A masterpiece of ingenuity and complexity, the GNS1 dazzled the watchmaking scene with its unbelievable free-moving practice travelling across the two central counters on the dial like a mechanical caterpillar. Marking the indie model’s debut in 2019, the GNS1 was ten years within the making and guarded by two patents. Earlier this yr, Genus launched the GNS2, a follow-up mannequin designed to simplify the show and lighten the case. Now fitted with a closed dial and two separate and shorter trains, the query is whether or not this train in fashion ends in a extra legible, streamlined and finally extra wearable watch.
The First GNS1
Genus Watches is a collaborative enterprise between entrepreneur Catherine Heny and watchmaker Sébastian Billières and was based in 2019. The primary opus to emerge from Genus, the GNS1, is a veritable mechanical extravaganza, counting on an ingenious mechanical practice/free-moving ingredient circling the 2 tens-of-minute counters within the centre of the dial to kind a determine eight. For extra correct readings, the practice is complemented by a rotating counter at 3 o’clock with single digits and an arrow. The hours are represented by satellite tv for pc markers positioned on the periphery that advance and pivot to face the wearer once they attain the fastened pointer at 9 o’clock.
One other function of the GNS 1 is its openworked dial, revealing a mind-bogglingly complicated panorama of mechanical {hardware} within the type of bridges, levers and wheels. Nevertheless, there was one drawback with the primary GNS fashions – even those with vibrant gems and the occasional Chinese language dragon snaking across the dial – and this was that they weren’t simple to learn.
The New Genus GNS2
Whereas the mechanical mind of the GNS2 is similar because the GNS1, these are two very completely different beasts. Now that includes a closed dial, the visible complexity of the GNS1 is tamed. As an alternative is an easier, extra serene and symmetrical symphony dominated by a central determine eight, a leitmotif at Genus.
As an alternative of the sprawling panorama of mechanical elements, the dial’s closed hand-hammered areas truly improve the viewing pleasure by highlighting the central determine eight, which homes the tens-of-minute discs that rotate in reverse instructions.
The 12-bodied caterpillar (genera) of the GNS1 has been shortened to 3 our bodies with metallic blue arrows on its again. It nonetheless performs its spectacular figure-eight procession across the counters, however one factor misplaced in translation is the separate single-digit counter for precise minute readings (the model insists that the main arrow within the procession signifies the precise minute, however it isn’t as exact). This additionally means that there’s much less motion on the dial, however that may be a good factor.
The rotating and pivoting hours have additionally been axed in favour of fastened indices on the dial. These are indicated by a second 3-bodied mechanical practice with blue arrows circulating across the peripheral observe.
Easier, extremely symmetrical and infinitely simpler to learn, the GNS2 additionally performs with textures, reliefs and light-weight. The 2 crescent-shaped areas embracing the central determine eight are adorned by hand with a beautiful, hammered texture (a bit like AP’s frosted gold). The utilized hour markers, the contours of the hammered crescents, and the spokes of the central counters are all polished, and the 4 screws are mirror-polished by hand to change into an integral a part of the surroundings.
Utilizing a sublime monochrome palette of greys, color is used sparingly. Blue is used for the origami-style arrows on the backs of the caterpillars, and black for the smaller discs internet hosting the tens of minutes in aid.
Streamlined Case
The Genus GNS2 shares the 43mm diameter of earlier editions and the big crown with raised GENUS letters, however its featherlight titanium case now options hollowed sandblasted flanks that visually lighten the load. Fitted with a specifically developed glass-box sapphire crystal with out edges to acquire an undistorted view of the peripheral hour practice and maximise the dial opening, the draw back is that the case peak is a whopping 18.8mm.
New Calibre 260Rh-2
Whereas the GNS2 depends on the identical mechanical mind because the GNS1, it’s now not uncovered on the dial and the view from the caseback reveals some aesthetic tweaks. The motion is split into two components: one half is devoted to vitality and transmission, and the second to vitality distribution and regulation. The brand new calibre continues to be geared up with only one barrel with a formidable 50-hour energy reserve – given the complexity of the calibre and the transferring plenty – and every part of the motion has been designed by Billières and adorned by hand, with a bit assist from his sister, Sarah. The regulating organ now stands out with its blue surfaces, and you’ll admire the intricately snailed ratchet wheel and the mirror-polished finishings.
Ideas
In reply to our preliminary query, we now have to conclude that the “much less is extra” technique utilized to the Genus GNS2 is a winner. With its closed dial and tight symmetry, the legibility has elevated exponentially. Though the case is extra streamlined because of the hollowed flanks, the towering sapphire crystal may want getting used to in on a regular basis conditions to keep away from blows. It’s nonetheless a devilishly difficult beast, however hiding a few of the watchmaking wizardry ends in a extra versatile and modern timepiece.
The GNS2 is a restricted version of 18 items and retails for CHF 58,200 / EUR 61,360 (all costs excluding taxes). For extra info, please seek the advice of genuswatches.swiss.
