Final November, Morgan and I visited the comfortable Holthinrichs atelier on certainly one of Delft’s picturesque canals. There, we had the possibility to go hands-on with the model’s new Deconstructed fashions and discuss to the founder, Michiel Holthinrichs. We bought to know the model a bit of higher and bought a great have a look at these spectacular watches. However Michiel additionally confirmed us some sketches of latest concepts he was engaged on. On the time, he couldn’t inform us an excessive amount of about them. Nevertheless, immediately, Holthinrichs is proudly introducing the brand new Signature Decoration and the restricted Signature Lab Sequence.
The primary factor that caught with me from the primary sketches was the sleek and curvy lug design. It was one thing that I had by no means seen earlier than on a watch. Nevertheless, again then, Michiel additionally advised us that the development was fairly fragile and there have been nonetheless some points to resolve earlier than it might go into manufacturing. Now, although, it looks as if Holthinrichs has mounted these points and is able to lastly launch the brand new watches. Be a part of me in taking a better have a look at the brand new Holthinrichs Signature Decoration and the restricted Signature Lab Sequence.
The Holthinrichs Signature Decoration
I’ll begin with the regular-production mannequin, the Signature Decoration. Apart from the manufacturing, although, I’m unsure what’s so “common” about it. The 38.5mm case is fabricated from Grade 5 titanium with contrasting uncooked and brushed finishes, together with on the signed crown at 3 o’clock. Each the bezel and the case band have a concave form. The double-domed sapphire crystal up prime accounts for 2mm of the watch’s 9.85mm thickness. However all these options play a supporting function to the true stars of the present, that are the attractive, flowing lugs.
An architect by commerce, Michiel says he bought his inspiration from Artwork Nouveau structure and traditional automobile fenders. The lugs originate from the underside of the case after which observe its form whereas gracefully holding onto the strap. They span 46mm lengthy from tip to tip and now have a mixture of uncooked and brushed finishes that match the case. Via the sapphire window on the case again, you’ll be able to see the in-house-modified Sellita SW300-1 with its bespoke rotor. It contains a tungsten weight, and the 18K gold plating properly finishes off the Artwork Nouveau “sweep and dawn” design.
Sparkly dials or a ceramic Delft Blue model
The Holthinrichs Signature Decoration comes with 5 dial choices. 4 of them share the identical sparkly impact as they had been made out of a frosted piece of metallic. When it comes to “colours,” you’ll be able to select between 14K yellow gold, 18K rose gold, or white or black rhodium. On prime of that first layer, you’ll discover one other double-domed sapphire crystal, which bears a printed Holthinrichs brand and all of the minute markers. Lastly, there’s a stable metallic ring with 12 enamel that function hour markers. I haven’t seen this spectacle in particular person but, however I can think about it should create a unbelievable sense of depth.
Aside from the sparkly dials, you can too select to go for a Delft Blue version. This dial design displays the longstanding pottery custom of the town of Delft, dwelling to the Holthinrichs atelier. This time, the bottom of the dial is white ceramic whereas the printed brand and Breguet numerals are blue, similar to the normal pottery from Delft. This mannequin additionally options the skeletonized palms from the sparkly variations, however this time, they’re blued, after all. The “common” Holthinrichs Signature Decoration with a frosted dial prices €3,500, and the Delft Blue Version will set you again €3,750 (each excluding VAT).
The Holthinrichs Signature Lab Sequence
Whereas the lugs on the Signature Decoration are already distinctive, simply wait till you see those on the much more advanced Signature Lab Sequence. This watch has the identical dimensions and is made out of the identical light-weight titanium because the Signature Decoration. Nevertheless, this time, the case is 3D printed and manually completed as an alternative of CNC machined. However above all, the flowing lugs at the moment are additionally skeletonized to make them look much more sleek. I can solely think about how difficult it’s to supply one thing like this and make sure the lugs are sturdy sufficient to maintain the watch on one’s wrist.
For the dial, Holthinrichs went again to its “Horlogerie Brut” idea, which entails creating sturdy colours utilizing galvanic plating, anodization, or pure patina. This idea takes benefit of the textures and colours from the pure properties of the supplies. The dial of the Signature Lab Sequence is handmade out of a stable piece of copper and carved with a sunburst sample. Holthinrichs then applies a patina to it, leading to a novel spectacle because of the pure oxidation course of.
Additionally, the rotor on the identical Sellita SW300 motion has acquired a layer of patina by way of an in-house-developed acid warmth therapy. Even the tungsten weight on the rim is scraped and thermally handled, giving it a blue and purple hue. The Holthinrichs Signature Lab Sequence is proscribed to 30 items, and the worth continues to be to be introduced.
Ultimate ideas
Though I appreciated how totally different the Holthinrichs Deconstructed was from different watches, I by no means felt notably drawn to it. However these new Signature watches with their curvy and chic lug design are proper up my alley. They really feel a bit of dressier than what Michiel has made earlier than, and I can’t wait to attempt them out on my wrist. I additionally love the dial building on the Signature Decoration with a sapphire crystal in between the primary dial and the indexes.
We’ll keep in contact with the model to see after we can go to once more to look at the manufacturing fashions. Till then, for those who’d prefer to know extra, take a look at the official Holthinrichs web site.
What do you consider the brand new Holthinrichs Signature Decoration and the Signature Lab Sequence? Let me know within the feedback beneath.
