Whereas there may be definitely an argument to be made that a number of the watch trade’s proprietary gold alloys are little greater than materials-based advertising and marketing gimmicks, it’s additionally plain that a number of the extra modern choices supply actually distinctive properties, and an ideal instance of that is the brand new 18k “sand gold” alloy from Audemars Piguet. Final month, the well-known Swiss luxurious producer debuted this novel alloy within the lately introduced Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked, and I had the chance to take a look at this new mannequin at AP Home Los Angeles, which is the model’s Hollywood lounge and penthouse retail house.
You’ll find our unique information story concerning the Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in sand gold (ref. 26735SG.OO.1320SG.01) proper right here, and since this mannequin already existed in chrome steel, the brand new 18k sand gold alloy is the actual headline of this launch, with this launch representing the primary time that this materials has appeared throughout the model’s catalog. With that in thoughts, we’re nonetheless speaking a couple of skeletonized flying tourbillon in strong gold from one of many world’s premier luxurious producers, so the watch itself is correctly spectacular, each when it comes to its visible presence and bodily weight, as each its case and bracelet are crafted totally from the model’s new 18k sand gold alloy.
Regarding the watch itself, the brand new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked is actually the sand gold model of the chrome steel mannequin that debuted in 2022 for the Royal Oak’s fiftieth anniversary. Consequently, you get the Royal Oak assortment’s instantly-recognizable octagonal case in a 41mm format that measures 10.6mm thick, together with a signed crown at 2 o’clock, flat anti-reflective sapphire crystals fitted to each the dial facet of the watch and its show caseback, plus 50 meters of water resistance to guard in opposition to each day moisture contact. Equally, hooked up to the case is the Royal Oak’s signature built-in bracelet (additionally crafted totally from sand gold), and the varied parts are completed with the gathering’s regular number of coarse brushed surfaces and high-polished bevels.
At its core, the brand new sand gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked may be very a lot nonetheless a Royal Oak, and its angular case and built-in bracelet supply an look that’s immediately recognizable from throughout the room. Though the watch itself is extremely spectacular and well-executed, the Royal Oak is such a well-recognized design that it’s exhausting for me to personally get enthusiastic about new fashions, even when they’re actually lovely and excellent creations. That stated, I nonetheless all the time geek out when manufacturers introduce new supplies, and Audemars Piguet’s sand gold alloy affords an look that’s tangibly totally different from any of the opposite varieties of gold at the moment discovered throughout the model’s trendy catalog.
Named after the looks of sand dunes within the desert daylight, the general coloration of sand gold is noticeably colder and fewer pink in comparison with the usual rose gold that may be discovered elsewhere throughout the Royal Oak assortment. The nice and cozy but muted hue of the metallic sits someplace between white and rose gold with a singular coloration that gives a distinct look relying on the lighting. Moderately than simply being a lighter shade of pink, Audemars Piguet’s sand gold alloy really seems darker than regular rose gold, and it affords an uncommon but restrained coloration that would greatest be described as a metallic shade of taupe.
Just like the overwhelming majority of different varieties of gold used all through the watch trade, Audemars Piguet’s sand gold is an 18k alloy, which signifies that 75% of the fabric consists of pure gold. In its elemental kind, pure gold (24k) is simply too comfortable for use for watch instances or jewellery, and so the opposite 25% of an 18k gold alloy consists of different metals that improve its energy and sturdiness. With that in thoughts, the colour of those gold alloys might be influenced by the opposite metals that account for the remaining 25% of their composition, and conventional rose gold is produced by mixing in copper and silver, together with small quantities of different components to assist fine-tune its coloration and enhance longevity.
To attain the distinctive look of sand gold, Audemars Piguet makes use of much less copper than what’s required for conventional rose gold, though it additionally swaps out the silver for a considerably increased share of palladium, and the ensuing alloy has an look that’s each darker and colder than normal 18k rose gold, whereas concurrently benefiting from an extremely lustrous high quality. Personally, I don’t discover Audemars Piguet’s new sand gold alloy to be fairly as elegant or lovely compared on to conventional yellow or rose gold. Nonetheless, I additionally discovered the nice and cozy but darkish look of the metallic to be fairly fascinating, and it instantly stands out whenever you see it subsequent to an everyday rose gold watch.
Absolutely seen by means of each the open-worked dial and show caseback of the sand gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked is the model’s manufacture 2972 computerized motion, which runs at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) with an influence reserve of roughly 65 hours. Though this is similar motion that may be discovered contained in the chrome steel model of the mannequin, its plates and bridges have been up to date to characteristic a sand gold galvanic therapy that matches its case. The remainder of the motion’s parts, together with its skeletonized 22k pink gold rotor, are rhodium-plated to spotlight the intricate mechanics of the watch, and this works along with the architectural symmetry of the Cal. 2972 to create a extremely cohesive general aesthetic.
The Royal Oak’s angular case and built-in bracelet supply a big quantity of actual property to showcase Audemars Piguet’s new sand gold alloy, and simply as you’d anticipate from a six-figure watch made by one of many world’s most prestigious luxurious producers, all the pieces concerning the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked is executed to impossibly excessive requirements. Whereas this similar mannequin would seemingly be equally spectacular had it been crafted from every other shade of gold, sand gold merely seems totally different from anything at the moment accessible in Audemars Piguet’s trendy lineup, and it serves as the right different for many who benefit from the heat hues of rose gold however need one thing a bit extra understated that what you get from a standard pink gold watch.
Nobody buys a skeletonized flying tourbillon on a strong gold bracelet with the intention of subtlety, and for many who actually wish to stand out, the brand new sand gold Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked represents a really compelling choice (supplied that you could afford its six-figure price ticket). With an official retail value of 250,000 CHF, which equals roughly $276,000 USD (on the time of writing), the brand new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked ref. 26735SG.OO.1320SG.01 prices roughly the identical value as a rental or supercar; nevertheless, even amongst a sea of treasured metallic Audemars Piguet watches, the distinctive coloration of sand gold instantly stands out. Now, the large query that is still for potential patrons is whether or not or not they really desire the nice and cozy and muted look of sand gold over any of the opposite shades of gold which are accessible throughout the trade, though it’s plain that the novel alloy affords a noticeably totally different look than units this mannequin aside from the remainder of the band’s catalog. For extra data on the Sand Gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked, please go to the model’s web site.