For plenty of years now, the Excalibur assortment has been Roger Dubuis’s hottest household of high-end timepieces. Named after the famed sword of Arthurian legend, what has typified all Roger Dubuis Excalibur watches is a notched bezel design and spherical case with an additional “third lug” protruding into the bracelet or strap. Apart from that, the Excalibur assortment of watches has been executed in a vivid array of types together with a wild assortment of dials, actions, supplies, and colours. Presently, Roger Dubuis solely makes watches with skeletonized dials (and subsequent actions), however in case you take a look at the model’s again catalog you will notice many extra demurely dressed variations of the Excalibur. That mentioned, this comparatively lavish all-titanium model of the Excalibur (the non-tourbillon, “Monobalancier” model, that’s), represents one of many present entry factors into the model presently. At present, I’d wish to assessment two comparatively related Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium watches: the reference DBEX0956 Excalibur Monobalancier (automated micro-rotor) Titanium, and the reference DBEX1112 Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium. Each characteristic the identical case and bracelet however have totally different Geneva Seal-certified mechanical actions.
Roger Dubuis makes its actions in-house and is extraordinarily happy with not solely the engineering effort, but in addition the ending and ornament of its mechanisms. This may be very difficult to know or visualize in advertising and marketing photographs, the place all surfacing therapies are made to look wonderful. In-hand although, the eye to element and fantastic thing about a very hand-finished and meticulously polished motion may be very obvious. It additionally helps that Roger Dubuis makes use of a very glare-free AR-coated domed sapphire crystal over the dial. The simplest approach to cheapen/spoil the look of an in any other case wonderful motion is to have a poor crystal expertise, which sadly is an issue in plenty of different watches. Roger Dubuis, nonetheless, has put within the further consideration to verify your eyes see the motion in its full glory because of utilizing the proper sapphire crystal element. Small particulars like this make a big effect and are what you need to be looking for when spending prime greenback on a luxurious Swiss timepiece.
I actually can’t emphasize sufficient how magnificence and detailing are a powerful promoting level of the actions in these two related watches. Roger Dubuis hopes that by giving each of those actions a prestigious Seal of Geneva emblem (and, after all, certification), shoppers will recognize the positioning of those calibers. Sadly, too few clients have any actual thought of what the Poinçon de Genève actually means in apply and execution. Again in 2016, aBlogtoWatch visited Roger Dubuis and mentioned intimately what it means for a watch to bear the celebrated Seal of Geneva mark. Briefly, it certifies {that a} watch motion was made throughout the canton of Geneva, it conforms to sure efficiency specs, and bears a sure degree of hand-finishing and ornament. Whether or not or not you realize or care in regards to the Seal of Geneva, its advantages are obvious when gazing into the dial of certainly one of these Roger Dubuis Excalibur watches.
Present Roger Dubuis design practices have fun a gathering level between basic and fashionable. These watches are produced in a standard method, however the firm has taken a distinctly up to date strategy to visible design, which is finest illustrated within the motion structure and magnificence. Whereas each the RD720SQ (micro-rotor automated) and RD512 (manually-wound flying tourbillon) caliber actions are totally different, they share similarities within the grey NAC-coating on the bridges, the general three-dimensional skeletonized bridge structure, the outstanding “star” bridgework that emanates from the mainspring barrel pinion, and a give attention to massive ranges of hand-finishing and ultra-precise machined detailing. The type isn’t for everybody, however these are actually cool actions, visually satisfying when seen from most angles.
Let’s go over the totally different actions in some element. Roger Dubuis makes use of the “Monobalancier” and “Monotourbillon” names to discuss with the truth that these watches have single steadiness wheels. That is to assist distinguish them from different Roger Dubuis watches which have two (or extra) steadiness wheels, such because the famed double-tourbillons (a lot of which seem within the Excalibur timepiece assortment). The “Monobalancier” time period used to discuss with the micro-rotor automatics is probably probably the most complicated for many who aren’t accustomed to the model’s product naming practices. I agree that, whereas the title sounds cool, it might need been a bit clearer to easily discuss with the watch because the “Excalibur Micro-Rotor Titanium.” The motion contained in the Monobalancier is the Roger Dubuis caliber RD720SQ, and along with being fairly, it’s a good performer. The motion operates at 4Hz (28,800 bph) with an influence reserve of 72 hours and is comprised of 178 components. A part of the Geneva Seal necessities is that the actions be correct and have glorious timing outcomes. To assist accomplish this, Roger Dubuis makes use of two small options which are necessary to level out on this article. These two parts are a diamond-coated silicon escapement wheel, in addition to the pallet stones that work together with the steadiness wheel.
This can be a barely totally different strategy from corporations that use regular silicon as a fabric for hairsprings. Roger Dubuis’ strategy to using silicon is extra about decreasing friction within the common operation of mechanical actions. This not solely permits for an elevated energy reserve but in addition higher accuracy over time, because the kinetic output from the unwinding mainspring modifications relying on how tightly wound it’s. Using diamond-coated silicon is uncommon within the trade, given how costly it may be to make. Watchmaker Ulysse Nardin produces diamond-coated silicon utilizing the tradename Diamonsil (which could really be what Roger Dubuis makes use of). Even Ulysse Nardin tends to make use of Diamonsil solely in its most high-end watches. Why coat silicon with diamond? To make it stronger and extra resistant over time. Silicon is a tremendous materials, however it is usually brittle. It will probably break in conditions the place metallic doesn’t, and there’s no potential to restore silicon components (you merely want to exchange them). Coating silicon with diamond materials will increase the energy of the element and doesn’t negatively have an effect on its mechanical efficiency. Roger Dubuis mentions using diamond-coated silicon within the caliber RD720SQ nearly as a passing word, nevertheless it is a crucial a part of what makes this Roger Dubuis micro-rotor automated totally different from the competitors.
The Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium dial retains issues easy by providing simply the time with minutes and hours. The dial feels classier with no seconds indicator, although such performance is usually appreciated by customers. Between the spinning automated rotor and the working regulation system, there may be greater than sufficient motion on the dial as it’s with out the presence of a seconds hand. One ultimate comment on the automated winding system: The micro-rotor is among the many coolest-looking available on the market, and it additionally turns with spectacular effectivity. Generally, these rotors seem to stutter a bit as they transfer, as a result of their mass is barely sufficient to maneuver the winding system. Right here, nonetheless, we see a really well-lubricated low-friction connection that enables the micro-rotor to maneuver easily and elegantly because it routinely winds the motion.
At a look, these two watches look very related, however the tourbillon model prices greater than double the worth of the micro-rotor automated and is a part of a restricted version of 28 items. Contained in the Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium is the caliber RD512 manually wound motion. It includes a stunningly lovely flying tourbillon with a cage product of titanium and chrome cobalt. This motion additionally bears the Seal of Geneva and is comprised of rigorously completed components. The tourbillon operates at 3Hz, and the watchvhas an influence reserve of 72 hours. This is likely one of the nicest-looking skeletonized tourbillon actions available on the market with (for my part) Roger Dubuis’ ending simply beating a number of others available on the market, particularly with regards to extra modern-looking mechanisms.
Regardless of the monochromatic grey tones of the general watch and dial, legibility continues to be fairly good. The palms may seem like extensions of the bridges on the actions, however they’re correctly sized, engaging wanting, and observe a minute/hour monitor across the periphery of the open-worked motion and watch face. These are literally fairly costly palms to make. The properly polished and finely detailed titanium circumstances are 42mm large, about 12mm thick, and have a roughly 52mm lug-to-lug distance. The circumstances are water-proof to 100 meters, and have a sapphire crystal because the caseback window. I discover the Excalibur Titanium case to be snug not solely ergonomically but in addition due to the lightness of the titanium materials. The one draw back is that titanium scratches simply, so you want to child these timepieces a bit and deal with them extra like jewellery than sports activities watches.
Roger Dubuis makes use of a proprietary tool-less bracelet detachment system that works fairly properly. The model wanted to develop its personal system to accommodate the distinctive third lug construction. Below the bracelet is a small lever that you may depress to take away the bracelet. The watch doesn’t include an additional strap (so far as I do know), however I can simply see homeowners of both the Excalibur Monobalancier or Monotourbillon choosing a strap to put on not less than a few of the time. One good cause is that the feel and appear of Excalibur circumstances actually are totally different on a bracelet versus the strap.
The titanium bracelet is snug and well-made, closing with a discreet butterfly-style deployant. My solely difficulty with the bracelet is that I really feel like it might profit from a bit extra Excalibur design DNA. For instance, may these notched edges discover a method onto the edges of the bracelet hyperlinks? I really feel as if Roger Dubuis may get a bit wilder with the bracelet design, particularly for the reason that Excalibur case and actions are a lot extra avant-garde by comparability. Think about, as an illustration, a few of the design of the detailed crown being carried over into the bracelet.
One of many causes folks like grey watches is that they’re so fashionably versatile. Grey might need a demure look by itself, nevertheless it pairs properly with just about any shade you may put on. That versatility is necessary as a result of a watch just like the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier or Monotourbillon is meant for every day or near-daily put on. It’s definitely snug gentle sufficient, and the presentation of the motion and dial are welcome experiences for the attention regularly. Cheap, they aren’t, coming from an achieved Geneva agency comparable to Roger Dubuis. Worth for the reference DBEX0956 Roger Dubuis Monobalancier Titanium watch is $66,500 USD, and the worth for the restricted version of 28 items reference DBEX1112 Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium watch is $151,000 USD (each costs don’t embody relevant taxes). Be taught extra on the Roger Dubuis web site.
