This week, there gained’t be an everyday High 5 listing. As an alternative, I had an opportunity to select my 5 favorites from Watches and Wonders 2024 as a part of our present Fratello Favorites sequence. Funnily sufficient, most of my picks are variations of current fashions. Is it proof that Watches and Wonders wasn’t too thrilling? I might say it certain is a mirrored image of that. Then once more, it’s nonetheless an inventory of watches that I used to be excited to see. So whereas there weren’t as many items with the “wow issue” at this yr’s Watches and Wonders, these 5 picks stood out for me.
Sitting right here interested by the watches that impressed me final yr, I can provide you with an inventory of favorites that stand out greater than this yr’s releases. Among the watches that instantly come to thoughts are the duo of yellow gold and two-tone Rolex GMT-Grasp IIs, the titanium Yacht-Grasp, the Cartier Privé Tank Normale in platinum, and the Alpine Eagle XPS with the salmon dial. The yr earlier than that, the gold Vacheron Constantin 222, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Tudor Black Bay Professional, and A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in titanium have been good highlights. This yr, I needed to suppose more durable to create an inventory. Whereas these watches won’t be as instantly spectacular, I discover all of them fascinating and would love an opportunity to test them out up shut for some time. So, let’s bounce into my picks for this yr.
Watches and Wonders 2024 favourite #1: Cartier Santos Medium brown dial
My first choose is a Cartier that I might choose as my every day watch. I like a number of of the model’s releases from this yr and former ones. A few of them are gorgeous. Most of them have been a part of the unique Privé Assortment of restricted editions. Nonetheless, Cartier added a really good common Santos with a brown dial to the lineup this yr.
As a few of you would possibly know, I wrote an article stating that 2024 would possibly turn into the yr of the brown dial. Whereas which may not occur in any case, it’s good that Cartier shocked us with a brown-dial Santos.
To be extra exact, the model launched a Medium and a Giant model. I might choose the previous because it forgoes the date aperture at 6 o’clock and provides a really clear structure. As well as, the Medium model of the Santos on the bracelet has sufficient visible presence to not look too small on my wrist.
The watch has a 35.1 × 41.9mm stainless-steel case that’s 8.83mm thick and waterproof to 10 ATM. Cartier equips the watch with its self-winding caliber 1847 MC with 42 hours of energy reserve. All in all, that is concerning the new brown sunburst dial. It really works tremendous nicely and offers this €7,700 Santos a brilliant elegant look that I like.
Favourite #2: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
Not too way back, I wrote a High 5 article about some nice pre-owned picks, and it featured a basic Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse. As I defined, I like that the Golden Ellipse is an imposing model assertion. The watch has remained part of Patek Philippe’s assortment since its debut in 1968.
Its design relies on the golden ratio, and it has turn into a veritable trade icon. Whereas we frequently see the Golden Ellipse on elegant leather-based straps, nothing beats the watch on a gold chain-link bracelet. That’s the way it turns into a very fashionable timepiece that resembles the right mixture of a watch and a bracelet.
This yr, Patek Philippe launched a brand new rose gold model of the watch on a brand-new bracelet. The brand new Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/1R-001 has a 34.5 × 39.5mm case that’s solely 5.9mm thick. This rose gold case is paired with an ebony-black sunburst dial with rose gold hour markers and fingers. Powering the watch is the model’s ultra-thin computerized caliber 240, which measures simply 2.53mm thick. It operates at a 21,600vph frequency and has 48 hours of energy reserve.
It’s all concerning the bracelet creating a real model assertion
The case is fitted with a newly developed bracelet that appears gorgeous. This bracelet is a real murals that, in keeping with Patek Philippe, was 15 years within the making. It was created with CNC machines however completed and assembled by hand with significantly spectacular outcomes. It’s constructed of 363 elements, together with greater than 300 hyperlinks. Moreover, it comes with a fantastic clasp that includes a sample within the bracelet’s model and Patek’s Calatrava cross.
The folding clasp is one other detailed aspect that appears superb in all its practical glory. At rather less than €60,000, the Golden Ellipse 5378/1R-001 is a superb addition to the Patek Philippe lineup. Certain, it’s not an all-new watch, however the mixture of the watch with this new bracelet is actually particular. Visually, it’s a feast for the eyes, and the extent of element and craftsmanship that went into creating this bracelet makes this the one Patek launch for me this yr.
Watches and Wonders 2024 favourite #3: Tudor Black Bay
Final Sunday, I defined what makes this new Tudor Black Bay such an excellent launch for me in our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown sequence. I like that Tudor created a clear model of its 41mm Grasp Chronometer Black Bay that doesn’t have the vintage-inspired look of final yr’s burgundy model.
Because the Sunday Morning Showdown article defined, I beloved the burgundy model and had an opportunity to go hands-on with it. The principle difficulty I had with it was its aesthetic. I like this yr’s clear, fashionable look so much higher than the retro vibes that outlined final yr’s mannequin.
That’s why that is the primary black-dial Black Bay that’s actually an reasonably priced various to the Submariner in my e-book. Certain, you possibly can debate Rolex versus Tudor concerning high quality and notion and why you should purchase one or the opposite. The solutions to which might be very private. However what Tudor did with this new Black Bay visually is true up many watch followers’ alleys.
As a reminder, the watch provides a 41mm case that’s 13.6mm thick and 50mm lengthy with a 21mm lug spacing and a 200m depth score. Contained in the case is the Kenissi-manufactured MT5602-U, a METAS-certified Grasp Chronometer caliber with a 70-hour energy reserve. The brand new Black Bay is difficult to beat at €4,510 on the Oyster-style bracelet or €4,620 on the Jubilee-style bracelet. It makes this comparatively easy line extension among the best of this yr’s truthful.
Favourite #4: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
Now we go from a comparatively simple launch to some of the sophisticated of this yr’s truthful. As a few of you realize, A. Lange & Söhne is my favourite high-end model, and it by no means ceases to mesmerize me. Final yr, I fell for the Odysseus Chronograph and the titanium Odysseus a yr earlier than that.
This yr, the model launched us to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen.” I had the pleasure of writing the introduction article. It’s all the time good to be launched to a sophisticated timepiece because it forces you to take a seat down and give attention to all the things that makes it particular. And with A. Lange & Söhne, that’s all the time a deal with.
To rejoice 25 years of the Datograph, the Glashütte-based model launched this particular model of its well-known chronograph. It brings a Honeygold case that’s 41.5mm in diameter and 14.6mm thick. Contemplating that this watch combines a number of issues, it is vitally wearable. The watch includes a flyback chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon.
On high of that, it boasts the model’s well-known “Lumen” execution. This interprets to a dial made from semitransparent sapphire crystal and a luminous coating on the completely different shows and capabilities. This ensures you should use the watch and all its capabilities throughout the day and the evening.
The magic continues on the again of the watch
The brand new manufacture caliber L952.4 is chargeable for all of the mechanical wizardry. This column-wheel chronograph caliber consists of 684 elements, operates at 18,000vph, and has an influence reserve of fifty hours. It’s seen by way of the show case again. The seen one-minute tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism is a part of the magic on the bottom.
The motion is a real murals completed in nice Lange trend. This Honeygold Datograph additionally comes on a superbly matched brown alligator strap. Lange will solely promote 50 models of this new masterpiece. Formally, the value is out there on request solely, however RJ heard it was round €620,000. Sure, that’s an unbelievable sum of money, however what you get in return is nothing wanting gorgeous.
Watches and Wonders 2024 favourite #5: Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus
My final choose for this listing of 5 Watches and Wonders favorites is the duo of Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus watches. Technically, they have been unveiled two weeks earlier than Watches and Wonders. However for a lot of, the Geneva truthful was the primary alternative to see the watches within the metallic. For me, the 2 Mount Erebus fashions present that the Czapek Antarctique seems to be sensible not solely in stainless-steel but in addition in yellow and rose gold.
Whereas that’s hardly shocking with the proof proper in entrance of us, it’s good to know that the brilliance of the design is ideal for valuable metals. Czapek will produce 100 items of the rose gold mannequin and 50 of the yellow gold mannequin. If I had the prospect to get one, I might choose the latter.
Each watches have a case measuring 40.5mm in diameter, 10.6mm thick, and 45mm from lug to lug. The case is paired with a brilliantly built-in bracelet with that distinct Antarctique model. You possibly can go for polished or brushed intermediate hyperlinks. On this case, I might select the polished variations as they appear nice when alternating with the brushed hyperlinks. The case and bracelet are mixed with a really good deep blue dial with a extremely textured lamé end.
The final word proof of idea
The dial options utilized gold luminous indexes, gold fingers, and a date window at 6 o’clock. Contained in the case, one can find the much-praised 28-jewel SXH5 caliber, which operates at 28,800vph and provides a 60-hour energy reserve.
At €56,700 in yellow gold and €55,000 in rose gold, these two watches are the right precious-metal proof of the Antarctique’s sensible idea. Whereas it’s hardly shocking, the affirmation is sweet, and it provides one other chapter to the story of why I like the Czapek Antarctique.
What do you consider my favourite Watches and Wonders releases this yr, and what have been yours? Let me know within the feedback beneath.
