Yearly on the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva, the watch world comes collectively to have fun one of the best horological creations it has to supply. This yr marks the twenty fourth GPHG awards ceremony, and lots of spectacular timepieces are within the working. We appeared on the nominated watches within the completely different classes and picked our favorites. Whether or not they may win the precise awards stays to be seen, but it surely’s at all times enjoyable to search out those that talk to us essentially the most. Whereas we agreed on a lot of our high picks, there was additionally a little bit of pleasant friction at instances. Finally, we settled on an inventory of nice watches that we really feel might be worthy winners.
Each class in the course of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Genève (GPHG) awards ceremony has a number of good choices, which can also be why we didn’t instantly agree on the picks for this listing. That is the fantastic thing about the GPHG; it provides you a good suggestion of among the superb watches that got here out up to now 12 months, no matter which of them will go on to win the awards. Whereas the listing of nominated timepieces for the GPHG 2024 is a pleasant reminder, all of the completely different entries give a fair broader view of the fascinating timepieces which are on the market. However let’s concentrate on our favourite nominees from most of this yr’s classes and provides our prediction for the general winner of the yr.
GPHG 2024 — Girls’: Hermès Reduce
Nominated watches: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Evening Tide, Chopard Alpine Eagle 33, Farbergé Colors of Love Rose Gold Rainbow Gemstone Watch, Hermès Reduce, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Computerized 36mm Diamonds Set, Van Cleef & Arpels Girl Jour Nuit
We often don’t concentrate on girls’ watches an excessive amount of on Fratello, however we had the pleasure of experiencing the Hermès Reduce up shut. The watch is designed nicely sufficient to be a fantastic girls’ watch, but it surely’s additionally fashionable sufficient to take a seat elegantly on a gentleman’s wrist. The 36mm Reduce is a pleasant 10mm thick and measures 42mm from lug to lug, making it an ideal match for ladies, in fact, in addition to males who take pleasure in “smaller” watches. On high of that, the Reduce, with its remarkably positioned crown, additionally has that typical Hermès model we love at Fratello.
Contained in the case, you can see the caliber H1912 developed by Vaucher. It appears stunning with the signature H-motif ornament. Hermès is commonly ignored as a watch model, however the Reduce is a good reminder of what makes it so fascinating, which is why it’s our choose.
GPHG 2024 — Girls’ Complication: Trilobe The Beautiful Hour Secret – Distinctive Piece
Nominated watches: Andersen Genève Sakura Andersen Genève X BCHH, Chaumet Swing, Fabergé Compliquée Butterfly Blooms Honest Platinum Jubilee Version, Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Leaping Hours Sakura, Trilobe The Beautiful Hour Secret – Distinctive Piece, Van Cleef & Arpels Girl Arpels Brise d’Été
I used to be actually a bit stunned to see the Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Secret nominated for this class. I coated the sensible watch earlier this yr, however in my reminiscence, it wasn’t particularly a girls’ watch. That stated, the smaller 38.5mm model is certainly a fantastic possibility for girls. However extra importantly, I used to be reminded of the brilliance of this piece. The watch combines a 38.5mm titanium case with a surprising star-lit evening sky on a blue dial. The sensible factor concerning the dial is that the client will get to decide on the sky as seen from a selected location on a specific date. That makes this one other gorgeous piece that could be a Fratello favourite.
GPHG 2024 — Time Solely: Bernard Lederer Triple Licensed Observatory Chronometer
Nominated watches: Berneron Mirage Sienna, Bernhard Lederer Triple Licensed Observatory Chronometer, Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier, Czapek Goutte d’eau, H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date
For those who ask us, Bernhard Lederer ought to win the award in any class his watches are nominated for. The dial aspect of a lot of his watches is commonly an understated trace on the technical wizardry that unveils itself when you flip the watches round. However a look on the dial of the Triple Licensed Observatory Chronometer will inform you that there’s something particular about it. As Lederer explains it, “One of many standout options [of this watch] is the motion of the minute hand, which follows the rhythm of the remontoir d’égalité each 10 seconds. The minute hand’s motion is displayed on a singular scale divided into 6 steps, every representing 10 seconds, culminating in a full minute. A tiny pointer on the center of the minute hand guides the studying of those 10-second intervals, completely synchronized with the remontoir’s rhythm.” Are you continue to with us?
Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC) motion is on the coronary heart of this gorgeous piece, which first will get a COSC chronometer certification. Nonetheless, within the subsequent step, the model selected to have its precision examined by the Observatory in Besançon, France, the Observatory in Glashütte, Germany, and the “Observatory Chronométrique” in Geneva, Switzerland. The triple certification is well known on the motion with the signatures of the three certificates. Moreover, the sub-seconds register situated between 6 and 9 o’clock on the dial reveals the coordinates of the three observatories engraved in three concentric ornamental rings. And this small house solely permits for a small a part of the story of why this watch ought to win.
GPHG 2024 — Males’s: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum
Nominated watches: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Extremely Platinum, Garrick S3 MK2, Grand Seiko Handbook-winding Hello-Beat 36000, Hajime Asaoka Tsunami “Artwork Deco,” Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde Platinum, Voutilainen KV20i Reversed
As you’ll perceive, this class sparked a dialogue. Finally, we agreed that the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde in platinum would get our vote. Whereas some really feel its 40.6mm diameter is just too large, there was no debate concerning the craftsmanship and element that went into creating this watch. The resurgence of the Toric identify showcases that the refined minimalist design model we all know from Tonda PF additionally works for the Toric. The knurled bezel and the gorgeous minimalist dial with unbelievable particulars are components that we all know.
Nonetheless, the execution and the mix with a spherical case make for a superb new signature line of watches. And for those who flip the platinum watch round, you’ll be able to admire the hand-wound PF780 motion crafted out of gold and adorned with Côtes de Fleurier. All in all, the brand new Toric Petite Seconde in platinum reveals that Parmigiani Fleurier is without doubt one of the manufacturers to look at.
GPHG 2024 — Males’s Complication: Chopard L.U.C Strike One
A number of members of the Fratello staff adore the L.U.C Strike One. However different staff members doubt the dial cutout at 1 o’clock. This unveils the hammer that strikes the sting of the watch’s sapphire crystal to create sound. The watch chimes 24 instances each day upon the hour (sonnerie au passage). Chopard’s in-house micro-rotor caliber 96.32-L powers the watch and is a COSC-certified chronometer. The motion is housed in a 40mm white gold case that’s solely 9.86mm thick.
Chopard mixed this case with a beautiful 18K white gold dial that has a galvanic remedy to get its signature inexperienced colour. The dial options small seconds at 6 o’clock and a central portion with a hand-engraved guilloché sample. One shocking element is that the minute observe is engraved into the underside of the sapphire crystal. All of the superbly created components match splendidly nicely collectively. In our opinion, all this results in a chic watch that deserves the GPHG award.
GPHG 2024 — Iconic: Piaget Polo 79
Nominated watches: Breitling Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, Hublot Traditional Fusion Unique Yellow Gold 29mm, IWC Schaffhausen Massive Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler, Louis Vuitton Tambour, Piaget Piaget Polo 79, Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded
We don’t have to clarify this one, proper? The resurgence of the full-gold Piaget Polo is without doubt one of the highlights of this yr. The Piaget Polo 79 has a yellow gold case that’s 38mm huge and seven.45mm thick. It’s mixed with a yellow gold bracelet that, just like the case, options the attribute horizontally engraved “gadroons.” The case is slim because of Piaget’s caliber 1200P1 inside.
This ultra-thin motion makes use of a micro-rotor and gives 44 hours of energy reserve. Going from a quartz motion within the late ’70s and ’80s to a mechanical motion for the brand new Polo 79 is strictly what makes this launch even higher. The Piaget Polo 79 was our unanimous choose as one of the best within the Iconic class.
GPHG 2024 — Tourbillon: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Nominated watches: Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon, Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription, H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton, Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier, Sartory Billard SB06-24HM “La Nuit,” Voutilainen Tourbillon Twentieth Anniversary
Selecting our high choose for the subsequent class nearly become a heated argument. Thomas and Lex are passionate supporters of the Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier. Nacho and yours really are not less than as passionate concerning the Daniel Roth Tourbillon. In that case, the writer of this text will get to determine, proper? In fact, I’m solely kidding. However I’m passionate concerning the return of Daniel Roth. We had been handled to the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold throughout Geneva Watch Days. Nonetheless, as you’ll be able to see, that watch has not been nominated. Somewhat, it’s the yellow gold Tourbillon Souscription that debuted final yr.
It marked the return of the Daniel Roth model, and LVMH’s strategy has been nothing however tasteful. The Tourbillon Souscription respects the unique Daniel Roth case, measuring 35.5mm huge, 38.6mm lengthy, and 9.2mm thick. However the designers have optimized the yellow gold case properly. It’s mixed with a surprising Clous de Paris guilloché dial that reveals the DR001 caliber. The gorgeous tourbillon options three arms of various lengths to correspond with the three 20-second arcs on the entrance of the watch. The again reveals a mixture of guide finishes that’s nothing wanting spectacular. The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription is a worthy winner for this class.
GPHG 2024 — Calendar & Astronomy: IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Everlasting Calendar
Nominated watches: Anton Suhanov Chronotope, Frederique Fixed Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake, H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Chinese language Calendar, Laurent Ferrier Traditional Moon Silver, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar
The IWC Portugieser Everlasting Calendar was one other unanimous choose for this listing. The truth that IWC was capable of create a watch with a calendar that runs flawlessly till 3999 is bonkers. Plus, it has a moonphase indicator that, theoretically, solely must be corrected after 45 million years! Sure, this watch is extremely particular. The Everlasting Calendar has a four-digit yr indicator, moonphase indicator at 12 o’clock, the date and energy reserve at 3 o’clock, the month at 6 o’clock, and the working seconds and day indicator at 9 o’clock.
The in-house-developed caliber 52640 that makes it attainable sits inside a 44.4mm platinum case that’s solely 15mm thick. Contemplating how complicated this watch is, these dimensions are spectacular. The case additionally homes a sequence of sapphire discs for the time and calendar capabilities. It provides the watch a really distinct and trendy look. On high of that, you’ll instantly acknowledge that this watch is one thing particular. However the true magic is within the outstanding everlasting calendar motion that makes this an prompt win for us.
GPHG 2024 — Mechanical Exception: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé
Nominated watches: Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Extremely COSC, Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé, MB&F HM11 Architect, Piaget Altiplano Final Idea Tourbillon, Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad
This class is a little bit of a bizarre one. The entire nominated watches stand out for various causes. Whereas the technical wizardry is spectacular on all of them, a watch nonetheless must be enticing. The character of the assorted issues additionally provides them a distinct attraction. The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Extremely COSC instantly stands out because the (former) thinnest mechanical watch on the earth. Whereas Konstantin Chaykin now holds the title, that doesn’t make Bvlgari’s achievement any much less spectacular. One other technically unbelievable piece is the MB&F HM11 Architect. As an idea, it might instantly get my vote. However its conceptual nature additionally stretches the visible idea of a fantastic wristwatch.
In the long run, we settled on the Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé. It’s extra proof that Hermès is to not be forgotten with regards to mechanical wizardry. I’m an enormous fan of the model’s Arceau L’Heure de la Lune sequence. It confirmed a totally unique option to show a moonphase and mixed it with gorgeous supplies. However this yr’s Arceau Duc Attelé takes it to an entire different stage. The watch combines a triple-axis tourbillon and a “tuning-fork” minute repeater with two horse-shaped hammers.
It suits the model’s equestrian model flawlessly. The quite reserved mixture of a black dial and a titanium case makes the watch look rather a lot much less flashy than you may anticipate for a watch this technically gorgeous. That can also be what makes it such a fantastic choose in comparison with its friends. Nonetheless, it should be stated that there’s additionally a rose gold model with a blue dial that has that extra traditional aesthetic. However the watch nominated and our choose is the titanium model of the Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé.
GPHG 2024 — Chronograph: Angelus Instrument de Vitesse
Nominated watches: Angelus Instrument de Vitesse, Louis Vuitton × Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie, Massena Lab Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena Lab, Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Break up Seconds Chronograph, TAG Heuer Monaco Break up-Seconds Chronograph, Zenith Chronomaster Unique Triple Calendar
The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse is a surprising classically impressed monopusher chronograph. The styling of this one-minute chronograph takes after devices discovered on the dashboards of traditional vehicles. As you’ll be able to see, the dial encompasses a single chronograph hand and a pusher built-in into the crown to start out, cease, and reset it. Powering the watch is the hand-wound in-house A5000 caliber. With its intricate ending, is a pleasure to see via the case again.
Angelus made solely 25 items of every of the 2 colorways, they usually shortly discovered their option to followers. Whereas the watch may not be the visible and mechanical tour de pressure that among the different nominated watches are, we love the traditional appears of the Instrument de Vitesse along with the gorgeous monopusher caliber. Typically, it’s not concerning the muscle mass however, quite, the wits mixed with the class.
GPHG 2024 — Sports activities: Singer Reimagined Divetrack
Nominated watches: IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Efficiency Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas Components One Group, Ming 37.09 Bluefin, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, Singer Reimagined Divetrack, Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Biking Version,” Zenith Defy Excessive Diver
The Singer Reimagined Divetrack was one other speedy choose for us all. We have now fairly a couple of avid divers on the Fratello staff who fell in love with the watch as quickly as they noticed it. This watch utterly reimagines the traditional diver’s timepiece as the last word diving instrument. So depart behind your typical ideas about what a diving chronograph is as a result of this isn’t merely a dive watch with a chronograph perform to time occasions.
The Divetrack makes use of the fundamental idea of a chronograph to time your total dive journey. That idea is breathtaking and all about Fly, Chill, and Dive. Do you need to know extra? I counsel that you simply learn Robert-Jan’s article concerning the theoretics of the watch.
However let’s not overlook that Singer additionally has a signature model that makes this Divetrack immediately recognizable. The titanium case is a whopping 49mm in diameter and 19.67mm thick. In fact, that’s big, however bear in mind: that is the last word diving instrument, not a luxurious watch that finds a spot underneath the cuff of your ironed shirt.
The large case holds the gorgeous AgenGraphe 24-h Computerized Chronograph, which consists of 479 components. It’s a correct piece of excessive horology that revolutionizes the world of mechanical dive watches. Sure, the CHF 85,000 value makes this a luxurious watch. Nonetheless, the concept behind it and the ingenious execution make it one of the best entry within the Sports activities class.
GPHG 2024 — Petite Aiguille: Kudoke 3 Salmon
Nominated watches: Amida Take Off Version, Christiaan van der Klaauw Ariadne, Frederique Fixed Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture seconde/seconde/, Furlan Marri Perpetual One, Kudoke 3 Salmon, Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
The Petite Aiguille award is for watches with a retail value between CHF 3,000 and CHF 10,000. We picked the Kudoke 3 Salmon, which is actually a time-only watch. Nonetheless, the best way the watch reveals the hours is quite nifty. Stefan Kudoke created a show with a central minute hand on high and a three-layered hour indicator beneath a surprising salmon higher dial. Three arms point out the hour over three completely different scales. When one hand reaches the top of a scale, one other hand seems at first of the subsequent one.
As you’ll be able to see, hours 2, 6, and 10 are displayed twice at first and the top of two scales. It’s a enjoyable, completely different means of displaying the time, resulting in an fascinating design we like rather a lot. Kudoke employed an ingenious answer through the use of the screws that join the higher dial, decrease dial, and the chapter ring to mark 10, 20, 40, and 50 minutes. The particular development sits inside a 39mm case that’s solely 10.3mm thick and comprises Kaliber 1, which makes all of the mechanical magic attainable. The Kudoke 3 Salmon could be a worthy winner on this class.
GPHG 2024 — Problem: Otsuka Lotec No.6
Nominated watches: Beaubleu Seconde Française, Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase, Furlan Marri Disco Verde, Kollokium Projekt 01, Otsuka Lotec No.6, SpaceOne Tellurium
For the Problem class that awards one of the best watch equal to or underneath CHF 3,000, we picked the No.6 from Otsuka Lotec. The unbiased Japanese model based by Jiro Katayama has shortly develop into a fan favourite. For his creations, Katayama takes inspiration from Twentieth-century gauges and devices present in vehicles, trains, and planes. It’s not shocking that he studied automotive design and labored at Japanese automobile manufacturers earlier than his journey into watches began. The No.6 is a good instance of these design influences. The watch has a correct instrument-like aesthetic that resembles an air strain gauge.
All of it begins with a 42.6mm by 11.8mm case. It holds a Miyota 9015 with a module developed by Otsuka Lotec. Turning the watch round, you’ll see the dial is screwed onto the motion. This ensures the dial and bezel are aligned on the identical peak. The dial holds scales for the hours and minutes and a date window. The retrograde hour and minute arms are mounted on the identical axis. Consequently, the 2 arms each return to 0 upon reaching 12. Because of an ingenious development, the returning of the arms is managed to inside 60 seconds, and a cam used for the hour hand controls the angle of the hour hand all the way down to 0.1 levels. Till now, the watches have solely been accessible in Japan, however Thor revealed that Katayama plans to export his watches beginning this yr or subsequent.
Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix: Louis Vuitton × Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie
Yearly, there’s additionally an general winner that will get the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix. It’s the greatest out of all of the nominated watches. This yr, we might love and anticipate the award to go to the distinctive LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. This collaboration between Louis Vuitton and unbiased watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi has resulted in a completely gorgeous timepiece.
The double-faced chronograph is the primary challenge that Louis Vuitton launched into in a sequence of collaborations with unbiased watchmakers. Robert-Jan was current on the launch of this watch and was severely impressed by the fervour and craftsmanship that each Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi put into it.
Not solely is the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie a horological masterpiece, however the watch additionally incorporates stylistic particulars from each its collaborators. With the Tambour-inspired 39.5mm platinum case, the exquisitely crafted Rexhepi-style dials, and the outstanding motion combining chronograph and sonnerie issues, this watch is a real murals. Robert-Jan’s article will give a very good perception into why this watch is extra than simply the sum of its components. The story is strictly why it deserves the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix.
Closing ideas on our picks for the GPHG 2024 awards ceremony
There you’ve got it — a protracted listing of potential winners at subsequent week’s GPHG 2024 awards ceremony. We should wait and see whether or not our picks will certainly come out on high. Within the meantime, tell us your favorites within the feedback part beneath. We are going to see you subsequent week for a brand new listing.
