It’s Sunday morning, which suggests it’s time for breakfast with a traditional Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg go face to face with two nice mid-sized day by day wearers from Rolex and Grand Seiko. One is the newest technology of the traditional 36mm Rolex Datejust with a domed bezel. It’s going to go up in opposition to the just lately launched 37mm Grand Seiko SBGH347. Which of the 2 will come out on prime? That’s as much as you to resolve.
Every of at this time’s picks represents the right “entry-level” day by day wearer from its respective model. In comparison with different Rolex and Grand Seiko watches, these are comparatively inexpensive. The brand new Grand Seiko SBGH347 can be out there in October for €6,900, and the Rolex Datejust could be yours for €7,700. Subsequently, they symbolize an vital phase of watches for folks on the lookout for an accessible timepiece from a good model. However each additionally symbolize utterly completely different mindsets. We’ll most likely additionally see that mirrored in at this time’s components from Mike, who selected the Rolex, and Jorg, who will make his case for the Grand Seiko. Let’s discover out!
Final week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
However earlier than we do, let’s recap final week’s battle. The brand-new Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 gained with 60% of the votes, leaving the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 with 40%. Going over the feedback gave an identical view of the battle. Most individuals agreed with Jorg that the brand new Marinemaster represents a lineage of industry-defining dive watches. It’s a giant motive folks really feel extra linked to the Marinemaster than the Aquis. Nonetheless, the latter does properly primarily based on the general high quality and the much-respected Oris Calibre 400. However in the long run, Seiko gained comfortably, regardless of the preliminary levels having been fairly shut.
Jorg: Grand Seiko SBGH347
My choose for at this time’s battle was a stunning launch for me. Grand Seiko has many watches that may very well be an ideal entry-level day by day wearer. However this one stood out instantly for 2 causes. First, it’s due to the properly sized 37mm case mixed with the ice-blue dial. It makes the watch stand out instantly. On the dial can also be the place you discover a clue as to why I like this watch so much. The SBGH347 is powered by a Hello-Beat motion, which is a giant motive for me to purchase a Grand Seiko.
Consequently, this Grand Seiko SBGH347 is the complete package deal. It’s all I may need from a snug day by day watch. And if we put the SBGH347 subsequent to at this time’s contender, there’s one other massive motive for me to decide on the Grand Seiko: it’s way more refined. Its refinement stands out within the total fashion in addition to the ending of the completely different parts. To elaborate additional, let’s take a look at some particulars.
The main points of the Grand Seiko SBGH347
The brand new SBGH347 has a 37mm Ever-Sensible Metal case that’s 13.3mm thick and measures 44.6mm from lug to lug. The watch is completely proportioned on my wrist, though I have to say that I wouldn’t have minded it being barely thinner. Then once more, the case’s sculpture is fantastic, and the ending is nothing in need of spectacular. Grand Seiko actually doesn’t lower any corners when ensuring all of the watches look incredible.
For the SBGH347, the designers selected Zaratsu sharpening for many of the case’s surfaces, together with the perimeters and the bezel. Solely the tops of the lugs are vertically brushed, and so they circulation properly into the snug bracelet with its predominantly brushed prime floor and polished sides.
As we all know from Grand Seiko, the inspiration for the gorgeous blue dial comes from Japanese nature. Particularly, the dial was impressed by frozen Nanataki Falls in Iwate Prefecture, the place the Grand Seiko Studio is positioned. Mike, Gerard, RJ, and I’ve poked enjoyable at Grand Seiko’s infinite nature inspiration prior to now, but when the result’s a dial like this one, I truthfully don’t thoughts studying one other story about the place the idea got here from.
The icy blue shade mixed with the vertically brushed texture appears tremendous stylish and simply beats any Datejust choices. The utilized indices, sharp dauphine palms, and framed date window give the watch a refinement that makes it look higher than the Datejust. I’ve by no means been a fan of the Rolex Cyclops, particularly on the 36mm Datejust, so to see the properly framed date window on the Grand Seiko is another excuse to desire the SBGH347.
The Hello-Beat Grand Seiko 9S85 caliber
One other massive issue is the Hello-Beat motion that powers the SBGH347. The in-house computerized caliber 9S85 operates at 36,000vph, affords 55 hours of energy reserve, and has 37 jewels. Due to the show case again, you possibly can see the gorgeous motion in motion, and on the entrance, you’ll witness the magic of a sweeping seconds hand hovering above the attractive dial. It’s one of many many particulars that make this Grand Seiko SBGH347 stand out from the Rolex Datejust ref. 126200 and why I desire it.
This brings me to my final level: I’d gladly spend my €6,900 on the Grand Seiko SBGH347, however I wouldn’t pay €7,700 for this particular Datejust. When selecting a Datejust, it’s all in regards to the fluted bezel and the Jubilee bracelet. This simply appears an excessive amount of like an Oyster Perpetual with a date window and the undesirable Cyclops.
Figuring out that the Oyster Perpetual is way more inexpensive at €6,300 and my most popular Datejust is €9,400, it leaves this Datejust 36 ref. 126200 in limbo. And that isn’t an excellent place to be. That’s why I’d select the Grand Seiko each time. However I’d love to listen to your ideas, Mike!
Mike: Rolex Datejust 36 ref. 126200
Jorg makes some nice factors in regards to the SBGH347, and it’s undoubtedly an excellent addition to the Grand Seiko lineup. Nonetheless, there’s nothing fairly like a Datejust when selecting the last word dressy but sporty watch. Granted, most people envision a fluted white gold bezel and Jubilee bracelet when enthusiastic about the mannequin, however the easy 126200 on an Oyster bracelet is a extra understated, sportier possibility.
Of any fashionable Rolex, that is the mannequin for me
I’m outspoken about my relative ennui relating to the present Rolex lineup. The thicker case designs and brilliant detailing don’t enchantment to me. Fortunately, when the latest 36mm Rolex Datejust fashions have been launched in 2019, it marked the return of a extra elegant case design. The lugs are slender once more, and the watches are supremely snug. If I have been out there for a brand new Rolex, the 126200 with a mint-green dial can be the selection.
Whereas I take pleasure in a Datejust with a fluted bezel, I’m blissful that the sleek possibility hasn’t been forgotten. Rolex has more and more moved upmarket, so a Datejust with a metal bezel looks like an outlier. It means there’s nonetheless the possibility to purchase a extra elemental Rolex. Plus, the colour choices are fantastic.
The calibre 3235 is a powerhouse
I take pleasure in a high-beat motion like Grand Seiko’s 9S85, however there’s no denying the goodness of the Rolex caliber 3235. This computerized motion runs like an indestructible equipment. In different phrases, it is probably not as attractive with its 28,800vph frequency, but it surely’s an authorized chronometer and has 70 hours of energy reserve. In fact, this watch will hardly ever go away your wrist, so the facility reserve numbers are considerably meaningless.
Rolex nonetheless makes the very best bracelets
Whereas I’m robust on fashionable Rolex, the model nonetheless produces the very best bracelets within the watch {industry}. By some means, Rolex has managed to maintain the Jubilee and Oyster skinny however sturdy. Then, if we juxtapose the fluidity and high quality in opposition to the Grand Seiko’s bracelet, the margin widens additional. I like a Grand Seiko, however as others have talked about, the bracelets are disappointing and missing for a high-end watch. The remainder of the ending on the Datejust can also be praiseworthy. Rolex might not boast about Zaratsu, however I’ve at all times been impressed with the excessive degree of consistency for a quantity luxurious product.
The on-wrist expertise of a 36mm Oyster case…
Coupled with the right bracelet, few watches can match the sensation of on-wrist perfection like a 36mm Oyster case. Including a easy bezel solely integrates the watch extra with one’s anatomy. Then, there’s the thickness. Whereas different manufacturers battle to make a fairly skinny computerized watch, Rolex asks you to carry its beer whereas serving up 11.7mm beauties all day lengthy. You possibly can dislike Rolex or the problem of shopping for one, however if you happen to’re okay with a 36mm watch, there’s nothing higher. Concerning the Cyclops, I used to be as soon as a hater, however I now see it as a design hallmark. And as somebody whose eyes border on ineffective, the magnifier is a boon.
Last ideas
I discussed the collective frustration that is still with attempting to purchase a Rolex. Nonetheless, many will let you know that the anticipate a fundamental Datejust just like the 126200 is not as a lot of a problem. After we focus on pricing, a distinction of €800 between the 126200 and the SBH347 is probably going not a distinction maker. I dislike resale discussions, however the Rolex will virtually actually retain extra worth and be simpler to maneuver on ought to the wearer have a change of coronary heart. Ultimately, I wouldn’t fault anybody for selecting the Grand Seiko if the watch has extra enchantment. For me, although, I’d select the Datejust 36 ref. 126200 each single time. Then once more, such as you, I solely get to vote as soon as. Select your favourite by voting beneath, and tell us why you picked it within the feedback.