The One hundred and fortieth anniversary of Breitling has introduced with it three stupendous watches. Navitimer, Premier, and Tremendous Chronomat Perpetual Calendar items in purple gold rejoice the milestone. We’ve managed to get our palms on every of them, so sit up for in-depth critiques of all three. At present, we begin with the most important of the bunch, the Tremendous Chronomat. Nonetheless, this beast is an actual magnificence.
Breitling does a pleasant job of releasing new watches usually. Many are new colour variants, however we’ve additionally seen our justifiable share of totally new fashions. This yr, for the model’s One hundred and fortieth birthday, a trio of extremely sophisticated watches have entered the scene. Every mannequin is proscribed to 140 items, and since they’re made from 18K purple gold and outfitted with some of the fascinating motion varieties, they’re dear. After seeing the watches and attempting them on throughout Geneva Watch Days 2024, every left an indelible impression. Let’s look at the sportiest mannequin, the Tremendous Chronomat Perpetual Calendar.
The Breitling Tremendous Chronomat Perpetual Calendar
The Tremendous Chronomat Perpetual Calendar is a strapping 44mm by 53.5mm watch with a 15.35mm thickness and a 100m water resistance score. We haven’t obtained phrase of future fashions, however for the One hundred and fortieth anniversary, the one accessible case materials is 18K purple gold.
The watch comes solely on a Rouleaux-styled black rubber strap with an 18K folding buckle. One other materials selection value mentioning is shiny black ceramic. You’ll discover it on the bidirectional 60-minute bezel, crown, and pushers.
An open-worked dial
For this mannequin’s dial, Breitling selected a extra audacious path according to the character of the Tremendous Chronometer Perpetual Calendar. In any case, it is a daring, sporty watch that can be seen on anybody’s wrist. An open-worked dial exhibits components of the motion but in addition creates definition for the array of performance. A lattice-like construction suspends the 4 sub-dials and types bridges to the utilized purple gold hour markers. I’m not usually a fan of open-worked dials, however it works on this software resulting from a number of elements. The colour scheme, measurement of the watch, and the dearth of open house resulting from the entire sub-dials make it enticing as an alternative of cheesy.
One may additionally simply argue that the watch shines at night time. The green-hued Tremendous-LumiNova shines like a beacon on the central palms, the hour indexes, and the bezel’s rider tabs.
Issues galore
One look on the Tremendous Chronomat Perpetual Calendar lets an onlooker know that is no regular Breitling. The topmost sub-dial is a moonphase indicator. The left sub-register incorporates a central gold hand that signifies the day whereas a smaller white hand information the working seconds. The best sub-dial has an outer monitor with the date and an inside 30-minute chronograph scale. Lastly, the underside sub-register exhibits the month and a intercalary year indicator. In fact, the watch has centrally mounted palms for the time and chronograph seconds. A tachymeter scale can also be included for good measure.
A gem within the engine room
For the trio of One hundred and fortieth-anniversary watches, Breitling has rolled out the brand new in-house, chronometer-certified B19 automated motion. The Tremendous Chronomat Perpetual Calendar shows this motion by means of a rear sapphire crystal. The 22K purple gold rotor depicts the model’s historic Montbrillant Manufactory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Côtes de Genève ending can also be seen on the topmost plate. The motion has a frequency of 28,800vph and a formidable energy reserve of 96 hours. Breitling is thought for its wonderful in-house chronograph actions, however this was a shock worthy of an anniversary.
A daring magnificence on the wrist
I had the possibility to spend ample time with the Tremendous Chronomat Perpetual Calendar on the Geneva Breitling Boutique. Of the three anniversary fashions, I anticipated to love this piece the least, however that wasn’t the case. Sure, it’s large and “in your face,” however it’s beautiful. Breitling continues to impress with ending and case development. Regardless of a big case measurement, the watch curves properly and conforms to the wrist.
For sure, a smaller measurement can be higher for me, however anybody with a barely bigger (say, 7″) wrist may simply put on this watch. The opposite side that I preferred was the rubber strap. It was snug, prime quality, and dealt effectively with the substantial weight of the watch head.
Last ideas
Breitling is making 140 examples of the Tremendous Chronomat Perpetual Calendar, every with a retail worth of €55,000 / £48,000 / US$59,000. The manufacturing numbers and worth alone imply they’re not geared toward everybody. That’s okay, although, as a result of this watch accomplishes a number of key duties. It exhibits that Breitling can play within the statement-watch sport simply in addition to any of the bigger gamers. Additionally, the motion bodes effectively for future developments and Breitling’s latest acquisition, Common Genève. The truth that the watch wears so effectively and appears so good is icing on the cake.
For extra info on the Tremendous Chronomat Perpetual Calendar One hundred and fortieth Anniversary, go to the official Breitling web site.
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Watch specs
Mannequin
Tremendous Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar One hundred and fortieth Anniversary
Dial
Open-worked with black sub-dials and utilized 18K purple gold hour markers with Tremendous-LumiNova
Case Materials
18K purple gold with ceramic rider tab and bezel inserts, crown, and pushers
Case Dimensions
44mm (diameter) × 53.5mm (lug-to-lug) × 15.35mm (thickness)
Crystal
Cambered sapphire, glareproofed on each side
Case Again
18K purple gold and cambered sapphire crystal, screw-in
Motion
Breitling B19: in-house automated chronograph perpetual calendar with handbook winding and hacking, 28,800vph frequency, 96-hour energy reserve, column wheel, vertical clutch, COSC-certified chronometer, 22K purple gold rotor
Water Resistance
100 meters
Strap
Rouleaux-inspired rubber strap (22/20mm) with an 18K purple gold folding clasp
Capabilities
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), chronograph (30-minute register, central seconds), perpetual calendar (day, date, month, intercalary year), moonphase indicator, tachymeter, 60-minute bidirectional bezel
Value
€55,000 / £48,000 / US$59,000
Particular Word(s)
Restricted to 140 items