Final week was the second time I attended Watches and Wonders Geneva, and it was nearly simply as spectacular as the primary. Palexpo continues to be an immense venue, and the cubicles make it appear like you’re in a shopping mall full of big luxurious watch boutiques. It additionally nonetheless amazes me how many individuals are concerned within the watch business, and through that week, a lot of them had been there. After all, we had been there for the watches, and fortunately, there have been loads. If I have a look at my favorites, it appears it wasn’t a revolutionary yr for releases as a result of most of them are new variations of present fashions. Fortunately, that doesn’t make them any much less pleasurable to have a look at and dream about.
My go to to Watches and Wonders Geneva confirms what I’ve at all times instructed myself: you’ll be able to’t choose a watch till you’ve seen it in particular person and tried it in your wrist. After all, we knew what was coming from many manufacturers as we had obtained press releases underneath embargo for a lot of the new releases. For instance, I used to be excited upfront about Nomos’s new Worldtimer however wasn’t certain the way it was going to suit my wrist. Additionally, TAG Heuer’s Components 1 re-edition appeared very promising on paper, however I knew I’d have to take a look at the scale and shade mixtures for myself. Each of those watches made it onto my listing of favorites under. However there are additionally a couple of surprises there that I didn’t find out about or wasn’t too enthusiastic about prematurely. Let’s leap in.
The Nomos Membership Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
I wrote the introduction article for the brand new Nomos Membership Sport Neomatik Worldtimer. As quickly as Nacho despatched me the press launch, I knew it was going to be a winner. Nomos’s sportier Membership assortment speaks to me, and including the world-time complication and the model’s playful colours to it really makes it sing. I had one large reservation, although: Nomos watches usually have a reasonably lengthy lug-to-lug size relative to their case sizes. That’s why I despatched the model an electronic mail in preparation for writing the intro article and requested for the lug-to-lug measurement, which wasn’t talked about within the press launch. The reply was 48mm, which sounded very affordable together with the 40mm diameter.
After making an attempt it on on the Nomos sales space, I’m glad to verify that that is certainly a really wearable 40mm Membership Sport. I’ve additionally at all times been a fan of Nomos’s Zürich Worldtimer, however due to its longer and straighter lugs, that by no means appeared like a practical choice for me. The brand new Membership Sport Neomatik Worldtimer is extra compact, and the completely different colours on the dial assist make it appear a little bit smaller than it’s. The motion on the two o’clock pusher is tremendous clean and makes town ring rotate with satisfying clicks. Now you simply need to make the fitting determination about which shade to decide on. I heard the limited-edition Glacier model could be very standard, so be fast if that’s your favourite. All in all, I feel Nomos did a terrific job right here and created a shocking watch, particularly for its €3,940 value.
The TAG Heuer Components 1 Solargraph
TAG Heuer solely shared its press releases with us within the final week earlier than Watches and Wonders, however we certain received excited after we scrolled by the completely different variations within the new Components 1 Solargraph assortment. After all, these are re-editions of the 1986 originals. That was the identical yr I used to be born, so I didn’t expertise the unique assortment in particular person. Nonetheless, I used to be very a lot trying ahead to going hands-on with the brand new variations in Geneva. I’m a fan of solar-powered watches normally, and these colourful designs appeared like they’d be plenty of enjoyable on the wrist.
My favourite turned out to be the marginally extra modest non-limited bead-blasted stainless-steel model with the white dial and purple accents. I additionally fairly prefer it on the black rubber strap. In particular person, these watches have a really common dimension and a unusual case. Plus, they really feel somewhat strong. I feel this assortment is a good reply to the success of the MoonSwatch. Apart from, these watches really feel rather a lot sturdier and can most likely stand the check of time rather a lot higher than their Swatch counterparts. They’re additionally fairly a bit costlier at €1,750–1,850, however taking a look at TAG Heuer’s portfolio and the standard provided, I feel that’s honest.
The Hermès Minimize Le Temps Suspendu
Hermès was one of many manufacturers that didn’t share any info with us upfront. Final yr marked the introduction of the 36mm Minimize, which I preferred fairly a bit. This yr, the French maison reintroduced its Le Temps Suspendu complication from 2011 and put it in 42mm Arceau and 39mm Minimize fashions. I used to be particularly interested in that new dimension for the Minimize. It makes the watch really feel much less petite. Some stated that the 36mm model felt a bit too female. I’m glad to say that the larger Minimize can very properly maintain its personal.
The Le Temps Suspendu model of the Minimize comes solely in rose gold and prices a minimum of €28,000 with a rubber strap and €43,000 with a bracelet. That’s a bit a lot for my author’s wage, however I can’t wait to see what’s subsequent for the Minimize. The costs for the 36mm Minimize in stainless-steel begin at €5,400. I can think about a 39mm time-only model in stainless-steel shouldn’t value far more than that, proper? I suppose we’ll simply have to attend and see.
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 on the brand new Settimo bracelet
I used to be there at Watches and Wonders two years in the past when Rolex launched the brand new Perpetual 1908. Contemplating it’s a gown watch, the 39mm dimension is a bit intimidating for my 17cm wrist. Nonetheless, it definitely doesn’t look utterly misplaced. This yr, there have been rumors {that a} new 1908 mannequin was on its means. Ultimately, Rolex launched a totally new bracelet for the yellow gold 1908 fashions.
It’s referred to as the Settimo bracelet as a result of it consists of seven rows of hyperlinks, with 5 rows of smaller ones within the middle and a row of bigger hyperlinks on all sides. The bracelet encompasses a utterly polished end and Rolex’s magnificent hid Crownclasp. The top hyperlinks aren’t totally built-in, which makes the 1908 nonetheless really feel gentle and chic as a substitute of turning it right into a full-on sports activities watch. It does, nonetheless, make the 1908 really feel like a extra full package deal. The bracelet additionally feels very supple and clean on the wrist. As you most likely know, Rolex bracelets are a number of the greatest within the business, and the brand new yellow gold Settimo bracelet isn’t any exception. The Rolex Perpetual 1908 on the Settimo bracelet prices €36,200. The identical watch on a leather-based strap prices €25,550.
The Cartier Tank Should in platinum
This subsequent one was a pleasant shock. We received some info on the Cartier releases upfront, however this Tank Should in a medium-sized platinum case wasn’t in there. There’s additionally a model in yellow gold. Nonetheless, I choose the platinum one as a result of there’s extra distinction between the colour of the case and the darkish grey sunburst dial. Each variations function a barely enhanced sunburst end. Which means the feel is extra pronounced and fewer flat than on extra standard sunburst dials. It’s a really refined however noticeable distinction, and it makes the dial much more fascinating to have a look at. I’d swap out the grey alligator strap for one thing a little bit extra daring, although, like nubuck.
This Cartier Tank Should comes with the maison’s hand-wound motion 1917 MC. The value for the brand new Cartier Tank Should in platinum is €17,200. The yellow gold model prices much less at €12,300.
The Christiaan van der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite
Then, for one thing utterly completely different, we flip to Christiaan van der Klaauw and the magnificent Grand Planetarium. In itself, this watch is already very spectacular. It exhibits you a miniature illustration of the infinite area round us, proper there in your wrist. Christiaan van der Klaauw proudly introduced the watch in white and rose gold final yr for the model’s fiftieth anniversary. Nonetheless, at Watches and Wonders final week, CEO Pim Koeslag confirmed me a model with a case made from meteorite. This has been achieved earlier than, nevertheless it fits the theme of this watch so properly.
Fortunately, I ran into Morgan Saignes, our former photographer right here at Fratello, and requested him if he might take some fast photographs. Nicely, he delivered, after all, so I simply needed to embody this watch in my favorites. Don’t fear, I’ll additionally do a extra in-depth article on this spectacular watch as a result of it most undoubtedly deserves it. The feel on the meteorite case is out of this world, and it’s such a vivid materials as properly. Solely three will likely be made…if the model can discover sufficient high-quality meteorite, that’s. They’ll value €580,000 (ex. VAT) every.
Remaining ideas
Nicely, that about wraps up my favourite Watches and Wonders 2025 releases. Oh, and I nearly forgot, I additionally shortly walked over to the villa the place Time to Watches came about that exact same week and I noticed the all-new Fears Arnos in particular person. What an excellent little watch that’s, and I can’t wait to see which different dial configurations Nicholas Bowman-Scargill comes up with sooner or later. All proper, that’s it. Let me know within the feedback under what you consider these watches and what your favorites had been.
