The Gruen Curvex actually ranks as an essential line of historic watches. These items used quite a lot of curved circumstances and curved actions. Throughout their twenty years of manufacturing, they have been the head of fashion and rivaled dearer manufacturers. Gruen additionally has a deep tie to America, which brings one thing totally different to the story.
The Gruen Curvex is hardly unknown, nevertheless it usually escapes point out when collectors talk about iconic items from the extra adolescence of the wristwatch. The Curvex line of watches debuted in 1935 and was revolutionary because of the curved, wrist-hugging case designs. Extra importantly, the watches contained curved in-house-designed actions that adopted their case shapes. The importance is that many manufacturers started providing equally curved watches however used small, flat actions. The Curvex was made till the mid-’50s in a dizzying array of case types and supplies. In the present day, we are going to look at a beautiful Gruen Curvex Lieutenant from 1945.
Gruen — some historical past
Gruen has an attention-grabbing historical past as a model. German-born Dietrich Grün based the model in 1894 and moved in 1898 to the town that might turn into Gruen’s eternally house, Cincinnati, Ohio. He labored together with his two sons to design actions produced by among the most respected watchmakers in Europe. Names like Assmann, Moritz Grossmann, and Aegler (of Rolex fame) are simply among the names concerned with the model’s earliest watches. Then, in 1930, there have been co-branded Alpina-Gruen watches. However it was in 1935 that the Gruen Curvex made its introduction.
Earlier than we talk about the Curvex, let’s spend extra time on historical past. Gruen is usually grouped into the identical class as American manufacturers like Hamilton, Benrus, and Elgin. Nevertheless, some think about Gruen’s watches Swiss. Except for a short interval within the late Nineteen Fifties (there have been USA-made actions!), the model’s calibers got here from Europe. Nevertheless, Gruen designed its actions within the US and imported them. Circumstances have been made in America, and the meeting was completed in a fantastic European-styled headquarters above the “Queen Metropolis.”
The Gruen Curvex
The Gruen Curvex, in any kind, is an excellent instance of why classic watches are so attention-grabbing. The watches have anatomically appropriate curved circumstances that hug the wrist of the wearer. The actual innovation, although, was the usage of a curved motion. Per the classic advert above, Gruen touts the advantages of the curved caliber for 2 causes. First, the corporate claims that this bigger motion has “pocket-watch accuracy.” Subsequent, the truth that it takes up the entire inside area supposedly makes it extra rugged. Over almost twenty years, Gruen used 4 in-house calibers for the Curvex line. Gruen made many curved watches, however the 311, 330, 440, and 370 are the one true Curvex actions per this extremely informative web site.
A wild variety of variants
The Gruen Curvex was out there in over 200 types with circumstances in many alternative supplies. Some case types are extremely ornate, whereas others are fairly streamlined. Relating to metals, this was the period of gold. In fact, stable gold has all the time been costly, so a lot of the watches had gold-filled circumstances. Lighter-colored dials are the commonest, however I’ve seen darker dials, and a few even embrace diamonds. Returning to the circumstances, we see some Curvex fashions with extremely lengthy, greater-than-50mm spans. Some are shorter and fewer curved. Others, such because the Ristside line, have been made to take a seat on the facet of the wrist for straightforward viewing throughout driving. A fast search on eBay will reveal an interesting variety of variants.
My Curvex search
The Gruen Curvex has been in my lexicon for so long as I can recall. My dad used to say them once I was a child, and so they have been fairly common through the ’80s when small watches have been extra in model. Lately, I’ve dipped again into this model of watch, however my focus has primarily been on Swiss items. Someday, it dawned on me that America was fairly outstanding in watchmaking through the ’40s, so why not begin to take a look at items from a number of key manufacturers? “Curvex” quickly joined an extended listing of search phrases on my regular looking grounds.
The specifics for my Curvex hunt have been pretty easy. I wished an reasonably priced solid-gold piece with a pleasant dial. The case wanted to be curvy and fairly lengthy. If all of that sounds cheap, it’s not! Most watches from this era both have rotten or refinished dials. On high of that, solid-gold items are uncommon. I don’t thoughts a gold-filled case, however many present heavy put on. Lastly, many watches on the market carry a ridiculous price ticket and by no means promote.
Jackpot!
Earlier this yr, I used to be roughly per week away from touring house to South Florida. One night time, as I used to be perusing eBay, I stumbled upon a surprising Gruen Curvex Lieutenant from 1946 in 14K rose gold. It was listed by a coin vendor in Chicago and with nice footage of the dial and the case particulars. The watch seemed unused, got here on a plated classic Kreisler bracelet, and included its unique field and paperwork. The unique price ticket of $92.50 was even contained in the field! The one situation was that it was not working. It was listed with a good Purchase It Now worth of $790 however the choice to make a suggestion. We agreed on a lower cost, and the watch was at house once I arrived.
It’s all the time fascinating to take a look at a barely worn watch that’s almost 80 years outdated. Whereas the Curvex contained mud beneath its mineral crystal, all the pieces else was in excellent situation. The wonderful horizontal graining on the facet of the case and signed crown displayed no proof of use. The motion, nonetheless, was overwound and confirmed no indicators of life.
Picture: Richard Askham
Off for a service
Once I returned to the UK, I contacted Richard Askham. Richard is a watchmaker I used pre-Brexit whereas residing in Germany, and he had all the time completed a pleasant job of speaking and servicing my oddball classic items. The Gruen Curvex was on its approach for what I hoped was a easy cleansing and servicing. Richard discovered the unique blued steel mainspring within the motion and tried to interchange it with a contemporary substitute. He tried two totally different thicknesses of springs of the proper size, and neither would work with the Gruen caliber 440. The energy of the fashionable supplies threw the motion out of stability relying on the place. The unique mainspring needed to be referred to as again into service. He wasn’t content material with the timekeeping outcomes, however at the very least it was working reliably.
The 440 isn’t essentially the most dramatic Curvex motion. Earlier calibers have been longer and extra curved. Nonetheless, it’s a pleasant 17-jewel hand-winding motion that beats at an 18,000vph frequency. So far as accuracy, Richard talked about that the watch could enhance with working and carrying. I’ve worn it closely since he returned it, and the accuracy is implausible, so maybe this outdated motion is lastly getting the use it deserves after virtually eight many years!
The case and dial
The Gruen Curvex Lieutenant has a superbly curved case that might work properly for a number of high-end Swiss manufacturers. It’s easy and extremely streamlined. There’s good detailing, although, with pointed lugs, chamfered flanks, and matte ending on the perimeters. This watch, like many from the period, has a snap-on case again. The dial and motion then elevate away from the highest a part of the case. You’ll word the “W” on the case again subsequent to the gold marking. The Wadsworth Watch Case Co. produced this case. Wadsworth was a outstanding, high-quality producer from Kentucky that began in 1889 making pocket watch circumstances. It’s good to personal such a beautiful piece of American watchmaking historical past. Word the gold tone. It’s rose however far much less pink than different rose gold watches I’ve seen or owned. There’s additionally no tarnish.
The coppery dial on this Gruen Curvex is simply as charming because the case. Utilized gold-tone numerals and dotted indices match equally coloured palms. That is paired with printed black particulars for the outer minute monitor, sub-dial monitor, and font. The general structure is clear and completely spaced. Word the “Switzerland” on the backside of the dial and the serifs on the assorted letters.
Sporting the Gruen Curvex
Most readers will remark that this Gruen Curvex is just too small based mostly on its dimension of 22mm by 40mm. Not way back, I’d have agreed. Nevertheless, I’ve turn into extra open-minded to smaller rectangular watches from the golden age. In addition to, the size of this watch is inside earshot of a typical 36mm Rolex Oyster case. A watch like that is gentle and suits superbly beneath a shirt sleeve. I’ve loved carrying it in all environments apart from people who would possibly embrace water.
So far as the curved case, it’s supremely snug. At simply 8mm thick (add one other 4mm in case you’re measuring it on a flat floor to the highest of the crystal), it’s additionally fairly slim. The watch conforms so properly that I ponder why extra firms don’t comply with this manner in the present day. Simply think about a brand new, bespoke curved motion from one of many extra prestigious manufacturers. As you’ll be able to see, I’ve paired this watch with a hand-crafted customized 16mm strap. It’s excellent for the watch and enhances the case and dial tones.
A beautiful object
To be honest, there are bigger Gruen Cruvex fashions, however they’re troublesome to seek out in nice situation. Nonetheless, I believe this Lieutenant carries simply sufficient presence to work on quite a lot of wrist sizes. I take pleasure in my wrist once I’m carrying this watch. I additionally love to put it on a flat floor and marvel at its extremely curved case. Sure, I usually geek out in regards to the trivia in the case of my watches, and this Gruen exemplifies that behavior. It’s a stunning watch and punches properly above its weight class.
Parting phrases
The Gruen Curvex is a gem from a time when America was aggressive within the watchmaking business. Sure, Gruen used Swiss actions, however the design work and meeting got here from the USA. This was a rustic that was producing Packards, Duesenbergs, and Cadillacs, so it’s good to see the identical stage of design confidence in watches. So far as collectability, the Curvex will all the time stay common. It’s a family title with most classic collectors, and after lastly buying one, I can totally agree that it needs to be.
