This yr’s Geneva Watch Days was maybe the most well liked version so far, each in precise daytime temperatures and in watches. With the thermometer hitting 30° Celius just about all the week, we have been impressed by the quantity of genuinely progressive and artistic watchmaking on show. From a skeletonized ultra-thin model of the Speake Marin Ripples to a slew of extremely advanced chiming watches by Bulgari, there was quite a bit to like. We even noticed one of many oldest names within the trade, Favre Leuba (initially based in 1737) stage a grand return! However what acquired the MONOCHROME Editorial Workforce probably the most excited? Nicely, you’ll discover out in a bit, as we current our high picks from all of this yr’s novelties offered in the course of the Geneva Watch Days 2024.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
We simply have to say this one, and there was no debate inside MONOCHROME’s editorial crew in any way. What Konstantin Chaykin has finished together with his new ThinKing, now the world’s thinnest mechanical watch at simply 1.65mm, is solely put excellent. With it, he has bested the developmental (and budgetary) power of Piaget, Bulgari and Richard Mille. The intelligent building does have one shortcoming, which is the very fact the time can’t be set by itself. The answer? The micro-rotor-driven PalanKing provider case, which makes the ThinKing a guide/automated hybrid! Completely sensible! As this can be a prototype, no worth is understood but.
For extra info on Konstantin Chaykin and ThinKing, please consult with our preliminary article right here.
M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S
The ‘S’ in M.A.D. Editions’ new M.A.D.1S stands for 3 issues; Slimmer, Single Cylinder and Swiss Made. It’s mainly an evolution of the ultra-cool unique M.A.D.1 made attainable because of La Joux-Perret’s newest G100 automated motion. Nonetheless raffled off within the fairest approach conceivable, the M.A.D.1S is available in two variations. The one in purple is for the Mates and Tribe members of the model, with the ice blue one being the publically out there version. The brand new design makes it sleeker than ever earlier than, and a good higher match on the wrist. And on high of all that, should you’re a fortunate winner it is going to set you again the identical CHF 2,900 (earlier than taxes)! What’s to not like?
For extra particulars concerning the M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S, try our introduction story right here.
Armin Strom Twin Time GMT Resonance First Version
In honour of the fifteenth anniversary of the model’s manufacture, Armin Strom offered the spectacular Twin Time GMT Resonance First Version. As one of many few manufacturers to grasp the resonance phenomenon for the appliance of a wristwatch, the model takes one other huge step by pairing it with a travel-ready complication like this. The First Version splits time between two dials, independently set by means of two separate crowns. Each have a sky-blue grenage end and include day/night time indicators. The motion is regulated by two stability wheels, linked by the resonance clutch spring to stability out irregularities between the 2. It’s additionally price mentioning it’s probably the most compact resonance watch so far, at 39mm in diameter. It’s restricted to 25 items, is available in white gold solely, and prices EUR 133,300.
For extra on the very technical Armin Strom GMT Resonance First Version, please head over to our earlier article.
Laurent Ferrier Traditional Auto Sandstone
For Geneva Watch Days, Laurent Ferrier has opted to mix its refined codes of the Traditional/Galet with the robustness of its sports activities watches and provides it a delicious new dial color. The result’s the Traditional Auto Sandstone, a fully mesmerizing watch with tons of element to be found. It begins with the elegantly formed 40mm stainless-steel case, fitted with a lightweight copper-toned dial. The standout component is the date window, or quite the way in which it’s built-in into the dial. Across the again, the visible feast continues with an unobstructed view of the Calibre LF270.01 and its platinum micro-rotor. As a part of the Serie Atelier assortment, all 20 items will likely be solely offered on-line for a worth of CHF 50,000.
For all the main points on the attractive Laurent Ferrier Traditional Auto Sandstone, please see right here.
De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite
Fueled by the boundless ardour for blacksmithing and watchmaking of Denis Flageollet, De Bethune launched two new watches, of which we fell for the DB28XS Aérolite. It combines a number of key parts in a single watch, such because the ultra-thin case building, the signature floating lugs, the impeccably completed motion and so forth. However the star of the present is the dial, which is a slice of the Muonionalusta meteorite, adorned with a random guilloché sample and thermally oxidized end. It’d sound like a bit a lot, however the finish result’s insanely spectacular and surprisingly coherent! Restricted by annual manufacturing, the DB28XS Aérolite will set you again USD 120,000.
For extra on the De Bethune DB28XS Meteorite, a hands-on article will observe quickly.
Daniel Roth Tourbillon
Thought-about to be one of the crucial influential impartial watchmakers, it’s thrilling to see the identify of Daniel Roth again in full swing once more. Whereas the yellow-gold relaunch Tourbillon was strictly restricted to twenty items, it now returns in rose gold as a barely much less restricted run of fifty items per yr. It has retained the enduring Double-Ellipse case fitted with a motion based mostly on the Tourbillon C187. This new iteration has black printed Roman numerals and blackened palms on the offset dial, versus the extra frequent blue. The most important distinction, nevertheless, is the change of sample surrounding the dial, from hobnail to linear guilloché. At CHF 155,000 it’s removed from inexpensive, however it’s one of the crucial spectacular watches lately, interval!
For all the main points on the beautiful Daniel Roth Tourbillon, we invite you to learn our in-depth story right here.
Lederer Observatoire Chronometry
The origins of watchmaking come right down to the hunt for probably the most exact timekeeping devices, important within the early days of navigation and exploration. Bernhard Lederer has determined to place its stupendous CIC by means of rigorous analysis from three main observatories, in Glashütte, Besancon and Geneva. Adopting a brand new dial design in stable silver, with the geographical places of the three observatories within the small seconds subdial. The minute hand, fitted with a really small pointer, follows the rhythm of the remontoir in 6 steps of 10 seconds every. Across the again, the beautiful mechanical motion that powers all of it will be seen from a number of angles, because of the bowl-shaped sapphire crystal. Solely 8 will likely be made, at a worth of CHF 146,000 excluding VAT.
For extra on this new Lederer Observatoire Chronometry, we’ll observe up with a correct hands-on article quickly.
H. Moser & Cie x Studio Underd0g Ardour Fruit
Collaborations are a typical apply in watchmaking these days, however the one between H. Moser & Cie and Studio Underd0g is a quite fruity one, actually. It kind of bridges the hole between Moser’s high-end Endeavour Perpetual Calendar and Studio Underd0g’s extra budget-friendly manually wound chronograph with a ardour fruit-inspired color theme. And I say “kind of” intentionally, as a result of they’re solely offered as a set. However, it’s a cool pair of watches with a placing mix of colors and mechanics, maybe greatest thought-about a ‘his-and-hers’ or ‘father-and-son’ bundle deal. Solely 100 units will likely be made out there for CHF 59,000.
For extra info on this tasty collaboration between H. Moser & Cie and Studio Underd0g, please verify our interview right here.
