Born in 1953 as a instrument look ahead to mountaineering, the unique Explorer (a.ok.a Explorer I) is a rugged, time-only piece for almost any event. Though comparatively unchanged at its core, the Explorer has seen many updates with a dozen or so reference numbers in its 70+ years of existence. The Rolex Explorer II launched in 1971 and didn’t substitute the unique, however complemented it as a extra feature-packed instrument look ahead to spelunking. The primary distinction was the addition of a 24-hour bezel and 24-hour hand to differentiate between day and night time when time spent in caves typically blurred these strains. Appearances have been deceiving, nevertheless, because it wasn’t a GMT watch – not but, a minimum of.
The First Explorer II, ref. 1655 (1971 – 1984)
Not like a real GMT watch (and even an workplace GMT), the extra 24-hour hand couldn’t be set independently or separated from the usual hour hand. Each have been synched collectively as the extra arrow-shaped hour hand merely adopted the 24-hour scale on the fastened bezel. It was nothing greater than a complicated day/night time indicator, however that will change with future fashions. The primary Rolex Explorer II (ref. 1655) was a stainless-steel mannequin like its older brother and featured the aforementioned fastened 24-hour bezel and an orange 24-hour hand, but in addition got here with a date at 3 o’clock with a Cyclops lens.
Why was the early Explorer II sometimes called the Steve McQueen watch? He by no means really wore one, preferring the Submariner as an alternative. McQueen was additionally finest recognized for carrying a TAG Heuer Monaco within the film Le Mans, whereas James Bond was the film icon recognized to put on a Submariner. The easy reply is advertising – Rolex leveraged McQueen’s picture to try to enhance ref. 1655 gross sales. Unusual how issues work generally. This transfer by Rolex could have originated in Italy however ultimately unfold worldwide.
Within the early Seventies, it wasn’t possible to place lume on an exterior bezel because it might simply be broken and turn into ineffective. To work round this, because the watch was supposed to be used in darkness, Rolex added an additional offset index between the hours on the dial to assist distinguish the place the 24-hour numerals fell on the bezel: 24 tritium marks in all. One simply wanted to do not forget that 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock have been six hours aside on the 24-hour scale. The addition of the date was a bit curious because it strayed from the targeted instrument watch ethos of the Explorer title, but it surely additionally made the piece extra versatile for each day put on (away from caves and mountains). In any case, we all know that almost all dive watches by no means really go diving.
The arms towards a matte black dial have been uncommon for Rolex as they have been a easy stick setup with tritium painted on about 90% of the black surfaces – usually, Mercedes arms dominated the portfolio (together with on unique Explorers on the time). An outsized inverted triangle was painted with tritium at 12 o’clock, whereas giant indices have been painted at 6 and 9 o’clock (the date eliminated the index at 3 o’clock). The unique straight seconds hand was painted white with out lume however was quickly changed by a lollipop design with a tritium aperture. The second (non-GMT) hour hand had a big orange triangle full of lume, which was later modified to crimson. Nearly all have pale over time, so nearly each ref. 1655 second hour hand seems orange right now. There have been some curious choices made concerning legibility, notably with the shortage of lume on the seconds hand and a date window changing the three o’clock index, however the earliest dial nonetheless suited its function nicely – low gentle exploration.
The Oyster case was bigger than the unique Explorer at 39mm in diameter (in comparison with 36mm) and got here with a three-link Oyster bracelet. There have been additionally further crown guards for elevated sturdiness. Water resistance was rated at 100 metres, and the unique crystals have been acrylic, not sapphire. The previous may appear much less sturdy by right now’s requirements, however acrylic was extra immune to shattering than sapphire – essential in a cave setting.
Calibre 1575
From the start, the Explorer II had COSC-certified automated actions, beginning with calibre 1575 – the identical because the Rolex GMT Grasp, ref. 1675. Nonetheless, the GMT Grasp had a rotating bezel for a second time zone. Again within the day, issues have been a bit quick and unfastened with this calibre designation. Opening an early Explorer II would possibly reveal 1570 stamped on the motion, which was incorrect however only a quirk within the Seventies. Additionally, the 1575 was a date-only motion, whereas the 1575 GMT had the extra hour hand, however this wasn’t at all times specified on the time. The 1575 collection was produced from 1965 to 1981, and the Explorer II variant had 25 jewels, a beat charge of 19,800 vibrations/hour (2.75Hz) and an influence reserve of 48 hours. It was primarily based on the sooner calibre 1560 however had a better beat charge (up from 2.5Hz) and a barely higher energy reserve (up from 44 hours).
Ref. 1655 Dial Variations
It’s frequent for Rolex fashions to have slight variations inside a reference quantity, and the Explorer II isn’t any exception. There have been seven dial variants for the 1655, produced from 1971 to 1984, together with two “service alternative dials” that have been obtainable after manufacturing ended (these received’t be specified right here). On Mark I dials, a straight seconds hand with no lume appeared in early manufacturing fashions, quickly changed by the extra acquainted lollipop counterpart with a lume circle. “T SWISS T” was additionally printed at 6 o’clock on these early fashions (designating the usage of tritium), together with a large coronet (Rolex crown) and “rounded foot” on the “R” of Rolex.
Mark II dials had the “frog foot” coronet (Rolex crown resembling a frog’s foot, additionally seen on the Explorer 1, ref. 1016). PERPETUAL was additionally printed in another way, showing a bit narrower than earlier than. Mark III dials had a wider, extra symmetrical coronet, and SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED was printed in another way, now having the “C” of CHRONOMETER and CERTIFIED completely aligned to create a vertical area between the higher and decrease textual content strains. This turned often known as the Rail Dial. Mark IV dials once more had a brand new coronet, this time taller and narrower. T SWISS T was changed with T SWISS < 25 T in a serif font, designating tritium that emitted lower than 25mCi. Mark V dials not used serif font for T SWISS < 25 T, and the coronet modified (once more) with a bigger oval aperture on the backside and a narrower design. Though the modifications have been delicate, they’re at all times main differentiations for collectors.
Ref. 1655 Bezel Variations
Mark I and II dial variants had a bezel with thick numerals nearer to the underside edge (not centred). Late fashions obtained the centred numerals, however the overwhelming majority have been used on Mark III and IV dial variants. A relative handful of Mark III dials obtained a bezel with thinner numerals (nonetheless centred), however the majority of these went to Mark IV dials. Probably the most delicate change got here to the Mark V dial variants, the place the 1 numeral had a “lengthy hook” on the high.
For collectors, early 1655 fashions are essentially the most fascinating, however the crown jewel is a Mark I with a straight painted seconds hand and thick bezel numerals (not centred). In fact, any 1655 variant will likely be extra collectable and costly in comparison with current counterparts. From a usability standpoint, remember that no 1655 fashions had GMT performance, which got here subsequent.
The Explorer II Ref. 16550 (1985 – 1988)
The following Explorer II mannequin, ref. 16550 is far nearer to what we now have right now. A big distinction is the addition of GMT performance. The extra hour hand might now be set independently of the usual hour hand, making it a real GMT piece. The bezel, nevertheless, remained fastened, so just one further time zone could possibly be tracked (not like the GMT Grasp collection with two further time zones, therefore the title). The case additionally elevated to 40mm from 39mm, and the acrylic crystal was swapped with sapphire. The crown guards turned a bit bigger as nicely.
The most important visible modifications have been Mercedes arms changing the straight variants on ref. 1655 dials and an optionally available white (Polar) dial, whereas the GMT hand was toned down with only a slim crimson stem and no orange triangle. The bezel was a bit wider, too. Taken collectively, the ref. 16550 Explorer II developed into a totally totally different watch, though the core aesthetics remained the identical. Wanting on the dial, indices have been now utilized with circles between the bolder rectangles at 6 and 9 o’clock. A big, inverted triangle remained at 12 o’clock, and tritium was nonetheless used as lume, once more designated by T SWISS < 25 T as seen on the ref. 1655 Mark V dial.
Calibre 3085
This was the primary Rolex motion to function an independently adjustable GMT hand and was initially used for the GMT Grasp II in 1983. The 16550 Explorer II obtained it in 1985 however once more retained the fastened bezel to distinguish it from Rolex’s flagship GMT fashions. It had a better beat charge of 28,800vph (4Hz), 27 jewels, and an influence reserve unchanged at 48 hours. It was additionally surprisingly short-lived, changed by the thinner calibre 3185 in 1988.
The Explorer II Ref. 16570 (1989 – 2010)
Visible modifications have been minimal with the Explorer II 16570, as the largest change was an upgraded motion, calibre 3185 (and later calibre 3186). Tritium was additionally changed by LumiNova within the mid-Nineteen Nineties after which Tremendous-LumiNova within the late Nineteen Nineties. The underside textual content modified accordingly to SWISS MADE from T SWISS < 25 T, which is the largest visible dial change throughout the reference, along with the font of the 24-hour scale on the bezel. The white dials additionally modified, gaining distinctive black outlines on the utilized indices and arms that have been silver on the sooner 16550 fashions. Though the legibility of earlier Polar dials was wonderful, this was a welcome improve.
Within the mid-2000s, the rehaut featured a ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX engraving to battle counterfeiting, so late fashions might be simply recognized. As well as, the Oyster circumstances modified from “holes circumstances” to “no holes circumstances” throughout 16570 manufacturing in order that each sorts might be discovered throughout the ref. 16570 assortment with early fashions having the previous setup. This refers to holes on the exterior ends of the lugs to take away the bracelet pins, whereas newer fashions had stable exterior ends and wanted a instrument between the internal lug and bracelet to retract the pin.
Calibres 3185 and 3186
Adjustments have been comparatively minimal between calibres 3085 and 3185, beginning with a rise of jewels from 27 to 31. The 3185 was additionally thinner at 6.45mm in comparison with 7.2mm, which is why the GMT Grasp II was sometimes called the Fats Woman, with a thicker case housing the older motion. It’s that GMT Grasp II that pushed Rolex to revise and refine the motion, however the Explorer II was quickly a beneficiary.
The following iteration was calibre 3186, which gained a Parachrom hairspring that provided higher shock and temperature resistance. Launched in 2005, it additionally gained a little bit of energy reserve to 50 hours from 48 hours. As is at all times the case, this hit the GMT Grasp II first in 2005 however inevitably went to the Explorer II in late 2006.
The Explorer II Ref. 216570 – the Orange GMT Hand Returns (2011 – 2021)
The Rolex Explorer II 216570 marked a major change to the collection and is closest to what we now have now. The case diameter elevated to 42mm from 40mm, and the placing orange second hour hand (now GMT hand) returned from the unique 1971 design. All arms and indices enlarged (fairly a bit) to compensate for the bigger dial, turning into often known as the “Maxi” dial. In fact, these aren’t radical modifications, however nonetheless important and signify essentially the most modern Explorer II aesthetics. Tremendous-LumiNova was changed with Rolex’s personal Chromalight lume that has a blue glow. All rehauts now had a repeating ROLEX, once more a counterfeiting measure. The Explorer II was already a mature piece at this level, so it could appear that ref. 216570 is kind of full from a visible standpoint. Nonetheless, who is aware of what the long run holds?
Calibre 3187
The upgraded motion for the 216570 gained Paraflex shock absorbers to go along with the Parachrom hairspring however is in any other case nigh equivalent to calibre 3186 (apart from minor modifications like a barely bigger base plate).
The Explorer II Ref. 226570 (2021 – At this time)
The prior 216570 fashions established essentially the most modern aesthetic, however the newest 226570 celebrates the mannequin’s fiftieth anniversary with a couple of notable modifications. In fact, a brand new motion was fitted (extra on that beneath), and the case obtained a (tiny) bit thinner (diameter stays at 42mm), the lugs obtained a bit slimmer, and the bracelet obtained a bit bigger. The Chromalight lume is claimed to be improved as nicely, with higher longevity in darkness. So far as visible dial modifications, a Rolex coronet is now between SWISS and MADE on the backside. As a result of, why not? That’s the best technique to differentiate this mannequin from ref. 216570. The white dial modified only a bit with matte black PVD-coated indices and arms, which is a change from shiny black.
The brand new Oyster bracelet has the most recent Oysterlock folding clasp (to forestall unintentional openings) and the Easylink extension system that gives as much as 5mm of motion with out instruments, as seen within the earlier reference. That is totally different from the Glidelock system on the Submariner, which supplies way more motion to be used over a wetsuit (20mm in 2mm increments). It’s nonetheless an important comfort.
Calibre 3285 – Chronergy Escapement
This calibre improve is unquestionably greater than incremental because it options the brand new Rolex Chronergy escapement. This can be a modified lever escapement that improves effectivity by round 15%. In layman’s phrases, it accomplishes this by decreasing the mass of elements. The escape wheel is now skeletonized, the pallet fork is smaller/lighter, and its pallet stones are smaller. It’s not fairly that straightforward, nevertheless, because the geometry of the escape wheel’s tooth is modified, together with the pallet stones. The poise of the stability wheel additionally improved by an element of three – this implies the precise balancing of the wheel is healthier (not not like how the wheels on a automobile are balanced). Nickel-phosphorous is used because it’s a paramagnetic materials, not fairly as anti-magnetic as silicon, however shut.
The brand new Chronergy escapement actually helps outline Rolex’s newest Superlative Chronometer standing as nicely, which has an accuracy ranking of +/- 2 seconds per day, in comparison with a COSC-certified motion at -4/+6 seconds per day. The facility reserve additionally elevated considerably to 70+ hours. Calibre 3285 is a significant horological achievement, first seen on the Grasp GMT II in 2018, and actually propels Rolex and the Explorer II into the long run.
Collectors
The Explorer II doesn’t have as deep of a historical past as its older brother, the unique Explorer, however there are nonetheless over 50 years of manufacturing. As talked about, all ref. 1655 fashions would be the most fascinating for collectors and consequently costly, notably the earliest fashions with the painted (no lume) seconds hand. From a usability standpoint, the next-generation ref. 16550 fashions are a lot improved with true GMT performance. These are nonetheless very collectable as manufacturing solely ran for a couple of years within the mid-Nineteen Eighties, making them comparatively tough to seek out. Ref. 16570 might be one of the best collection for fans because it’s nonetheless totally different than present fashions (40mm case, no orange GMT hand, early fashions had tritium, the rehaut was freed from ROLEX on the bulk and so forth), however had an extended manufacturing run of over twenty years. Earlier 16570 fashions will likely be extra fascinating and costly, however for those who desire a collectable Explorer II, any variant of this reference in good situation ought to do the trick.
If you happen to’re after a contemporary 42mm piece, the most recent ref. 226570 is finest because the Chronergy escapement is a bona fide leap from the prior 3187. That stated, any 42mm mannequin will present a comparable total expertise, and solely essentially the most seasoned Rolex fans will know the distinction visually. If you wish to avoid wasting cash and nonetheless sport the latest aesthetic, go for a extra fairly priced ref. 216570 and luxuriate in. Most will suppose it’s contemporary from the showroom ground.
