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Charisma is a tough factor to design for in watchmaking. A timepiece that falls flat in some colorways will be remodeled by one thing so simple as a brand new set of colours and supplies, and the distinction between an enthralling, unified entire and a discordant jumble can usually be exceedingly slender. The sporty, built-in Maurice Lacroix Aikon line is a powerful instance of this precept in motion. Its “best hits” method to built-in sports activities watch design can have a tough time standing out in a stacked subject of opponents, however when the model permits this design to step out of the shadow of its influences, this confluence of acquainted cues shines brightly. The brand new limited-edition Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automated Bronze is arguably as charismatic because it’s ever been with a heat, characterful mix of shade, materials, and (potential) patina that instantly units it aside from the pack.
Though it’s actually on the bigger facet for contemporary tendencies at 42mm broad, the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automated Bronze’s bronze case wears remarkably properly for a number of causes. Most clearly, there’s the built-in lug design — not solely are these lugs very quick, however additionally they function a pronounced, sharply angular downturn. Coupled with the formed, tapering built-in strap, this enables the case to wrap seamlessly round smaller wrists with out overhang. As well as, the balanced, manageable 11mm total case thickness helps the principle case physique to sit down low and broad on the wrist, additional decreasing perceived bulk on the wrist. However, Maurice Lacroix’s method to ending the Aikon Automated Bronze makes it considerably extra eye-catching than its stainless-steel counterparts. Not all bronze alloys are created equal, and the nice and cozy, shiny, barely orange-tinted bronze Maurice Lacroix makes use of right here offers off almost the identical hue and luster as a newly minted penny on the wrist. With that mentioned, a part of the attraction of bronze is its evolving, patinating nature, and the sharp sides, slender chamfers, and 6 raised, architectural bezel “claws” ought to present a mess of intriguing anchor factors for darker contrasting patina or pale verdigris because the watch naturally ages. Maurice Lacroix accentuates this potential for distinctive getting old by absolutely abandoning polished surfaces on this case – even historically polished components just like the even case facet chamfers and the sides of the broad, raised bezel are executed with crisp, deep linear brushing, together with the broader case surfaces. The one considerable areas of this case that aren’t brushed are the bezel “claws,” that are as an alternative matte-blasted. That’s to not say this case doesn’t have visible highlights on the wrist — the sharply angled case geometry ensures that at the very least one floor is catching the sunshine at almost any given perspective — however it does change the character of those highlights. It’s much less ornamental-feeling and extra purposeful, which fits bronze’s lengthy historical past of maritime use and historic associations with armor and weapons properly. The model tops the Aikon Automated Bronze with a sapphire show caseback and provides the watch a hefty 200-meter water resistance score. Though that is impressively sporty and may permit the Aikon Automated Bronze to carry out properly as an all-in-one “trip watch,” it additionally leads to one of many watch’s greatest potential missed alternatives — extra on that later.
With a heat, shiny case shade palette akin to contemporary bronze, the pure impulse is to go for a darker complement for the dial, and the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automated Bronze demonstrates simply how efficient that pairing will be. The dégradé dial floor is a deep, wealthy espresso brown across the dial edge, fading to a heat mild cocoa tone on the middle. It’s a mix that nearly appears to glow in exhausting, direct mild, and when paired with the clous de Paris dial texture and the delicate, underlying sunburst end, this can be a dial that may tackle a mess of personalities relying on lighting situations. Maurice Lacroix accentuates this dial floor with rose gold plated, absolutely polished baton indices, together with slender matching stick palms. This tone-on-tone look is impressively wealthy and characterful on the wrist, however the cohesive really feel of those colours all collectively makes the usual white date show at 3 o’clock really feel much more misplaced. A brown date wheel or a no-date structure would have elevated this design to a different stage, though the structure because it sits continues to be deeply engaging.
Maurice Lacroix powers the Aikon Automated Bronze with the Sellita-based ML 115 automated motion. Given its acquainted underpinnings, the ML 115’s total efficiency figures ought to really feel recognizable to most fanatics, together with a 28,800 bph beat fee and a slightly antiquated 38-hour energy reserve. However, the ML 115 is commendably properly adorned for this worth level, with choose blued screws, tight perlage for the bridges, and an impressively complicated customized rotor incorporating arabesque and linear brushing, matte-blasting, polished surfaces and anglage, and slender skeleton cutouts.
A lot of the persona of an built-in watch is tied up in its bracelet pairing, and it’s uncommon to see an built-in watch on a strap come throughout with extra persona than its bracelet-equipped stablemates. The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automated Bronze, nevertheless, is a type of uncommon built-in watches. The Aikon’s built-in bracelet design is, let’s consider, very acquainted to observe followers at giant due to its shut resemblance to the traditional Royal Oak bracelet, and by separating this watch design from its bracelet, it goes a good distance in the direction of establishing a definite persona for the Aikon line. To not point out, this watch on a full bronze bracelet would probably be each cumbersomely heavy and critically flashy on the wrist. As a substitute, Maurice Lacroix pairs the watch with a deeply spectacular built-in distressed leather-based strap. The tapering kind flows properly into the case design right here, and the mix of deep, variegated medium browns with off-white distinction stitching enhances the case and dial colorway handsomely. Not solely is that this a strap that appears and feels aged by years of adventures proper out of the field, however as time goes on, this worn, nuanced look ought to pair even higher with the case because it develops a patina. Whereas this pairing is engaging and fits the general design properly, the leather-based strap right here does have one main draw back: water resistance. The watch itself could also be able to 200 meters, however this strap can be ruined lengthy earlier than any prolonged diving takes place. There’s a quick-release system for this strap, however it presents an uncommon challenge. Because of the means the Aikon’s quick-release system is designed, when eliminated, the strap takes the central phase of the built-in lugs together with it. All of Maurice Lacroix’s obtainable elective straps are designed with the standard-production stainless-steel case in thoughts, so the one method to match the Aikon Automated Bronze with a water-friendly rubber strap or bracelet is to just accept a mismatched stainless-steel phase alongside the bronze case. It’s a small concern, however given the limited-run nature of this case in bronze, it’s one which’s unlikely to be addressed.
Making a watch really feel charismatic isn’t any easy job in design, however the suitable mixture of colours, supplies, and straps may give a watch design depths of character that the remainder of the product line can’t match. The restricted version Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automated Bronze is an excellent instance of this precept at work, with a heat, characterful feel and look that stands properly above the remainder of the Aikon line on the wrist. Solely 888 examples of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automated Bronze shall be made, and the watch is accessible now by way of licensed sellers. MSRP for this watch stands at $2,650 USD as of press time. For extra particulars, please go to the model’s web site.