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Over time, watches are likely to turn into increasingly specialised: diver, driver, flyer, sports activities watch, gown watch… the listing goes on. However flip again the clock to the center of the final century, and on the overwhelming majority of wrists, you’d discover… a watch. As we speak, we would name that elegant and well-proportioned timepiece a gown watch, however again then, it was merely a watch. It went in every single place you probably did, and it did so with fashion. It’s that easy fashion that Texas-based model Jack Mason has captured in its latest launch, the Ellum, an understated and versatile gown watch that captures mid-century fashion and sensibility.
Although Jack Mason has been in enterprise since 2015, the model really got here into its personal — and into watch fanatic consciousness — in 2022 with the launch of its Strat-O-Timer, a real GMT that utilized the newly launched Miyota 9075 computerized GMT motion. That GMT stands alongside its Hydrotimer dive watch as undeniably sporty (and standard) fashions inside the lineup. So, why launch a gown watch in an period when sports activities watches are extra standard than ever and gown watches appear to occupy a comparatively small area of interest available in the market?
The reply begins in 2019 when Jack Mason launched the Ellum as a small-seconds quartz watch. Impressed by the Mad Males period of the 50s and 60s, the unique Ellum got here in at 40mm in diameter with a slim 10mm case peak and traditional pie pan dial. It was easy, traditional, and correct. Although the most recent Ellum nonetheless retains all of the Mad Males fashion, it does so in a redesigned and refined bundle.
Model founder, Peter Cho, describes it greatest: “For inspiration, we dug deeper than simply the TV present. We went again to classic gown watches to totally perceive the look, really feel, and aura of how the gents of the previous wore their watches. The brand new Ellum wanted a focus that outlined its function, and for us, that point of interest was creating a fantastic linen dial.”
Linen dials are coveted by many classic lovers. Although these dials have been standard within the Sixties, curiosity waned with the lower in reputation of gown watches themselves. But, of their heyday, everybody from Rolex to Patek Philippe to Seiko was making linen dial watches. In essence, a sample is stamped onto the dial to create the linen-like texture; nevertheless, the method is extremely time-consuming, as every line have to be machined into the hydraulic stamp at completely different weights and heights to create a sample that appears woven, like threads weaving atop and under one another.
Making a linen dial is one factor, however making the right dial is one thing else completely. “We needed to create dimension within the sample, and most significantly, have it look natural. In different phrases, our customary was that the linen texture wanted to be utterly randomized,” says Cho. It’s a dial that must be seen with a loupe to actually recognize, but even a glance from afar reveals its shifting tones within the mild.
The Ellum adheres to the modest dimensions that greatest befit gown watches, measuring 38mm in diameter and 45mm lug-to-lug, with a slim case peak of 9mm. The chrome steel case incorporates a high-polish end and can also be out there in a pure end or gold tone, relying on the colorway.
Serving to to maintain the case peak so slim is a Sellita SW210 manual-wind motion. For Jack Mason, it was a deliberate alternative to make use of a manual-wind motion in a watch that harkens again to an early period in design and magnificence, because it permits the wearer to decelerate and work together with the watch, creating a private connection via the method of winding every morning. It might solely take a handful of seconds every day to wind it, however that’s time spent admiring your watch, appreciating the dial, the field crystal, the traces of the case, and the adorned motion on show beneath the crystal. Jack Mason hasn’t forgotten practicality, adjusting every watch to +/- 5 seconds per day.
A gown watch just like the Ellum deserves to be on a handmade leather-based strap and that’s precisely what the model has created. The Ellum comes mounted on a color-matched Epsom calfskin strap — the identical leather-based utilized by Hermès, Chanel, and different masters of leather-making.
Whereas we could also be accustomed to poring over spec sheets on the newest sports activities watches, the Ellum invitations us to step again and recognize design for its personal sake. As Cho explains, “The fantastic thing about a gown watch boils right down to the product design. It’s concerning the degree of execution for each element within the watch. The spatial proportions, or, as we wish to name it, the “inside design” of the area beneath the crystal and above the dial, are all the pieces in a gown watch.” The Ellum presents a special expertise in a watch world dominated by sports activities watches — one which highlights slowing down and taking enjoyment within the second, specializing in the finer issues in life. The Ellum is on the market now, with costs beginning at $949 USD. To study extra about Jack Mason and the Ellum, please go to the model’s web site.
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