Our Sunday Morning Showdowns are normally fairly smart. Okay…comparatively smart. We frequently pit two attainable on a regular basis watches in opposition to one another to see which wins the favored vote. Nicely, right this moment is a bit completely different. At the moment, we’ve got a brawl between two Nouvelle Horlogerie watches that, until you’re studying this from the sundeck of your 200-foot yacht, are fully unobtainable. That is the Urwerk EMC SR-71 versus the MB&F Horological Machine 8 Mark 2, two high-end, ultra-modern, extremely inventive, and unconventional watches.
We’re typically criticized if two SMS opponents aren’t completely comparable in each approach, together with specs, value, style, colour, and so forth. Nicely, right this moment is an announcement of intent that our showdowns aren’t restricted to smart client recommendation. Typically, they’re merely enjoyable thought experiments or purely hypothetical comparisons. At the moment’s fighters are miles aside in value, idea, and specs. You’ll get over it, my pricey Fratelli. Most wounds heal with time.
However first, final week’s showdown
Earlier than we get into the artsy-modern-watch violence, we must always have a fast have a look at final week’s showdown. The distinction with this week’s may hardly be larger as a result of we pitted two entry-level divers in opposition to one another. I (Thomas) defended the Seiko King Turtle, whereas Daan introduced a gun to a knife struggle with the Certina DS Tremendous PH1000M.
Not surprisingly, Daan received. The Certina, in any case, reveals that just about doubling your outlay on this phase actually does get you much more watch. On this sense, right this moment’s SMS is a cool follow-up because it demonstrates the legislation of diminishing returns. The upper the phase, the smaller the refinements each further greenback (and even doubling) buys you. The Certina, at nearly twice the Seiko’s value, is clearly twice the watch. The Urwerk, at nearly twice the MB&F’s value, is just not. Extra on that later!
My solely hope final week was the King Turtle’s legendary standing. And certainly, it turned out very shut. The Certina received by simply 6% with 53% of the votes. Commenters identified the superior specs of the Certina. The King Seiko’s date magnifier (aligned or not so aligned) caught flack too. However, as I hoped, there’s nonetheless numerous love for Seiko Turtles locally. So, with solely a comparatively small dent in my ego, I step again into the ring with Jorg right this moment. Let’s get into Urwerk versus MB&F!
Thomas: Urwerk EMC SR-71
I’m afraid I’ve ended up defending the underdog as soon as extra right this moment. In true B-Rabbit model, let me diss myself first to take some low-hanging fruit away from Jorg. The primary huge knock in opposition to the Urwerk is the value. We’re speaking CHF 150,000 versus the MB&F’s CHF 73,000. I’ll make an effort to justify that hole, however I’ll admit it’s a robust tablet to swallow. Then again, whether it is, you’re in all probability not the audience…
Then, there’s the model notion. Max Büsser & Pals is sort of merely way more seen and distinguished within the fashionable watch trade. The model is probably the go-to for inventive, ultra-modern watchmaking. Urwerk is way more area of interest on this sense. It appears to fly a bit extra beneath the radar. SR-71 Blackbird…get it?
The Urwerk EMC SR-71 is extra related
One of many returning criticisms we see on Fratello relating to this style of watch is that it’s all simply decadent stuff for the 1%. Whereas that is maybe true, additionally it is solely a part of the story. I believe it’s good to have a handful of artists engaged on the fringes. These are creatives who aren’t tied to budgets and who get to experiment and push issues additional than anyone else. Even when it doesn’t lead to trickle-down know-how, it may not less than push boundaries creatively. I respect this infinitely greater than manufacturers simply throwing diamonds at each a part of an in any other case mundane watch.
However, whereas we’re on the topic, I do really feel the Urwerk EMC SR-71 is extra related on this sense. In case you missed my announcement article, that is an ingenious watch with a helpful complication. The mechanical motion is augmented with a circuit working a reference time. On the push of a button, you may measure the watch’s accuracy and show it on one of many watch’s dials. The thought is to offer extra feeling with mechanical timekeeping, permitting you to see in actual time how your environment have an effect on your watch. If the deviation will get too huge, you may even alter it your self by a screw on the case again. The electronics are wound by way of the crank on the case flank. This crank is manufactured from authentic SR-71 Blackbird titanium alloy.
In the meantime, the MB&F “solely” finds a really sophisticated and costly strategy to show the time. It doesn’t supply something new past complicating present issues. To me, this justifies the Urwerk being the dearer of the 2, though such issues are inconceivable to quantify.
The Urwerk EMC SR-71 has a greater design
This level extends to the designs of each watches. Whereas each are absolutely in-house, hand-built artworks, the Urwerk continues to be a watch. The MB&F is extra of an ornate objet d’artwork. Its form is under no circumstances impressed by the operate it goals to carry out. It’s odd for oddness’s sake.
The Urwerk EMC SR-71, in the meantime, isn’t a lot much less inventive. It’s, nevertheless, way more practical. Its form is extra naturally shaped round a set of dials with distinct functions. It even pays homage to conventional watchmaking, referencing the classical sub-seconds structure in reverse. The hours and minutes are introduced in an abstracted sub-dial beneath the working seconds. I’ll admit that at 47.55mm × 49.57mm × 17.58mm, the Urwerk might be much less wearable than the HM8 at 41.5mm × 47mm × 19mm. However hey, you’re not shopping for both of those for his or her refined, on a regular basis enchantment, proper?
I may do with out the marginally gimmicky Blackbird connection, however issues like this are omnipresent within the watch world right this moment. Apparently, they work. Nonetheless, the Urwerk is conceptually stronger than the MB&F. The EMC SR-71 is a contemporary tackle conventional watchmaking, growing new issues, and making use of them in congruent but inventive methods. Now, Jorg, Papa Doc, take the mic and inform the nice folks why I’m mistaken.
Jorg: MB&F HM8 Mark 2
Thanks, Thomas! I wish to add that I don’t assume it’s essentially a case of proper and mistaken. On this planet of horology, I contemplate each Urwerk and MB&F manufacturers to create extraordinary timepieces that might be thought-about artwork. And as you realize, there is no such thing as a proper or mistaken on the planet of artwork, only a matter of style. On high of that, it additionally sparks the dialogue of what “performance” means and the way that ought to play a component within the choice for both of these two. It’s such a extremely private opinion that it’s exhausting to spin it as a common fact. Whereas I like performance with regards to common watches, I wish to be swooned by the visible magic of the watch as an object I take pleasure in as a lot off the wrist as on it.
However sufficient with the philosophical method to the technical and stylistic wizardry that these two manufacturers grace us with. For me, the choice for both one begins with the model relatively than its creations. As a inventive medium, I like what Max Büsser has accomplished with MB&F. With Max Büsser & Pals, he has created a collaborative platform led by creativeness and outside-the-box pondering. By working along with completely different impartial creatives, Büsser manages to provide you with spectacular timepieces time and time once more.
A inventive platform that turns right into a relatable story
Basically, MB&F has put technical and aesthetical creativity on the middle of the model. Consequently, design isn’t one of many parameters on a guidelines. For me, it interprets right into a love for the model that begins with a philosophy I like relatively than merely loving the watches. But when we change to these, I additionally desire MB&F’s conceptual design method, which is vastly completely different from the one Urwerk chooses. There may be numerous romance in Büsser’s work that may be traced again to the Twentieth-century world of design, significantly automotive design. Urwerk feels much less romantic and extra utilitarian, nearly sci-fi-like. It’s a very completely different vibe, and I really feel extra related to the previous.
My respect for the inventive platform and appreciation for the design influences be certain that I’ve an underlying love for all of the MB&F creations. It doesn’t imply I like or would put on all of them. I simply have a common bond with the model and its tales. That additionally doesn’t imply I don’t love Urwerk as a model or its creations. I am keen on the UR-100, the EMC Time Hunter, and the EMC SR-71. Nonetheless, I don’t really feel the identical connection to the final one which I really feel to the MB&F HM8 Mark 2.
Getting used to the HM8 Mark 2
Talking of which, the HM8 Mark 2 was first unveiled in 2023. Its design is impressed by the good supercars of the world. The primary two Mark 2 variants featured white or inexperienced physique panels with the sapphire crystal’s distinctive “double bubble” form. It instantly jogs my memory of the vehicles I admired as a younger boy. And the sensible strategy to learn the time isn’t just “a really sophisticated and costly strategy to show the time.” It additionally faucets into the reminiscences of numerous watch followers who additionally occur to like vehicles. As you’ll know, Büsser himself is certainly one of them and doesn’t cover his influences for the timepieces. That makes the story a lot a couple of primarily based on type following operate.
However sufficient rambling out feelings and reminiscences as a result of the execution can be inspirational. The HM8 Mark 2 has a novel case development. The chassis is produced from Grade 5 titanium, and the colourful physique components you see are produced from MB&F’s proprietary CarbonMacrolon. Lastly, each the exhibition case again and hood are manufactured from curved sapphire, which isn’t simple to attain. The case measures a neat 41.5mm × 47mm × 19mm, making it extra wearable than the Urwerk EMC and the earlier driver’s watches that MB&F created, just like the HMX and HM8. In his assessment, Daan referred to as it “a nifty little roadster in your wrist,” and I like that description.
Underneath the hood
It’s a roadster with a particular engine. The automated motion consists of a Girard-Perregaux base caliber and an in-house-developed module for leaping hours and trailing minutes with a novel time show. As soon as on the wrist, you see the 22K gold battle-axe rotor spinning as proof that the engine is working. A enjoyable and memorable element is that the hour and minute discs are positioned horizontally. To make sure you can learn the time at a 90-degree angle, the MB&F watchmakers set up two prisms that function magnifiers for higher legibility.
The result’s a trio of watches in several colours that stand out instantly. The HM8 Mark 2 is so much much less divisive relating to wearability than its opponent right this moment, although. It’d look much less standard than your EMC SR-71, Thomas. However whilst you may assume that the MB&F would want to win folks over with the model’s recognition and the ideas behind the design, the HM8 Mark 2 seems to be the extra wearable watch on this battle. It reveals that performance is a relative strategy to choose these timepieces. It simply will depend on what you’re searching for when you’re placing these two nice watches on the scales of our Sunday Morning Showdown. I don’t learn about our readers, however I might select the MB&F HM8 Mark 2 each time.
It’s time to vote!
However it’s lower than us, Thomas! It’s as much as our readers to vote! So, Fratelli, which one is your favourite, the Urwerk EMC SR-71 or the MB&F HM8 Mark 2? Forged your vote, and share your motivations within the feedback part under!
