I had the privilege of writing in regards to the final Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Salm0n launch for Worn & Wound in September. Serendipitously, Studio Underd0g was in Montreal the next week with the RedBar touring street present. It was an actual deal with to see and deal with their watches in particular person lastly. They even had certainly one of their Pizza watches and their Moser collaboration. The latter was fairly beautiful, as was the brand new Salm0n, however a part of me hoped that Studio Underdog wasn’t transferring upscale, forsaking what acquired them there within the first place: inexpensive, whimsical chronographs that make you smile once you look down at your wrist.
After I realized that Seagull had introduced a brand new minimal order amount of 10,000 models for his or her ST-19 sequence actions, I grew to become involved about Studio Underd0g’s hottest mannequin, the 01SERIES. This fear was heightened by the brouhaha that adopted the collaboration with Moser and the choice to make use of Sellita-based actions of their 03SERIES. Concern not, as Studio Underd0g has efficiently contracted Seagull to create an unique and enhanced model of their caliber referred to as the ST-1901B. This reaffirms their dedication to offering mechanical chronographs priced underneath $1,000.
For these unfamiliar with the historical past of the ST-19 column-wheel chronograph motion, its origins are Swiss. In 1961, Venus offered its equipment, tooling, and blueprints for the Venus 175 caliber to the Tianjin Watch Manufacturing unit. They then upgraded the unique 17-jewel motion to its personal 19-jewel ST19 motion, a direct descendant of the Venus 175. It’s extensively considered an inexpensive mechanical chronograph motion that provides wonderful worth. Whereas it’s sturdy and dependable, the inconsistent regulation of the chronograph’s eccentric screws can generally adversely have an effect on its efficiency and longevity.
The brand new ST-1901B manually wound column-wheel chronograph motion will characteristic an upgraded Swan neck regulating system, permitting for extra exact adjustment. Studio Underdog’s companion, Horologium in Nice Britain, now regulates these actions to inside -10 to +15 seconds per day, considerably enhancing the earlier customary of -15 to +35 seconds per day. Cosmetically, the bottom plate is now black and supplies a hanging distinction to the bridges, wheels, and stability. It nonetheless operates at 21,600 beats per hour and has an influence reserve of 45 to 50 hours, relying on whether or not the chronograph perform is in use.
Apart from securing the brand new actions, Richard Benc wasn’t completed upgrading his 01SERIES. He aimed to make sure that this could be the perfect model but. To realize this, he lowered the case top from 13.6mm to 12.9mm. He additionally elevated the thickness of the crown to boost the winding mechanism and proudly added the phrase “Assembled in Nice Britain” to the dial. Moreover, he enlarged the diameter of the show again to offer a greater view of the brand new motion. In my view, all of those refinements will additional cement this sequence as a contemporary microbrand basic.
The third technology Studio Underd0g 01SERIES retains the identical diameter of 38.5mm and lug-to-lug size of 44.5mm as the unique. Constituted of 316L chrome steel, they’re waterproof to 50 meters. A double-domed sapphire crystal covers the dial, and there are 4 colorways: the unique Watermel0n, the Desert Sky, the Go0fy Panda, and Mint Ch0c Chip. Every comes with a color-coordinated Saffiano leather-based strap with a tang buckle. The worth is $675, and pre-orders will open on November nineteenth, 2024, for a restricted time of 9 hours, from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm EST, on the Studio Underd0g web site. I’m thrilled to see Studio Underd0g proceed dancing with the one which introduced them.
