Right me if I’m flawed (I’m not), however I bear in mind a time when a newly resurrected Angelus had barely-there motion structure that pared down the mechanics of a timepiece to its necessities and left the remainder suspended in colourful bridges, delivering the last word skeletonized watch. Bear in mind these? They had been superior, and skeletonization appeared to be the DNA of the model, for some time. Then, in 2022, the model launched the solid-dial Chronodate — not a skeletonized part to be seen! Think about my shock when Angelus collaborated with Massena Lab for a physician’s watch. Properly, right here we’re, and I suppose that is the pure development. For Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, the model appears to be totally committing to hiding the motion from us and has launched the Angelus Instrument Vitesse, a central-second monopusher chronograph provided in two dials that builds off its collab with Massena Lab.
The brand new Angelus Instrument de Vitesse has an exceedingly easy case. The 39mm case is available in at simply 9.27mm thick, which means it is going to put on virtually completely on virtually any wrist. It’s principally polished however has brushed sides to interrupt issues up a bit. It comes with a domed sapphire crystal with AR coating and is water-resistant to simply 30 meters. Of word, in fact, is the crown-integrated monopusher for the chronograph. Whereas the Massena Physician’s Watch collab had a separate pusher positioned at 2, there’s clearly been some motion tinkering to reposition it at 3 o’clock with the crown. It’s a cleaner look, for positive, and one which appears to be extra spectacular to individuals. The watches are paired with leather-based straps with pin buckle closures, brown calfskin for the black dial, and blue nubuck for the white dial.
Two dial choices can be found: an ivory white and what the model redundantly calls ebony black. (I’d argue “ivory” isn’t redundant as a result of ivory just isn’t a pure white.) Each dials characteristic Base 1000 tachymeter scale across the periphery, printed in blue and orange on the ivory dial and in caramel and pink on the ebony dial. Simply inside that scale is a conventional 60-second scale. To mark out the time, the dials have utilized Arabic numerals stuffed with Tremendous-LumiNova that seem to shine fairly properly. They’re matched by syringe fingers displaying the hours and minutes. There’s no operating second show, however as a substitute, the centrally mounted seconds hand serves as the only real chronograph indicator. That implies that for these really fascinated with utilizing this to time issues, you’ll be restricted to one-minute occasions (or remembering what number of instances it’s gone ’spherical). As somebody who doesn’t use the chronographs he does personal, I don’t have a difficulty with this limitation, particularly contemplating the classic vibes right here. That stated, different, fashionable central seconds chronographs that scratch this practical itch and ship way more, maybe most just lately the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Central Counter.
The motion behind the brand new Instrument de Vitesse (which means Velocity Instrument, should you had been questioning), is the Angelus A5000. The handbook winding monopusher chronograph delivers 42 hours of energy at 21,600 vph. The actual story right here lies within the motion’s historical past. First, know that Angelus is owned by La Joux-Perrex and subsequently by Citizen Group. The A5000 is constructed by LJP, however is an evolution of a caliber with fairly the pedigree: the THA 045MC. The 045MC was designed by Francois-Paul Journe and Denis Flageollet in a three way partnership referred to as Methods Horlogères Appliquées, and earlier than both of them had launched their now famend manufacturers (F.P. Journe and de Bethune, respectively). That motion was first used within the Cartier CPCP Monopuissor. That backstory often is the most spectacular factor about this whole watch.
Maybe this isn’t the nail within the coffin I believe it’s for Angelus’ thrilling designs, however trying on the model’s catalog, there’s only one watch with a skeletonized tourbillon motion. It’s the one watch within the catalog that’s skeletonized or that has a tourbillon — please ship a physician to examine on our good mates at Angelus to ensure nothing’s occurred to them. The factor concerning the U20 and different extra daring Angelus fashions was that you can see and really feel the worth not simply within the motion and supplies, however within the design itself. Right here, whereas there’s loads of classic allure, it’s arduous to know what I’d be paying for past the motion. The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse is priced at CHF 17,100 (incl. VAT) and restricted to 25 items in every colorway. For extra info, please go to the Angelus web site.
