In the event you ask your self what’s essentially the most basic costume watch ever made by Patek, and doubtless one of the crucial essential fashions of the class, the reply ought to finally be the Calatrava. Not a lot to debate right here. The gathering, created in 1932 with the reference 96, has had such an affect on the watch business that the phrase icon is authentic on this context. However in recent times, there’s been Calatravas and Calatravas… with pilot-inspired watches or weekly calendars. What issues right now is the 96 lineage, the important, timeless Calatrava. Fortunately, the one all of us take into account has returned this yr with the launch of the Calatrava 6196P. And right here’s what I give it some thought.
What’s a Patek Philippe Calatrava (the 96 lineage)
After we take into consideration the Calatrava, we should instantly point out the all-important reference 96 by Patek Philippe, the watch that not solely began this assortment but additionally 1. saved Patek again within the days, 2. launched a brand new fashion of case building, 3. was principally the blueprint for the subsequent 90+ years and has virtually remained unchanged ever since.
Again then, Patek Philippe was dealing with tough instances, and brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern, dial makers (homeowners of the Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères) and suppliers of Patek, bought a controlling curiosity within the firm to put it aside from chapter. Their answer: a simplified, mainstream mannequin that might broaden the enchantment of Patek Philippe timepieces past high-end collectors while nonetheless sustaining the model’s distinctive repute for high quality and excellence in design and manufacturing. The reply was the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 96, a watch designed in response to the Bauhaus precept of type follows operate – so easy and pure that’s has turn into ageless. The fashion was guided by geometric shapes with a simplified and unified design between case and dial, with out thrives.
An essential factor of the unique Calatrava was its case form and building. Whereas now basic, the 3-part structure was novel again then, with lugs that have been an integral a part of the case center, quite than being soldered on (traditional within the early days of the wristwatch). The spherical bezel was a flat, so-called coin-edge factor, and the case combined a sure industrial look with magnificence and discretion. And the recipe didn’t change a lot, up till the last-known era of the 96 sequence, the long-lived 5196, which was discontinued in 2022. Certainly, for the previous three years, there was no such Calatrava within the assortment, although the extremely interesting reference 6119 occupied among the spots, however with a Clous de Paris bezel.
Remembering the Calatrava 5196
Earlier than this new Calatrava 6196P, and up till 2022, the function of the basic costume watch at Patek was given to the reference 5196, with a J, R, G or P subsequent to it for yellow gold, rose gold, white gold – all three with a basic dial and obus-style hour markers – and platinum, with a completely gorgeous two-tone silver dial with Breguet numerals. The 5196 was introduced in 2004 and got here with a 37mm case, simply 8mm thick. Extra trendy in proportions, it was nonetheless as basic as a Calatrava could possibly be, with its 3-part case with lugs built-in into the case center and its flat stepped bezel.
On the coronary heart of the 5196 was a hand-wound motion, the calibre 215. And there, some issues wanted to be addressed. Initially, this motion was removed from new in conception, courting again to 1974. Second, it was small, like, actually small, measuring simply 21.9mm in diameter, but with a skinny profile of two.55mm (these dimensions clarify why the 5196 had a strong again). The drawbacks have been an odd place of the small second counter – approach too excessive on the dial – and an influence reserve of simply 44 hours. In fact, it has been upgraded through the years, and its 4Hz Gyromax stability is provided with a Spiromax hairspring. However, all in all, it wasn’t essentially the most trendy of actions.
That being stated, I can’t assist however love the 5196, particularly the platinum model. It’s, regardless of all its flaws, my all-time favorite trendy Patek Philippe Calatrava. It’s as shut as it could possibly get to the unique 96 reference, elegant to a ridiculous level, filled with character and charmingly outdated. I’m totally conscious of every little thing that’s barely off with this watch, and but I completely find it irresistible and nonetheless rank it very excessive on my grail watch wishlist. Someday, perhaps…
The return of the basic Calatrava with the 6196P
Right here’s a brand new watch within the Patek Philippe Calatrava xx96 sequence… And imagine me after I say this, it’s massive information. On Patek’s scale, it’s the equal of a brand new Submariner at Rolex or a brand new Speedmaster Moonwatch for Omega. It’s time for essentially the most emblematic and timeless watch of the model to enter a brand new era – and I’m assured in saying that the Calatrava is as traditionally essential because the Nautilus, if no more. And whereas the model centered most of its communications this yr on the 8-day 5328G, additionally a watch a part of the Calatrava assortment, the arrival of the 6196P marks the model’s return to its most important codes. Which ought to have been below the highlight.
So what are we ? Basically, it’s an evolution of the vary, not a revolution. For the most effective, I ought to say. The brand new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P is the direct descendant of the 5196 era, itself an evolution of the 3796, 3438, 570 and, after all, the all-important 96. As such, it’s an unmistakably basic Calatrava, with every little thing that’s meant to be in it: basic 3-part case, flat bezel, elongated lugs, hand-wound motion, clear dial. But, the 6196P feels extra trendy than its predecessors. It’s not solely concerning the motion, it’s additionally about the way it feels on the wrist, the proportions and shapes and a few particulars on the dial. There’s a recent edge added to the ultra-conservatism of the gathering, and if I’m biased in saying that I cherished the watch, this isn’t a wholly unanimous opinion – extra on that once we come to the dial.
So, in 2025, the basic Calatrava returns in all its glory. A brand new era of xx96 Patek Philippe, with some main adjustments below the hood (lastly…) and a few minor updates on the case entrance. Let’s begin with the scale: 38mm in diameter, making it 1mm bigger and 9.33mm in thickness, thus a further 1.33mm in comparison with the previous, long-discontinued mannequin. We’re not speaking about important adjustments right here, and the watch retains the proportions you’d count on from such a basic costume watch, with all of the magnificence connected to the gathering. However only a bit extra presence on the wrist. Only a bit… Concerning the thickness, I didn’t discover the rise notable, and the watch stays skinny, but it could possibly’t actually enter the ultra-thin class anymore. This being stated, the development of the case, with a skinny center case, makes this 6196P really feel thinner than the numbers counsel.
On to the design… No surprises. The 6196P remains to be every little thing you need from a basic Calatrava, beginning with the center case that integrates these skinny and elongated lugs, topped by a flat, polished coin-edge bezel, itself framed by a calmly box-shaped sapphire crystal. The case is generally polished, with brushed flanks and being platinum, there’s a brilliant-cut diamond inserted between the lugs at 6 o’clock. For the primary time within the 96 lineage, there’s a sapphire again – and it makes good use of the see-through capability. As for my emotions about this case, it retains the edginess of the basic Calatrava – pointy lugs, squared edges for the bezel, flat flanks – with a bit extra curves than earlier than… I’ve a tough time discovering precisely why, however it feels a bit softer than a 5196. Perhaps there’s a bit extra curvature on the exterior aspect of the lugs, perhaps that’s the impact of the extra pronounced dome of the sapphire.
However what’s extra essential: it nonetheless seems brilliantly elegant on the wrist, with the sort of discretion you need in such a watch. The form of watch that solely these within the know will acknowledge as a tasteful and well-thought alternative, a watch with the “if you understand, you understand” impact. I’m speaking concerning the case specifically, because the dial has extra punch than the 5196. That stated, the likelihood of seeing gold evolutions within the close to future is excessive, and we may see extra basic dial colors. The watch is worn on a strap that, to my style, is the least interesting a part of this Calatrava 6196P. It’s unquestionably effectively made, however this shiny, large-scale brown alligator leather-based feels a bit outdated. I’d change it for a calmly textured calfskin strap in a mid-grey tone. Effectively, to every his personal. It’s closed by a pin buckle and comes with quick-release spring bars, so altering will probably be simple.
On to the dial… A rose-gilt opaline dial, or in watch-nerd phrases, salmon. A smart alternative for the introduction of a brand new era of Calatrava and an amazing match with the chilly tone of platinum. The dial has a matte impact (opaline) with a really effective grainy floor. It’s not your basic rose gold-plated sunray-brushed dial, however one thing much more discreet and informal. A color that feels in keeping with the present tailoring traits, gentle and pure tones with an earthy contact (the watch nerd in me tells me to cease speaking about this…). Nonetheless, the bottom of the dial has an interesting color that isn’t new to Patek and recollects the latest Perpetual 5320G, Chronograph 5172G or the in-line calendar 5236P. It even made it to the 5270P Perpetual Calendar.
Look intently in any respect these references and also you’ll see that all of them have in widespread blackened or anthracite-toned markers and palms. The Calatrava 6196P is not any exception and comes with anthracite white gold utilized faceted obus-style hour markers and dauphine-style palms. But, since these are the one components to be discovered on the dial, their presence is quite laborious to overlook. I personally like them. Particularly, as a result of their polished floor ensures that the color isn’t too harsh at sure angles. Frank Geelen, our editor-in-chief, is much less optimistic and would have most well-liked conventional rhodium-plated components. What’s sure is that in actual life, it’s much less contrasted than the unique press photos steered. I’ve saved the most effective for the tip: the place of the small seconds sub-dial. Precisely the place it ought to be, due to a brand new and much bigger motion.
Inside beats the calibre 30-255 PS, which made its debut contained in the Clous de Paris Calatrava 6119 and is a serious improve in comparison with the outdated calibre 215 on all potential ranges. One, due to its giant diameter (31mm), it could possibly now be seen by the again, and it properly fills all of the out there area. Second, this can be a trendy hand-wound motion with a twin-barrel structure (in parallel) providing a strong 65h energy reserve. Subsequent, it retains the identical 2.55mm skinny profile because the 215 and provides a cease seconds to the equation, subsequent to the now-usual Gyromax stability and Spiromax hairspring. Final, it’s a good-looking motion with fantastically formed bridges and an actual sense of magnificence. It’s properly adorned with Geneva stripes, polished bevels and perlage. It’s regulated to -3/+2 seconds/day.
Ideas and value
What to say… I feel this text speaks for itself, and sure, the brand new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P is a particularly interesting watch, all of the extra because it opens the door to a brand new era of Calatrava and a number of evolutions – white gold with silver dial, anybody? The respect of the normal Calatrava look mixed with discreetly trendy design components and strong mechanical content material inside makes for a watch with sturdy arguments. This watch is a real Patek Philippe in essentially the most conventional approach. Elegant, timeless, restrainedly luxurious – not all trendy Patek watches are born this manner. So sure, I’m extraordinarily optimistic about this launch. Up till I noticed the value.
Up to now, the basic Calatrava – perceive the 5196J, R, G or P – was the entry-level (treasured metallic) mannequin. Not so way back (in 2021), the yellow gold model was priced at slightly below 22,000 euros, and the platinum model was round 35,000 euros. The brand new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P retails for EUR 46,800, USD 47,135 or CHF 40,000. That’s some huge cash for a time-only watch, even in platinum and even contemplating the brand new motion, even with out debating how stunning it’s. Now, figuring out {that a} Calatrava 6119R or G with the identical motion inside and a barely extra advanced case presently retails for 33,700 euros, we will certainly count on the potential future gold 6196J or 6196G to be round 32,000 euros. Nonetheless not accessible, however that’s what now we have to take care of now. For extra particulars, please seek the advice of patek.com.
