Alright, I am going to lower to the chase. Vacheron Constantin now has a Historiques 222 in metal. It has the identical nice dimensions (37mm by 7.95mm), the identical motion, and the identical classic touches, now in additional informal and reasonably priced stainless-steel, for $32,000. And sure, it’s superior.
It’s a giant yr for anniversaries within the watch world. From model anniversaries to iconic fashions, there can be numerous celebrations, however none have the longevity of Vacheron Constantin’s 270 years. Certain, there can be events and fanfare later, however proper now, Vacheron determined to skip all of it and drop a fairly sizzling launch that watch nerds have been asking for and do it with solely a press launch. The “Jumbo” 222 (the progenitor of the Abroad) is lastly right here in metal.
Vacheron gave me an opportunity to spend just a little over a day with the watch late final yr, so not solely do I’ve a ton of images, however I’ve numerous ideas. There are some things that Vacheron followers have been asking for (a matte dial, Twin Time Abroad might be my greatest different request), and never solely was a metal 222 excessive on the checklist, but it surely’s undoubtedly a house run for Vacheron.
Launched for Vacheron’s 222nd anniversary in 1977, the unique Jorg Hysek-designed 222 was a departure from any design language Vacheron had earlier than. It was the final of the “Holy Trinity” built-in releases and the one one that did not discover a continuous place within the model’s catalog. So when Vacheron introduced the Historiques 222 in yellow gold in 2022, it shocked nobody within the trade. It was the forty fifth anniversary of the mannequin – form of an arbitrary anniversary however spherical sufficient to justify a launch – and the trade was in the correct spot for a vintage-inspired re-release. However as excited as watch lovers had been then, they virtually instantly requested for the watch in metal.
I requested of us at Vacheron about an eventual metal launch a yr later and acquired a story about “seven-year product cycles” and the way the model did not anticipate such excessive demand for the 222, in order that they did not have a 222 in metal within the pipeline. It could be coming, or that was implied, however no time quickly. Nicely, we did not have to attend that lengthy.
One key factor that makes the “Jumbo” 222 nice is the extra-thin motion that imparts an general extra-thin form. At 37mm by 7.95mm (thicker than the 7.2mm authentic from 1977), the steadiness is a bit completely different than the “Jumbo” Royal Oak (39mm by 8.1mm) or the Nautilus 5711 (40mm by 8.6mm). However regardless of the actual fact all three trendy variations (largely) match their classic measurements, the width of the Historiques 222 feels extra classic than the remainder.
Most manufacturers would not have 36 or 37mm instances as their flagship mannequin in a contemporary lineup, however that simply makes the 222 stand out extra. There are just a few modifications from the unique (as we noticed with the yellow-gold Historiques 222), just like the butterfly deployant clasp on the built-in bracelet and the show caseback.
That extra-thin measurement is tremendous snug on the wrist. Clearly, it weighs lower than the yellow gold 222, however when you’re extra of a white steel or, extra particularly, metal watch-wearer (which I’m), this feels a lot better each bodily and psychologically. The case has 50m of water resistance, so when you’re on the lookout for one thing a bit extra absolutely sporty, you will nonetheless need an Abroad. That is extra concerning the “vibe” and the expertise of carrying the watch.
Different small touches make the watch fairly indistinguishable from a classic mannequin. It is a bit extra punchy with a model new matte blue dial, and sharp, with no indicators of the scratches or sprucing which can be par for the course with any classic watch. The fluted bezel makes it stand out from different manufacturers’ different “Jumbo” choices. The date window is not color-matched (one thing I am going to dig into in a future article), and the decrease proper lug has Vacheron’s Maltese cross emblem in gold.
The motion is viewable via the show caseback – for the umpteenth time, just like the yellow gold model – with the identical motion from 2022. The Hallmark of Geneva licensed motion, the Vacheron caliber 2455/2, is the evolution of the 2455 launched again in 2007. That is a bit lengthy within the tooth, to be sincere. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour – in contrast with 2.75 Hz on the unique mannequin – and has 40 hours of energy reserve, none of which is essentially the most outstanding, however the 26.2mm by 3.6mm motion is the perfect (automated) alternative for Vacheron to make an extra-thin watch.
Within the subsequent few days, we’ll have a extra in-depth Fingers-On with the brand new Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222, in addition to a comparability to the unique reissue in yellow gold. Till then, you’ll be able to head to Vacheron Constantin’s web site for extra data.
The Fundamentals
Model: Vacheron ConstantinModel: Historiques 222Reference Quantity: 4200H/222A-B934
Diameter: 37mmThickness: 7.95mmCase Materials: Stainless steelDial Shade: BlueIndexes: White gold hour markers and palms highlightedLume: Tremendous-LumiNovaWater Resistance: 50mStrap/Bracelet: Built-in stainless-steel
The Motion
Caliber: Caliber 2455/2Functions: Hours, minutes, dateDiameter: 26.2mmThickness: 3.6mmPower Reserve: 40 hours of energy reserveWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 28,800 vibrations per hourJewels: 27Chronometer Licensed: NoAdditional Particulars: Hallmark of Geneva licensed timepiece
Pricing & Availability
Worth: $32,000Availability: ImmediatelyLimited Version: No, however unique to Vacheron Constantin boutiques.
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