Dedicated to producing simply 299 watches annually, the Swiss impartial model Brellum may be very a lot a small-scale operation, although I persistently discover myself impressed by the standard and a focus to element amongst its merchandise. A substantial portion of Brellum’s modern catalog is predicated upon its signature DuoBox case, and this serves as the inspiration for associated fashions such because the Pandial and Pilot sequence. Increasing upon this core platform for its newest launch of 2024 is the Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer, which provides a full suite of calendar problems and might be produced as a restricted version of simply 46 examples.
From an exterior standpoint, the case of the brand new Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer is more-or-less equivalent to what may be discovered on the model’s Pilot LE.2 GMT that I beforehand reviewed. Crafted from chrome steel with brushed and polished surfaces, the case measures 41.8mm in diameter by 11.7mm thick, with 22mm lugs and an general lug-to-lug profile of roughly 51.8mm. When you issue within the pair of box-shaped sapphire crystals which are fitted to both facet of the watch, the general top of the Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase is available in at 15.9mm (the identical because the Pilot GMT sequence), and whereas this on-paper measurement is admittedly reasonably thick, the curvature of the caseback mixed with the pair of box-shaped crystals goes a good distance towards reducing the visible top of the watch and permitting it to sit down comfortably on the wrist.
Just like the model’s Pilot GMT fashions, the Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer includes a skinny polished bezel sounding its crystal, whereas the right-hand facet of the case is furnished by a signed winding crown flanked by a set of pump-style chronograph pushers. The load of the watch is available in at a complete of 112 grams (together with its strap), and similar to the remainder of Brellum’s fashions that use its signature Duobox case, water resistance is a strong 100 meters to guard towards most types of moisture contact. With that in thoughts, the one key element that separates the case of the brand new Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase from these of its Pilot GMT siblings is the inclusion of a small push-piece that sits recessed into the facet of the case at 10 o’clock, and that is used to regulate day show on the watch.
As probably the most dressy and formal mannequin that’s based mostly upon the Duobox case, the Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase has a dial that’s noticeably extra refined than what you can find amongst watches from the Pandial or Pilot collections, and it largely follows the blueprint established by the Brellum Duobox LE.4 from 2019. That includes a barely recessed white outer ring with a silver sunburst center part, the dial is furnished with utilized Roman numeral hour makers and small inverted triangles on the cardinal factors. Moreover, regardless of the reasonably complete calendar performance of its motion, the dial of the brand new Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase stays pretty clear and well-organized. A trio of sub-dials is organized in a 6-9-12 formation, whereas two apertures for the day and month are positioned inside the register at 12 o’clock, and a calendar monitor for the pointer date is printed alongside the periphery of the dial.
Along with its moonphase show and trio of calendar problems, the brand new limited-edition Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer additionally includes a 12-hour chronograph, together with a 24-hour show of the time that serves as a day/evening indicator. Set inside the sub-dial at 12 o’clock is a small black-finished hand that tracks elapsed minutes for the chronograph, whereas one other equivalent hand is mounted on high of the moonphase show and serves because the hours totalizer. The third register at 9 o’clock has two arms stacked on high of one another, and whereas the longer black-finished hand capabilities because the operating seconds for the time, the shorter polished hand is linked to the 2 central time-telling arms, and it serves because the day/evening indicator.
Nearly all of the arms on the brand new limited-edition Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer are both polished or completed black; nevertheless, the centrally-mounted chronograph seconds hand is darkish blue to match the star-filled sky on the moonphase disc. Strips of Tremendous-LumiNova are set inside the central hour and minute arms, whereas two small luminous dots are positioned on both facet of the inverted triangle at 12 o’clock to assist present an orientation of the time when considered at the hours of darkness. The day/evening indicator additionally options luminous markings which are printed in white Tremendous-LumiNova towards the white-finished floor of the sub-dial, though they reveal solar rays and a crescent moon when illuminated, and the luminous materials that seems on each the dial and arms emits a blue-colored glow at the hours of darkness.
Powering the Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase is the model’s Caliber BR-751 automated motion, which is predicated on the core structure of the Valjoux 7751. Just like the ETA/Valjoux caliber that serves as its basis, the Brellum Cal. BR-751 runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with an influence reserve of roughly 46 hours. Nevertheless, as a result of the Cal. BR-751 is a COSC-certified chronometer, it provides superior timekeeping in comparison with the usual model of this acquainted base motion, and the Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase is assured to run inside the tolerances of -4/+6 seconds per day. Ornament on the Caliber BR-751 can also be a step above what you get from a regular Valjoux 7751, and it options blued screws with perlage and Geneva stripes on the bridges, plus a rose gold-finished rotor that’s adorned with a practical etching of the moon and every watch’s particular person limited-edition quantity out of 46 complete examples.
Fitted to the lugs of the brand new Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer is a black alligator leather-based strap that tapers from 22mm on the case right down to 20mm the place it connects to its signed chrome steel deployant buckle. In contrast to a few of Brellum’s straps that characteristic fitted end-pieces to type an built-in look with the case (resembling the material strap fitted to the Pandial LE.5 DD DLC Full Black), the black alligator leather-based strap provides a extra conventional design with barely curved ends and built-in quick-release springbars to facilitate tool-free strap modifications. The small hole that exists between the strap and the center case offers the Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase with a extra conventional general look, whereas the brushed and polished push-button deployant clasp is equivalent to what may be discovered on watches such because the Pilot LE.2 GMT Chronometer.
Regardless of being probably the most feature-packed mannequin in Brellum’s present lineup, the brand new Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer is simply barely dearer than its siblings, and its pricing in the end appears fairly truthful contemplating its a number of problems and the overall stage of consideration to element that exists all through the watch. For these of us exterior the EU who don’t must pay VAT, the brand new Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer is priced at CHF 3,413.50 (or roughly $3,780 USD, on the time of writing). Whereas that is nonetheless a substantial sum of cash to spend on a watch, it additionally feels fairly cheap while you examine the Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase to related choices inside the business, and I may simply see this identical watch promoting for a considerably greater worth if it have been produced by any of the big-name Swiss luxurious manufacturers. For extra data on the Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer, please go to the model’s web site.
