Images by Jake Witkin
Among the many varied novelties from Jaeger-LeCoultre that had been unveiled this 12 months at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is well essentially the most technologically advanced. Provided that all the idea behind the model’s Duometre motion platform is to permit the implementation of a number of problems with out sacrificing timekeeping accuracy, a extremely difficult Duometre serves as the perfect showcase for this expertise, and the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is a visually arresting timepiece that comes with two of watchmaking’s most superior and prestigious problems.
Traditionally, one of many main obstacles when creating extremely advanced watches has been incorporating a number of problems with out sacrificing accuracy. Precision is contingent on having a steady and constant energy provide, and the addition of a number of problems can usually detract from a motion’s timekeeping potential. First launched in 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Duometre idea options two separate mainspring barrels and kit trains which can be each linked to a single regulatory organ, with one devoted to the timekeeping aspect of the motion, whereas the opposite powers the problems. This strategy permits the model so as to add quite a few completely different problems with out compromising the soundness of the motion’s energy provide.
Crafted from stable 18k pink gold and comprised of 34 separate elements, the case of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual ref. Q6202420 measures 44mm in diameter by 14.7mm thick, and it encompasses a easy rounded profile that’s impressed by the model’s savonette pocket watches from the nineteenth century. In French, the phrase “savonette” interprets to a small disc of cleaning soap with rounded edges, and this informs the general form of the watch. Whereas the extremely advanced motion is well the get together piece of the brand new Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, its case can be one of many standout options, and it provides an unassuming magnificence that exudes refinement, and it serves as the perfect basis for this mannequin’s technologically advanced show.
The highest of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual’s case is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal, whereas the reverse aspect of the watch receives a display-style caseback, and on the 3 o’clock location is a fluted crown with a rounded kind that enhances the sleek profile of the case. To allow a number of several types of ending strategies (brushing, high-polishing, and micro-blasting), the lugs are individually hooked up elements, and all the profile of the watch is easy and rounded, with the one straight traces showing on the polished sides of the lugs. Provided that the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is a stable gold perpetual calendar with a triple-axis tourbillon, resilience is hardly the first focus of this timepiece, though it nonetheless provides the usual 30 meters of water resistance to guard towards incidental contact.
Regardless of adhering to a reasonably conventional spherical profile, the case of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is deceptively advanced, and the edges of the lugs function recessed sections which can be adorned with a crisp micro-blasted end. Moreover, all the left-hand aspect of the case is occupied by a curved sapphire show window that showcases the mannequin’s signature Heliotourbillon complication. Whereas the model’s multi-axis Gyrotourbillon has been featured on a handful of various fashions because it first debuted again in 2004, JLC’s new Heliotourbillon takes this idea one step additional by including a 3rd axis to the design of the dual-axis Gyrotourbillon.
That includes a cylindrical hairspring, together with titanium cages and ceramic ball bearings to assist decrease friction, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new 163-component Heliotourbillon has its first cage set at a 90-degree angle to the stability wheel, whereas the second cage is positioned perpendicular to the primary one, and the third is about at 90 levels to the second cage (parallel to the primary). With that in thoughts, whereas the primary two tourbillon cages rotate as soon as each 30 seconds, the third rotates at half the velocity, making one full rotation every minute, and the cumulative outcomes of this design each counteract the consequences of gravity, whereas additionally making a charming mechanical construction that gyrates on the left-hand aspect of the show.
In contrast to its deceptively advanced case, the dial of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual locations its complexity entrance and middle, with its triple-axis tourbillon proudly displayed on the left-hand aspect above a darkish blue lacquer floor that’s supposed to resemble the star-filled sky. Sitting reverse the tourbillon on the right-hand aspect of the dial is a big register with utilized pink gold indexes that provides entry to the time, and on the 3 o’clock location is a grande date complication, which shows its numerical worth with two discs that seem by a single rectangular aperture within the dial.
Positioned each above and under the time-telling dial on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual are two energy reserve indicators (one devoted to every of the Duometre’s two barrels), and whereas the register on the higher half of the dial shows the day and moonphase, the register on the decrease half tracks the month and intercalary year cycle. At first look, the dial seems to have an uneven format, though it truly provides symmetry throughout its horizontal axis (3 o’clock to 9 o’clock), and this creates a extremely cohesive format with a restrained but putting general aesthetic.
Seen by the show window within the caseback is the model’s 89-jewel manufacture Caliber 388 manual-wind motion, which has a moonphase show that’s correct to in the future in 122 years, together with a perpetual calendar mechanism that may autonomously preserve monitor of the date up till the 12 months 2100 (one of many century years that breaks the conventional intercalary year cycle). Working at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with an influence reserve of roughly 46 hours for every mainspring barrel, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. 388 has been designed in such a means in order that its calendar mechanism will solely advance when the time is adjusted, and this implies it can’t be broken ought to customers set the time backward.
In our preliminary information protection about this launch, no picture of the reverse aspect of the watch was supplied, and it was unclear whether or not Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual was fitted with a stable or show caseback. Nevertheless, simply as I had hoped, a sapphire caseback reveals the intricate ending of the motion, and all of its elements (even those that aren’t seen) are embellished with perlage, brushing, hand-beveled polished edges, and sunray Geneva stripes (côtes de Genève soleillées) radiating outwards from the middle. Moreover, similar to all of JLC’s actions, the Caliber 388 is designed, produced, assembled, and completed fully by the well-known Swiss producer.
Fitted to the lugs of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual with curved springbars is a darkish brown alligator leather-based strap that’s accomplished by an identical 18k pink gold folding clasp. As an ultra-complex expression of a basic mechanical costume watch, a leather-based strap is a wholly acceptable alternative for the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, and the straightforward but luxurious look of alligator leather-based helps to maintain the visible emphasis on the delicate but dynamic case and its extremely advanced show.
Though calling the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual a halo piece isn’t essentially correct, this mannequin simply ranks amongst Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most advanced and unique choices, and it’s due to this fact created as a small-batch restricted version of simply 20 examples. Moreover, given its stable gold case and a number of heavy-hitter problems, this mannequin is the only most costly new launch from the model for Watches & Wonders Geneva this 12 months, and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual ref. Q6202420 is accompanied by an official retail value of $438,000 USD. Whereas this similar amount of cash should purchase you a home in lots of elements of this nation, all the idea of the Duometre platform is to allow extremely advanced timepieces, and I personally hope that JLC continues to lean additional into this idea with more and more superior Duometre choices. For extra info on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, please go to the model’s web site.
