Typically, an merchandise can turn into so ubiquitous that we fail to query its historical past. Such is the story of the Movado Museum Watch. Certain, there’s a generally instructed story, however for an merchandise that even horology neophytes acknowledge, the historical past is transient and missing. What began as a typical fact-finding mission became an ongoing seek for extra.
You’re immediately forgiven for uttering the phrases “Who cares?” after studying “Movado Museum Watch.” In spite of everything, the once-pure design has been raped, pillaged, and left for lifeless in each method conceivable over the previous 60 years. The thought of a easy watch that evoked a sundial with the Solar at excessive midday began and in the end grew to become the face (pun supposed) of the present Movado model. At this time, we’ll have a look at the historical past, try to debunk the generally recounted tales, and examine the classic references. Lastly, we’ll go hands-on with one of many classic fashions.
Why the Museum Watch?
As a baby of the ’80s, I used to be used to seeing the Movado Museum Watch all over the place. It was extremely fashionable within the USA, and the design labored properly for slender, two-tone quartz items on bracelets and straps. I suppose it’s a credit score to the unique 1947 design that it translated so a few years later (to not my liking, however that’s inappropriate) and located repeat success. The success was so nice that Movado had standalone shops in high-end malls in the course of the ’90s. The model bought jewellery and equipment utilizing the Museum Watch because the underlying design inspiration. As a teen throughout that interval, I discovered Movado artsy and fashionable, nevertheless it wasn’t actually my factor.
Quick-forward a decade (2003, I consider), and I used to be in a Toronto jewellery retailer in Queen’s Quay. I recall a new-old-stock Museum Watch made in 1994 to rejoice the seventy fifth anniversary of the Bauhaus motion. It was beautiful with a gold-plated case and hand-winding motion, however at $450, I made a decision to cross. Nonetheless, the watch caught with me, and I vowed to seek out an unique classic mannequin. I lastly discovered an instance on eBay in June 2024, and since then, I’ve been struck by two distinct observations. First, I like this watch and discover it extremely underrated. Second, for a watch that most likely ranks as some of the recognizable designs of all time, there’s surprisingly little historic data.
The start
An off-the-cuff search on the Movado Museum Watch and its historical past results in the designer Nathan George Horwitt. Horwitt was born in Russia in 1898 and was primarily based in New York Metropolis and Massachusetts for many of his working life. After working a number of jobs, he grew to become a famous industrial designer. Horwitt created many objects, together with furnishings, clocks, and even a frameless image body. All instructed, he amassed 18 US patents earlier than passing away in 1990.
In 1947, Horwitt created his magnum opus, though it will take a surprisingly very long time for the remainder of the world to take discover. Horwitt envisioned a watch with a black enamel dial and an utilized spherical gold disc at 12 o’clock. A sundial was stated to be the inspiration, and he needed observers to pay attention to the altering relationship between the 2 easy stick palms and the dial. He produced three prototypes utilizing off-the-shelf 18K white gold Vacheron & Constantin watches with stick lugs and manual-wind LeCoultre actions. To date, I’ve not discovered any data on the place the dials had been produced.
The whereabouts of two of the prototypes are identified. One was accepted in 1960 on the Museum of Trendy Artwork (MoMA) in New York Metropolis as a present from the artist. It carries a creation date of 1947. Horwitt additionally gifted the second prototype to the Brooklyn Museum in New York in 1985. It carries a creation date of 1955. Horwitt stored the third prototype, and the whereabouts are usually not publicly identified.
Horwitt’s unique patent, granted in 1958 — Picture: US Patent Workplace
Not overly profitable at first
The unique Museum Watch design first got here to mild in 1947, however there have been no preliminary takers. Fritz von Osterhausen, in his ebook The Movado Historical past, reviews that Horwitt didn’t persuade Vacheron to supply the watch throughout that yr on a visit to Geneva. Accounts opine that the design was seen as too futuristic and sparse for the interval. The story then goes quiet for a prolonged interval, with reviews that additional prototypes had been made, together with a smaller piece for girls. Intriguingly, Horwitt filed for and acquired a design patent in September 1958 after an preliminary rejection in 1956. From the photograph above, it’s attention-grabbing how easy the outline is and that he was capable of shield such a rudimentary design. Additionally, notice the patent’s 14-year size, which will probably be a pertinent truth later in our story.
The primary try at manufacturing within the 1960 Neiman-Marcus Christmas catalog — Picture: eBay
A really transient glimmer in 1960
In 1960, the posh American division retailer Neiman-Marcus supplied the primary business model of Horwitt’s creation in its famed Christmas catalog. The pixelated picture makes it tough to look at. Nonetheless, a newspaper article from Horwitt’s hometown states that the watches had been produced by a significant producer and had white dials, a black dot, and black palms. The advert signifies that the instances had been 14K gold, nevertheless it could possibly be white or yellow. Lastly, it seems that the crown has an engraving. To my information, none of those early items has ever surfaced, so there are nonetheless questions.
Movado signed on in 1962
In 1962, the Museum Watch grew to become attention-grabbing sufficient to garner curiosity from a significant model. That is our first alternative to debunk probably the most generally instructed fable about these watches. Altering tastes and attainable curiosity within the watch on show on the MoMA could have led Movado USA to take an opportunity and produce the watch. It’s essential to notice that that is the place many historic accounts state that Movado “stole” the design and commenced taking advantage of its gross sales. My analysis reveals this to be unfaithful.
An commercial from 1968
Delusion 1: Movado “stole” the Museum Watch design
A 1975 case, Horwitt v. Longines Wittnauer Watch Co., Inc., refers to a royalty settlement that Horwitt had with Movado Watch Company Inc. from 1962 by means of 1971. Keep in mind, the design patent expired in 1972. Throughout this timeframe, Horwitt acquired 10% of all gross sales till June 1969 and seven% thereafter. The full was roughly $45,000, and the watch confirmed growing recognition towards the last decade’s finish, which led to greater royalty funds regardless of the decreased proportion. See the 1968 commercial above, which mentions Horwitt’s title and his design patent.
This doesn’t imply that Horwitt wasn’t annoyed after the patent expired. I discovered an article in his hometown newspaper during which he expressed that he had earned roughly $65,000 in whole from the watch whereas Movado continued to make tens of millions. Per the courtroom case above and several other others, Horwitt was an adamant defender of his design patent whereas it was legitimate. He settled with firms, together with Hamilton, as a result of patent infringement whereas unsuccessfully difficult different manufacturers.
Apparently, Movado countersued Horwitt in some unspecified time in the future after 1972 for the return of royalties as the corporate challenged the originality of his design and, due to this fact, the patent. I’ve been unable to seek out the Forties Omega and Girard-Perregaux watches that, in keeping with Movado, had comparable dials. Whereas I do not know of the precise preparations made between Horwitt and Movado throughout his lifetime or after his demise, his title and picture are used on the model’s web site.
Delusion 2: Movado produced the watch within the ’40s and ’50s
To debunk one other fable, and this now sounds apparent, Movado didn’t produce this watch within the ’40s or ’50s. Most gross sales advertisements for a classic Museum Watch refer to those many years because the presumed manufacturing interval. The supposition is smart to a level as a result of it now appears mind-boggling that this all-important design sat idle for the higher a part of 15 years after Horwitt first designed it. It additionally doesn’t assist that Movado doesn’t present any extract data on its watches.
The earliest Movado Museum Watches are a thriller
Most historic accounts state that Movado produced the Museum Watch as a US-only mannequin for the primary a number of years after 1962. The watches used US-made instances and dials with Swiss actions. In his ebook, von Osterhausen claims that the watch later entered Swiss manufacturing in 1965 and was outfitted with the manual-wind Movado calibers 245 or 246 primarily based on the Common Genève calibers 820 and 42, respectively. This leaves us with a thriller.
Visiting the revived Ranfft website tells us that the Movado caliber 245 was launched in 1960 and the 246 in 1965. If we take these introduction dates as gospel, what actions did the earliest Museum Watches use? One would presume a 245, however I’ve by no means seen a 245-powered Museum Watch or any motion apart from a 246 in an early Museum Watch. Additionally, as we’ll see, my watch is a 246-powered piece and includes a US-made case. So, the place does this depart us? If I needed to guess, the caliber 246 debuted sooner than 1965 and was used from the start.
Looking for classic specimens
For one thing as recognizable because the Museum Watch, most would assume that the market is inundated with early examples. A number of days of clawing by means of the web tells me that is merely not the case. If we recall that Horwitt noticed an acceleration in royalties towards the tip of the patent interval, this can be a trace that the watch wasn’t as fashionable at first of manufacturing. In fact, many watches have probably been misplaced to wreck, scrapped for gold, or haven’t resurfaced. My analysis for bigger (>30mm) classic examples with domed acrylic crystals has revealed roughly 20 watches. Do notice that 24mm items had been marketed to girls.
Permit me to make clear additional. First, I’m 100% satisfied there are considerably extra watches remaining. Maybe they haven’t been labeled properly for simple looking. Second, I’ve restricted my analysis to earlier manual-wind fashions with out “Zenith” on the dial. In the event you personal a later Movado Zenith Museum Watch, please don’t take any offense, however I choose the easy early fashions with out date issues, flat crystals, and many others.
A typical Movado reference quantity — Picture: Yahoo! Japan Auctions
The actions and watches
In my analysis, I’ve discovered two actions used within the earliest Museum Watch fashions. Many fashions I situated didn’t include particular motion data, so I made assumptions primarily based on case design and engravings. Additionally, it’s good to know how Movado numbered its watches throughout this era. The reference numbers include three units of three digits separated by dashes, resembling 246-224-085. Some watches include a further four-, five-, six-, or seven-digit serial quantity beneath the reference quantity on the case again, whereas others have the serial quantity on the case. When you’ve got any further data, images, or references concerning all of those watches, I welcome your contributions.
The primary set of three digits denotes the caliber. For this text, it contains the 246 and 352. The second set of three digits should be cross-referenced to a desk in von Osterhausen’s ebook. It reveals two items of knowledge. The primary two digits on this block relate to the case materials, whereas the third digit refers back to the form of the watch and/or the kind of strap or bracelet. For all the early Museum Watches, this third digit within the second block is “4,” which means the watches are spherical. Lastly, the final set of three digits denotes the kind of crystal. Any quantity inside the vary of 001 to 299 cross-references to an acrylic crystal.
Caliber 246 — Picture: Yahoo! Japan Auctions
The 246-powered fashions
As talked about, the Movado 246 is a manual-wind motion primarily based on the Common Genève caliber 42. It measures 19.8mm in diameter by 2.45mm thick. Specs-wise, the 246 has a frequency of 21,600vph, an influence reserve of 52 hours, and 17 jewels. This motion was supposedly produced from 1965 till 1971. The Museum Watches that housed it have a 32.5mm case diameter with 18mm lug spacing. Notice that these fashions present differing case kinds. The Swiss-made instances have strongly angled tip lugs and a distinct aspect profile, whereas the USA-made instances are extra primary with flatter-tipped lugs. Nonetheless, there are additionally variations between valuable metallic and metal instances.
Reference 246-214-027 in 18K white gold — Picture: Antiquorum
Reference 246-214-027 in 18K white gold — Picture: Antiquorum
Reference 246-214-027 in 18K white gold — Picture: Antiquorum
Reference 246-214-027
Reference 246-214-027 denotes an 18K white or yellow gold watch, and my assumption because of the alloy kind is that these had been Swiss-made instances. I’ve situated one instance in white gold bought at Antiquorum in 2021. On this instance, the lugs are angled and pointed on the ideas. Additionally, the lugs are hooked up to the case beneath the bezel’s high edge.
Reference 246-214-027 in 18K yellow gold — Picture: Nakahiro Tokeikan
I’ve not situated a yellow gold specimen, however there may be a picture from a Japanese catalog. The location proprietor claims the picture is from 1970, however I consider it’s earlier because the watches would have probably been marketed with Zenith markings on the dial by this time. On this picture, we are able to additionally see the proper buckle for these fashions, which bears the so-called “Fedora” brand.
Reference 246-224-085 in 14K yellow gold — Picture: WatchUSeek
Reference 246-224-085 in 14K yellow gold — Picture: WatchUSeek
Reference 246-224-085 in 14K yellow gold — Picture: WatchUSeek
Reference 246-224-085
Reference 246-224-085 is a 14K yellow gold Museum Watch. Examples of this reference had been the most typical ones I discovered on-line, and all however one had been within the USA. Equally, each itemizing that contained a photograph of the underside of the watch’s case again confirmed a stamp indicating USA manufacturing. The watch above is from a WatchUSeek discussion board submit during which the proprietor states it has been in his household because it was new.
Reference 246-224-086 in 14K yellow gold — Picture: Antiquorum
I additionally discovered a lone instance with the identical reference quantity and case materials however on a mesh bracelet. This specimen was bought at Antiquorum in New York in 2009. Additionally, and maybe this helps the declare that the 246-224-085 references had been the earliest manufacturing fashions, this reference quantity might be discovered on watches with comparable instances however with out Museum dials.
Reference 246-624-027 in a gold-plated case — Picture: WatchUSeek
Reference 246-624-027 in a gold-plated case — Picture: WatchUSeek
Reference 246-624-027 in a gold-plated case — Picture: WatchUSeek
Reference 246-624-027
Reference 246-624-027 denotes a case with 20 microns of yellow gold plating and a stainless-steel case again. As we are able to see, this can be a Swiss-made case, and it differs from the 14K gold mannequin in development. Nonetheless, all the examples I’ve discovered are within the USA.
Reference 246-704-027 in chrome steel — Picture: Yahoo! Japan Auctions
Reference 246-704-027 in chrome steel — Picture: Yahoo! Japan Auctions
Reference 246-704-027 in chrome steel — Picture: Yahoo! Japan Auctions
Reference 246-704-027
Reference 246-704-027 is intriguing as a result of it’s a completely chrome steel mannequin. I found this instance after punching in some completely different quantity combos which may make sense. This magnificence not too long ago bought on Yahoo! Japan Auctions, and I’m unhappy to have missed it! The watch includes a Swiss-made case with the identical lug profile and case again because the gold-plated model. In contrast to the 14K gold 246-powered fashions, the metal mannequin has its serial quantity inscribed on the again of the case.
Caliber 352 — Picture: @the.classic.collector
The 352-powered fashions
The Movado 352 is a manual-wind motion additionally primarily based on a non-Movado caliber. On this case, the Zenith 1730 was the premise. This motion is 17.5mm broad by 2.7mm thick and has a frequency of 21,600vph. The ability reserve is 38 hours, and the motion incorporates 19 jewels. Von Osterhausen states that this was a USA-only motion, and Ranfft reveals a manufacturing interval from 1967 to 1969. Primarily based on gross sales advertisements, I consider that the USA instances had been 32.5mm in diameter and similar to the USA-made 246 instances. The Swiss-made instances look like smaller at 30.5mm broad with a 15.3mm lug spacing. I hypothesize that the 352-powered fashions got here after the 246s because of the 1968 merger of Zenith and Movado. Nonetheless, I might not rule out the potential of each fashions being bought concurrently in the identical or completely different areas.
Reference 352-214-027 in 18K yellow gold — Picture: Antiquorum
Reference 352-214-027
The reference 352-214-027 is an 18K yellow gold mannequin on a mesh bracelet. I assume there are variations on a strap, however I’ve not situated an instance but. This piece was bought in Hong Kong at Antiquorum in 2016, and the outline lists a 30mm diameter. If we evaluate the bracelet high quality to the 246-powered mannequin on mesh, this seems a lot finer. Sadly, the dial is misaligned!
Reference 352-224-085 in 14K yellow gold — Picture: @orangeclockwork007
Reference 352-224-085 in 14K yellow gold — Picture: @orangeclockwork007
Reference 352-224-085 in 14K yellow gold — Picture: @orangeclockwork007
Reference 352-224-085
As with the 246-powered fashions, Movado supplied 14K and 18K to fulfill completely different market preferences. The 352-224-085 denotes a 14K yellow gold case. I’ve situated one mannequin on a strap with a US-made case. By the way, the case design is similar to the 14K yellow gold case for the bigger caliber 246, and this watch’s proprietor states that it has a 32.5mm diameter. Even the inscriptions on the underside of the case again are of the identical fashion.
Reference 352-284-085 in 14K white gold — Picture: WatchFreeks
Reference 352-284-085 in 14K white gold — Picture: WatchFreeks
Reference 352-284-085 in 14K white gold — Picture: WatchFreeks
Reference 352-284-085
One other beautiful reference is the 352-284-085 Museum Watch with a white gold case. Just like the yellow gold mannequin, this additionally makes use of a USA-made case however has seven digits within the serial quantity as a substitute of 5. Apparently, the motion image permits us to see how the well-known dot is affixed to the dial. The proprietor of this stunner requested questions on it on the discussion board WatchFreeks again in 2011. It’s a enjoyable little submit to learn and stuffed with questionable recommendation! Sadly, I’ve by no means seen one other one in all these, however it will be a stunning mannequin to personal.
Reference 352-624-027 in 18K yellow gold — Picture: Nakahiro Tokeikan
Reference 352-624-027
Sadly, I’ve been unable to find a specimen of reference 352-624-027. The Japanese catalog picture lists it as “GF” (gold-filled). Nonetheless, due to the “624” nomenclature, I consider the watch pictured has 20 microns of yellow gold plating. Moreover, the lug ends are extra severely angled, which leads me to consider that this watch has a 30.5mm Swiss-made case. Apparently, the catalog mentions a stainless-steel model with the identical reference quantity, however that was almost definitely the next watch.
Reference 352-704-027 in chrome steel — Picture: @the.classic.collector
Reference 352-704-027 in chrome steel — Picture: @the.classic.collector
Reference 352-704-027 in chrome steel — Picture: @the.classic.collector
Reference 352-704-027
The ultimate reference is 352-704-027, a stainless-steel mannequin. I’ve situated 4 of those references and consider all are 30.5mm in diameter with Swiss-made instances. One other hanging attribute of those references is the extremely patinated brownish dial. There isn’t a purpose to consider these had been something however black within the ’60s, however all have turned this beautiful shade for no matter purpose. There’s no radioactive lume, so the reason being a thriller!
A hands-on assessment of a classic Movado Museum Watch
There’s a core group of us preserving watch over all issues Movado on the same old public sale websites. On eBay, the platform is overrun with fashionable Museum fashions, making it uncommon to seek out one thing attention-grabbing. Again in June, although, I stumbled throughout a 14K yellow gold reference 246-224-085 Museum Watch with a USA-made case, and fortunately, it was right here within the UK. The watch seemed okay however most likely wanted a brand new crystal. With a buy-it-now worth of £400, I deliberated for just a few days earlier than hitting the button.
The watch arrived just a few days later, and actually, it was one of many extra extremely anticipated packages for me. I had by no means seen a classic Museum Watch in particular person, however I recalled the bubbly domed acrylic crystal on the 1994 reissue and the way it added heat to the comparatively chilly, sparse dial design. In reality, the acrylic crystal is a key purpose I don’t love later fashions with flat sapphire crystals. Evidently, the classic model exudes the identical feeling of heat.
Larger than its 32.5mm measurement suggests
It’s additionally essential to notice that regardless of the smallish 32.5mm by 38mm dimensions, the Museum Watch doesn’t really feel particularly small. Even with the darkish dial (we all know, darkish garments make us look thinner), the flat, skinny bezel and stick lugs work harmoniously and visually stretch the dimensions. Talking of the lugs, they’re easy and angled right down to hug the wrist. It additionally helps that the watch appears unpolished.
Inspecting the situation and fixing the crystal
The dial, nonetheless, shouldn’t be flawless. I wound the 246 and wore the look ahead to just a few hours round the home with a way of enjoyment. Then, after I eliminated my contact lenses within the night and went in for a more in-depth look, I seen that the dial contained some indicators of diagonal wiping throughout the decrease portion. I opened the case and popped the motion and dial from the case again’s cradle. Certain sufficient, I discovered indicators that one thing had interacted with the black enamel. I used some swabs with water to no avail, however below the crystal, it’s not overly noticeable. Fortunately, the gold “Movado Swiss” alongside the underside remains to be there, though it’s mild.
I seen the probably wrongdoer that led to dial intrusion. The crystal was not hooked up to the case on the lower-left aspect, so the watch went away for a number of weeks till I met my buddy Lawrence in London to rearrange an categorical repair within the metropolis. Simply £60 later, my watch was sorted.
Proudly owning a bit of artwork
Right here’s what I’ll say about lastly proudly owning a classic Movado Museum Watch. That is one which collectors shouldn’t dismiss so readily, even when the fashionable fashions have watered down the design to the extent that it has turn into kitschy. These early references really feel like items of artwork. The straightforward instances and aged enamel dials appear like one thing that has been in a museum for many years, but the design remains to be in some way fairly fashionable and related.
The fitting strap is essential
When the watch arrived, it got here on a plain black leather-based strap that seemed fairly good. It was a cheaply made one, although, and I used to be questioning what to pair the watch with as a substitute. I went to my bag of unloved straps (each collector has one) that had been unworn and sure got here with some classic purchases. We hold these straps regardless of figuring out there’s a slim probability of ever utilizing them. However then, eureka! I discovered a NOS 18mm black JB Champion strap that works completely with the watch. I not often select a majority of these straps, however I can not consider something higher!
Values and availability
Concerning values for any of the Museum Watch references I shared above, they’re all around the map. Individuals barely appear to care about them. Their smaller measurement and relationship to the hackneyed fashionable fashions haven’t helped. Because of this, I concern that many have been scrapped or are rotting away in a drawer as a result of folks assume they’re nugatory.
A $200–2,000 funds ought to internet any classic Movado Museum Watch, which suggests that the majority collectors can play so long as they will discover them. For my part, you’re getting a real artwork piece with a captivating historical past. Plus, as an American, I can’t assist however beam with delight that it’s a uncommon case of American industrial artwork that has gained world recognition. The conventional guidelines for classic watches apply when shopping for a Museum Watch, however motion elements can be found, and the dials are so easy that they’re not often touched.
Remaining ideas and conclusions
The Movado Museum Watch could not resonate with everybody, and that’s high quality. Nonetheless, there’s no disputing that it’s some of the recognizable watch designs from the previous 60 years. Due to this fact, I used to be shocked to discover a paucity of knowledge and stored studying the identical (largely incorrect) two or three paragraphs on a number of websites. Researching a watch like this takes time, and it gave me a newfound appreciation for many who do it repeatedly. Fortunately, we’re within the digital age, and newspaper archives exist. I hope you loved this in-depth have a look at a trailblazing design, and possibly you’ll assume otherwise in regards to the Museum Watch sooner or later.
I’d wish to thank those that contributed to this story or helped me alongside the best way. Charlie Dunne, Eric Wind, @mostlymovado, and @the.classic.collector all supplied data, photographs, or clues on the place to seek out extra historical past. Thanks!
