Acrylic crystal, growing older lume, gilt dial — these are the makings of a classic dive watch. However the Typsim 200M isn’t outdated. In actual fact, it’s model new and a welcome addition of true watch nostalgia in a fauxtina panorama that solely pays visible lip service to the previous. The 200M from Typsim is half a homage to the primary dive watches, half a contemporary software, and each bit as stunning as it’s succesful. With an unimaginable consideration to element and microbrand endearment, what’s to not love?
Typsim (pronounced tip-sim) is an American microbrand from the Pacific Northwest. Regardless that I’m a author on this trade, some manufacturers simply slip underneath my radar till popping up unexpectedly. I got here throughout Typsim and its founder Matthew Zinski on the Windup Watch Truthful in San Francisco this yr (but one more reason to get out and attend occasions like this). He had a small desk with some decidedly vintage-looking dive watches. I used to be intrigued by the resemblance to a sure high-dollar luxurious watch model’s “first dive watch,” variations of which debuted final yr together with Swatch. However Typsim’s dive watch, the 200M, could be very a lot its personal, which turns into more and more obvious as I spend extra time with it. After seeing it in San Francisco, I knew I needed to get one in for evaluate, and Mr. Zinski was completely happy to oblige.
The origins and design of the Typsim 200M
Mr. Zinski defined to me that the 200M is the results of wanting to construct the primary dive watch however in the present day. With that purpose in thoughts, in fact, there are visible similarities to these first, pre-skin-diver watches that might solely go so deep. However Zinski walks the effective line of well-executed neo-vintage like an knowledgeable tightrope walker.
Whereas different dive watches make use of triangular or rectangular hour indices, the 200M has solely circles. What may’ve been a lollipop seconds hand is tipped with a diamond. The reversal may be initially jarring, however I consider it really works, and it’s solely stark as a result of we haven’t seen that earlier than (to my data). Design decisions like these make the 200M a watch of its personal inside a style slightly than a copycat. That, in flip, permits the 200M to make the most of different true-to-period particulars that don’t detract from its distinctness. In actual fact, they add to it.
Growing old lume
I typically have an issue with fauxtina in watches, notably on the subject of lume. For my part, the act of “growing older” a watch to make it seem older than it’s or from a unique period is insincere, and the impact doesn’t idiot anybody. That mentioned, I don’t thoughts traditionally knowledgeable design; the truth is, I adore it. I’d simply slightly have the chance to age a watch myself, genuinely. Typsim in some way discovered the perfect of each worlds.
The luminous materials used on the arms, indices, and bezel insert of the 200M is a proprietary compound developed by Matthew Zinski with RC Tritec, the maker of Swiss Tremendous-LumiNova. As my images point out, each lumed floor on the watch is at present a refined off-white. It’s not the intense white discovered on fashionable software watches, however I’d hardly think about it an apparent try at fauxtina. Nevertheless, what’s particular about Typsim’s lume compound is that, over the lifetime of the watch, the lume will age, patina, and switch a wealthy, creamy yellow. It’s nonetheless the nice ol’ tremendous shiny Tremendous-LumiNova we all know and love, however now it ages just like the radium classic aficionados so covet and with out the radioactivity. Now that’s some fauxtina I can get behind.
Acrylic crystal
Like all true classic divers with yellowed radium indices, the 200M makes use of a domed acrylic crystal. The bezel insert is similar materials. Omega Speedmaster aficionados are already acquainted with acrylic (or Hesalite) crystals. However other than the Speedmaster, not many fashionable watches use the fabric.
As soon as artificial sapphire was quickly and persistently producible, acrylic watch crystals largely went the way in which of the dodo. Sapphire presents strong scratch resistance. It additionally sounds fancy from a advertising and marketing standpoint. However acrylic has its allure and function, even by in the present day’s requirements. Regardless that it picks up scratches simply, it’s extra proof against shattering than sapphire. And, in contrast to mineral-based crystal supplies, scratches polish out of acrylic as simply as they seem. The press pattern of the Typsim 200M that I acquired included a small tube of sharpening paste to refresh the crystal if I so desired. Nevertheless, maybe inadvertently, maybe to seize the allure, I uncared for to shine out a small scratch on the magnifying lens positioned over the date.
Acrylic is true to the Typsim 200M’s classic design roots and is a totally legitimate alternative for a software watch no matter its heritage. From a extra aesthetic stance, the acrylic elements of the watch will give house owners the selection to accrue the tell-tale hairline scratches of dive watches from a sure period or hold them polished and easy with minimal maintenance.
The silver-gilt dial of the Typsim 200M
By means of the era-appropriate acrylic crystal, one sees the dial — and what a dial it’s. One facet of many classic watches that renders them so engaging is a gilt dial. In fact, in gown watches the gilt remedy is maybe extra seen throughout the dial. However many software watches additionally utilized the method and aesthetic. Sadly, as my fellow Thomas detailed in a earlier article, historically gilt dials are uncommon in in the present day’s fashionable watch panorama. However it was necessary to Matthew Zinski to breed the magnificence of a gilt dial.
The impact is refined but sharp, and it imparts an magnificence not present in different less-than-authentic homage software watches throughout the market.
The Typsim 200M dial is first plated in silver. It’s then selectively galvanically coated in black lacquer. The brand, minute monitor, and the indices which are then full of lume are merely the seen elements of the silver-plated dial under. The one printed aspect on the dial is the “200m” at 6 o’clock in blue, denoting each the title of the watch and its water resistance.
The result’s exhausting to seize with footage. Not like white dial components printed onto a black background, the reflective silver runs the gamut of grayscale relying on lighting. Typically, it seems crisp and white towards the black lacquer. Typically, although, it seems simply as black. The impact is refined but sharp, and it imparts an magnificence not present in different less-than-authentic homage software watches throughout the market. It pairs with the sharp, polished sword arms completely. The gilt dial of the 200M is certainly one of its strongest options.
An genuine riveted bracelet
One other period-true element is the Typsim 200M’s five-row riveted bracelet. The dedication to rivets is thorough. That’s to say, whereas different manufacturers making use of the rivet aesthetic may forgo the search for entry to the detachable hyperlinks, the Typsim 200M’s bracelet has rivets all the way in which to the clasp.
This, sadly, is my solely gripe with the 200M. These previous few hyperlinks on both aspect of the clasp meant to be eliminated for sizing are held along with post-and-screw bars. This permits them to be unscrewed and eliminated for sizing. However two slotted screw heads on either side of a pin, with one being a put up now not than a few millimeters, make for an extremely irritating sizing expertise. The tiny posts for the pins to screw into additionally don’t impart confidence of their means to deal with put on. A barely free pin shortly turns into a misplaced one with this setup. Typically continuity isn’t all the pieces, and I’d’ve enormously most popular a easy pin-and-sleeve system for the detachable hyperlinks on the expense of the rivet aesthetic.
Frustrations apart, as soon as sized, the bracelet was fairly comfy, as five- and seven-row bracelets often are. And the look undoubtedly matches the watch. I simply know that if I have been going to purchase it, I’d in all probability be anticipating additionally buying a unique period-correct aftermarket bracelet or strap.
Trendy specs for this classic diver
For all its nostalgia, the Typsim 200M is absolutely geared up for the fashionable world. Talked about already is the scuba-worthy 200m water resistance score. The mechanics are equally as succesful. Inside runs a chronometer-grade (however not licensed) Sellita SW300-1. This slim automated workhorse motion has 42 hours of energy reserve and beats at a 28,800vph frequency. You may’t see it via the all-steel case again, however belief that it has rhodium plating and heat-blued screws.
The watch’s dimensions are additionally modernized. A Goldilocks 39mm case diameter and 41mm bezel make the Typsim 200M comfy and good-looking on nearly any wrist. It presents a 47.7mm size and drilled lugs with a 20mm spacing, setting it up properly for aftermarket straps and bracelets. And whilst a full-fledged software watch, the 200M solely sits 12.7mm thick on the wrist.
On the wrist
Bracelet woes apart, I very a lot loved having the Typsim 200M on my wrist. The scale are good, and the watch is undoubtedly elegant. My every day wearer is a mid-Nineteen Sixties skin-diver-type watch. Placing the 200M felt very related however maybe extra particular. I can not overstate the magnificence of the gilt dial. The domed acrylic bezel insert and the date magnifier by no means fail to attract the attention, and the crisp machining on the crown catches the sunshine. Sporting the 200M made me really feel each bit as ready for all times as I do with my typical diver however with extra, properly, sparkle, for lack of a greater phrase.
Good then, higher now
Folks pay tens of 1000’s of {dollars} for watches that hail the period that the Typsim 200M invokes. These watches at the moment are very a lot luxurious objects. The distinctive aesthetic of the mid-Nineteen Fifties dive watch has now turn into coveted, a lot so that individuals search $200 bright-colored plastic toy clones only for the affiliation and look. It’s refreshing to have an possibility that’s nonetheless very a lot a dive watch earlier than the rest. Moreover, the Typsim 200M is more true to the Nineteen Fifties than another instance I’ve come throughout.
What Mr. Zinski and his model have carried out with the 200M is locate that very candy spot the place attractiveness, premium parts, and functionality meet (excluding clunky performance within the bracelet). In a watch market so strongly steeped in nostalgia whereas concurrently attempting to champion strong, fashionable options, the Typsim 200M clearly and easily is sensible. It has all the pieces it ought to and nothing it shouldn’t. Moreover, it’s a definite addition to the watch panorama that can scratch an itch for individuals on the lookout for a really particular sort of watch. I think about it’s additionally fairly engaging to fairly just a few who had no concept they wanted a mid-’50s dive watch till now. This watch definitely has me reconsidering my accumulating trajectory.
Pricing and availability of the Typsim 200M
The Typsim 200M retails for an affordable US$1,199 from Typsim’s official web site. The following manufacturing batch is predicted to ship in November or December 2024, however those that wish to reserve one can nonetheless achieve this now. For all the pieces provided, it is a uncommon and refreshing occasion in watch pricing once I don’t perceive how the 200M is so reasonably priced. I totally loved reviewing the Typsim 200M and extremely suggest it to anybody drawn to its distinctive classic air. I do know I’ll be protecting an in depth eye on Typsim and its future releases any longer. Possibly a Flieger is subsequent?
