gold and white gold variations have a 38mm case that’s solely 5.5mm thick. The traditional case options slim, barely angled lugs and the attribute coin-edge sides. However as a result of skinny profile, the ridges should not as distinguished as on a number of the different Breguet fashions. The case homes a silvered gold dial with a hand-guilloché hobnail sample within the middle and a brushed chapter ring with Roman numerals.
Simplicity is a matter of particulars
As Robert-Jan defined in his overview, Breguet creates its guilloché dials with conventional instruments and an excessive amount of craftsmanship relationship again to 1786, which makes them much more particular. A wonderful set of blue arms contrasts with the dial within the 5157. There are additionally small gold markers for each 5 minutes. It’s an intricate element that solely stands out if you search for it. That’s precisely what makes this watch so particular. It’s a primary Breguet, however “primary” means a lot extra within the Breguet universe than what most individuals would affiliate with that time period.
Powering the Classique 5157 is the ultra-thin Breguet caliber 502.3, which is just 2.4mm thick. Like several automated motion, it supplies the comfort of not having to wind the watch if it’s worn commonly, however Breguet doesn’t simply provide comfort. It’s no shock that the marginally off-center rotor can be stunningly completed.
The 162-part caliber operates at 21,600vph and presents 45 hours of energy reserve. It’s the good ultra-thin motion for this beautiful every day wearer. The Breguet Classique 5157 could be many of the Fratello staff members’ alternative as their one Breguet, making it the right fourth decide for this listing.
Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547
Every now and then, a watch makes an influence on you that may stay ceaselessly, and it’s not all the time one thing you possibly can rationally clarify. If there may be one factor that we are able to agree on, it’s that Breguet may accomplish that a lot with its Marine assortment to offer it extra relevance. We are able to debate rather a lot relating to the general design of the model’s sports-watch assortment, and we might most likely agree on some much-wanted enhancements. Having stated that, as quickly as I picked up the Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 about 5 years in the past, one thing magical occurred. The visible influence, the load of all that gold, and the unbelievable execution made me fall head over heels for this watch. As most of you already know, typically photos can solely inform a small a part of the story.
The story of this Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 is about a lot extra. As I defined in my overview 5 years in the past, seeing the watch, selecting it up, placing it on the wrist, and carrying it’s a layered course of that took me from respectful appreciation to blissful admiration. Consequently, it has stayed with me as probably the most spectacular watches I’ve ever had the pleasure of carrying. The watch was a part of a sequence of Marine fashions we had in for overview, together with the ridiculously spectacular rose gold model of the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887. Late final 12 months, Breguet launched the identical platinum mannequin that Robert-Jan reported on. Whereas that may have been essentially the most sophisticated and due to this fact mindblowing mannequin, it didn’t have the influence of the 5547.
Probably the most spectacular bracelet I’ve ever witnessed
An enormous a part of that’s as a result of watch’s influence on its stunningly spectacular rose gold bracelet. It’s nonetheless undoubtedly the very best bracelet I’ve ever witnessed up shut. Every thing about it oozes craftsmanship and high quality. Breguet presents the Marine Alarme Musicale in titanium, white gold, and rose gold.
Overlook titanium and white gold; it’s all in regards to the rose gold model right here. The construct high quality of this three-row bracelet is unmatched, and the best way it hugs the wrist is outstanding. After carrying the look ahead to a bit, it was onerous to change again to a leather-based strap just because I didn’t wish to. As I stated, this was a transformative expertise.
The bracelet shouldn’t be distinctive to the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547. Breguet additionally makes use of it for the time-and-date Marine 5517 and the Marine Chronographe 5527. This final entry on our listing may be seen as one watch to encapsulate all of them.
All talked about rose gold Marine fashions characteristic superbly detailed instances matched with rose gold dials completed in silver or slate grey, with the latter solely accessible for the 5517 and 5527. The dials characteristic a hand-guilloché wave sample accompanied by Roman numerals, a date window, and a ravishing handset. Relying on the mannequin, the scale of the case and the mixing of sub-dials change.
Basically, it’s about all the Marine fashions
Whereas the Marine Alarme Musicale is the watch I fell in love with, this fifth spot could possibly be reserved for the whole Marine assortment. Though there’s something magical in regards to the 5547, I additionally want for an up to date design that may give the watch renewed relevance with out shedding all the nice options that make the Marine such a powerful sequence.
As I acknowledged in my overview of the 5547, the sensation I obtained from placing the watch on my wrist and carrying it’s onerous to explain. Basically, then, I’m asking Breguet to make one thing magical even higher. That looks like a bizarre request, proper? I’ll have to consider that for a bit. However I do know that the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 deserves the final spot on this listing just because it modified my notion of what makes the very best in watchmaking even higher.
Closing ideas on our high 5 present Breguet fashions
There you could have it — a listing of the 5 finest present Breguet fashions in response to us. The model has many nice choices, together with the brand-new Classique Souscription 2025. It’s an exquisite begin to what’s going to hopefully be an incredible 12 months and an excellent future for a model that all of us love right here at Fratello. However tell us within the feedback part what your favourite Breguet fashions are, and we’ll see you subsequent week for an additional listing.
