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In watchmaking, there are enamel dials, after which there are Grand Feu enamel dials. Whereas loads of manufacturers describe their dials as enamel, that hardly begins to seize the artistry, craftsmanship, and dedication required to create true Grand Feu enamel. This enameling course of, through which every dial is made by hand, follows a meticulous collection of manufacturing steps, together with a number of firings at particular temperatures, fixed inspections, and a excessive rejection fee within the pursuit of perfection. Not surprisingly, it may take years, if not many years, to grasp the method. Consequently, there are only a few enamelers on this planet keen and in a position to create true Grand Feu enamel dials. Ématelier, one of many few masters of Grand Feu enameling, is proud to announce a brand new assortment of watches that includes sunken, double-sunken, and cloisonné Grand Feu enamel dials.
Ématlier isn’t your typical watch model. In truth, one might argue that it’s a producer of boutique, and infrequently bespoke, Grand Feu enamel dials that additionally occurs to make watches. A lot of what Ématelier does is create customized watch dials — miniature artistic endeavors — for shoppers’ watches. All through Ématalier’s gallery, you’ll discover miniaturized reproductions of well-known artworks from Chagall, van Gogh, and Matisse, intricately detailed scenes of vegetation and animals, and celestial tapestries. These mini-masterpieces require a bunch of specialised methods, however the course of of making even a comparatively easy (for Grand Feu) monochrome enamel dial is extremely advanced and may embody sunken dials, double-sunken dials, and totally different colours for each the dial and markings.
Many manufacturers describe their dials as enamel, although that broad descriptor usually encompasses supplies like porcelain, ceramic, lacquer, or simply about any shiny dial. Although these dials may be stunning and flawless, the method is nothing like that required to create a real Grand Feu enamel dial. Sadly, producers usually misleadingly use the time period “enamel” as a way to affiliate their dials with the genuine, handmade craftsmanship of Grand Feu enamel.
Each Grand Feu dial, regardless of how easy or advanced, is totally handmade. The method begins with coating a base metallic with layers of glass powder on the back and front and baking in a kiln at 750C, then including printing with enamel and firing once more at 550C. Easy, proper? Hardly.
Relying on the impact Ématelier is attempting to attain, its artisans might select gold, silver, copper, metal, or one other metallic, as the bottom materials can render the identical coloration in another way when heated within the kiln. The bottom line is to decide on the right metallic that may keep away from warping, fire-scale inclusions, floor bubbles, and different imperfections. In different phrases, the colour and floor of the completed product require beginning with the suitable base materials.
As soon as the bottom materials has been chosen, the following step is to start making use of layer after layer of enamel. Every layer should be baked at a particularly excessive temperature, sometimes round 750C. Even a few-degree deviation from the suitable temperature — or just a few seconds too lengthy within the kiln — can improve the chance of cracking, warping, or creating undesirable results that may finally consequence within the dial being rejected. Sometimes, extra layers corresponds with a better-quality, extra luxurious dial, but each further layer provides to the chance of failure. As such, it takes years of expertise and experience to constantly obtain profitable outcomes.
After every layer of enamel has been exactly and expertly utilized, the following step is sprucing. The dial might look flawless popping out of the kiln, however sprucing can reveal inner bubbles or different flaws that result in the dial being rejected. Not surprisingly, that is a particularly delicate process and another reason that so few manufacturers create true Grand Feu enamel dials.
As soon as the enamel layers have been laid down, it’s time so as to add markings and indices. This can be a way more advanced course of than printing with common inks, requiring specialised inks that should be returned to the kiln for firing at roughly 550C as a way to soften the ink into the floor with out damaging the bottom enamel. As with enameling the dial, any deviations in firing time or temperature can result in catastrophe. The duty will get much more advanced when including totally different fonts with various line thickness or strains and designs with a number of colours. Every added element requires extra firings, extra layers, and extra complexity. To make sure the most effective outcomes and retain management over every step within the course of Ématelier manufactures its personal printing plates in-house.
All through the method of making the dial, the artisans at Ématelier should additionally hold a key level in thoughts: The dial is only one a part of the general watch. Every dial would require particular tolerances in diameter and thickness, the placement of the dial toes, and different parameters that may make sure that the dial integrates seamlessly with the completed watch. In the long run, every dial is encoded with the manufacturing date, reference to dimensions, plate materials, enamel(s) used, variety of firings, firing temperatures, and different traits of the manufacturing course of to make sure consistency throughout manufacturing runs.
A Grand Feu enamel dial is way more than only a dial. It’s a 100% handmade murals, crafted by expert artisans who’ve perfected their craft over a few years. With a lot that may go unsuitable, even with probably the most skilled artisans, rejection charges for dials are extraordinarily excessive, and Grand Feu enamel dials merely can’t be made in mass portions. Evaluate a Grand Feu enamel dial to a mass-production dial underneath a loupe and you’ll, certainly, discover tiny imperfections. These are removed from defects — fairly, they’re the “magnificence marks” that show that every dial was constructed by skilled palms, not machines. You’ll be able to study extra about Ématelier’s strategy of enameling black dials right here. To study extra about Ématelier and the brand new 2024 Sprezzatura assortment of watches, please go to the model’s web site.
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