Watches and Wonders 2025 is about to shut its doorways and it’s time for Crew MONOCHROME to fly again dwelling after probably the most intense weeks of the 12 months. We’ve seen a whole lot of watches, if not hundreds, printed manner over 100 articles, took a number of hundreds of images and printed over a dozen movies on YouTube. However it’s time now to settle a bit and easily mentioned what have been the watches that gave us the perfect impression, the watches we, on a private stage, preferred essentially the most. The temporary to Frank, Xavier, Robin and Brice, the core members of the workforce was easy: no constraints, simply choose the three watches that you just’d need in your wrist.
Observe: this choice is predicated on our personal preferences. We’ll come again with extra of those alternatives within the coming days, overlaying particular subjects – technical, design, inexpensive… So keep tuned.
Brice – Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
Why…? As a result of it’s the essence of the gown watch by Patek, a watch that’s basic, restrained, discreet – but with a contact extra boldness this 12 months – and the direct descendant of the emblematic and essential reference 96, and the watch that lastly replaces the too-long-discontinued reference 5196. This 12 months, Patek brings again this basic reference in a barely bigger 38mm case product of platinum, measuring solely 9.3mm in thickness. Sure, it’s a bit greater than up to now however contemplating the enlarged case, and the truth that inside beats a contemporary motion with 65h energy reserve, we are able to pardon that. After which comes the dial, in a good-looking rose gold opaline color, with placing anthracite polished markers – which didn’t make unanimity throughout the workforce…
For extra particulars, please seek the advice of our article right here.
Frank – Chopard L.U.C Quattro Platinum
Why…? As a result of the Quattro has all the time been probably the most fascinating motion of the Fleurier manufacture, with its spectacular 9-day energy reserve stacked in 4 mainsprings, and but extraordinarily compact proportions (28.6mm by solely 3.75mm), with very good ending. For the 25 years of this motion, Chopard gave a really tasteful revamp, in a platinum case of solely 39mm x 10mm. One of the best is the dial, which has been totally redesigned and new has a grained texture, streamlined markers and arms, and an influence reserve hidden on the again. The watch is fashionable, elegant, refined and but packs a punch with its mild blue dial and good gray strap. A winner.
For extra particulars, please seek the advice of our article right here.
Robin – Parmigiani Toric Perpetual Calendar Gold
Why…? As a result of the model has discovered its type and manages to combine refined, minimalistic design with a contact of discreet luxurious, whereas on the similar time bringing mechanical magnificence – as a Parmigiani watch all the time does. The brand new path has introduced a improbable design consistency and the brand new Toric Perpetual Calendar, with its good-looking mixture of colors and supplies (particularly within the gold edition-, in addition to a streamlined show for the calendar, is easy wonderful to look, put on and use. The again reveals a motion with the identical concept of design, with bridges product of gold and ending in a reasonably placing manner.
For extra particulars, please seek the advice of our article right here.
Xavier – Vacheron Constantin Solaria Grande Complication
Why…? Properly, just because it’s the most complex wristwatch ever created. However in addition to its 41 problems throughout two dials and 1,521 elements for the motion, there’s extra to the VC Solaria. The model has managed to provide it a contemporary twist, a design that feels up to date and technical, but in addition a really first rate legibility – not less than contemplating the loopy quantity of indications on each dials. The checklist of marvels… 6 time indications, 8 perpetual calendar indications, 3 lunar indicaitons, 14 astronomical indications, 5 chiming capabilities, split-seconds chronograph. And lots of, many extra. A real feast of miniaturization and watchmaking, which needs to be praised though it’s inaccessible and distinctive.
For extra particulars, please seek the advice of our article right here.
Brice – Rolex Perpetual 1908 Settimo bracelet
Why…? As a result of it is likely one of the most elegant watches on metallic bracelet of the 12 months. This new bracelet for Rolex, named the Settimo, was a shock and is, within the metallic, easy beautiful. Supple, dressy, vintage-looking and beautifully executed. It wears like a allure, and appears improbable connected to the already very interesting 1908 Perpetual watch. One other shock comes from the truth that Rolex brings it on straight end-links and never its standard stable end-links, however this opened look between the case and the bracelet provides to the classic allure, with a little bit of a Homosexual Frères contact. The hid clasp can be beautiful visually, though it means no micro-adjustment system. For now, it solely is available in yellow gold, with a selection of white or black dial. And it certainly doesn’t come low cost…
For extra particulars, please seek the advice of our article right here.
Frank – Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G
Why…? As a result of it’s a visually and mechanically good watch. The mixture of the trendy Calatrava type, first launched in 2022 with the Annual Calendar Journey Time 5326G – sure, this sharp case with clous de Paris on the aspect is really one thing particular – with a robust hand-wound motion (which is derived from the Gondolo 5200) is making fairly a whole bundle. Wanting via the caseback, the calibre 31-505 has a basic and interesting pocket-watch look and the entrance of the dial, with a textured gradient blue dial with a number of problems packed in a intelligent manner is nothing wanting nice too. A contemporary Patek as we’d wish to see extra typically.
For extra particulars, please seek the advice of our article right here.
Robin – A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold
Why…? Due to the delicate tone and flex of the Honeygold mixed to a heat, charmful tobacco brown dial, but in addition all the things constructive we all the time mentioned in regards to the Odysseus: the practicality of the pushers, the good mixture of sportiness and daily-usability with mechanical Lange magnificence. This re-creation, worn on an identical gold bracelet, is definitely not essentially the most discreet and never the lightest on the wrist however nonetheless has a sure subtleness regardless of its materials and colours. It’s as tasteful as a Lange sports activities watch can get and nonetheless retains what we love about this mannequin basically.
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Xavier – Rolex Land-Dweller
Why…? Properly, for a lot of causes. One, it’s a completely new Rolex assortment and that’s not one thing we see typically. Second, it marks the return of Rolex within the built-in bracelet market. However Xavier definitely expresses some reservations relating to the design – it’s not love at first sight and it’ll take a little bit of time to digest the watch as a complete. His foremost motive for together with the Land-Dweller on this choice is pure mechanical. Certainly, with the calibre 7135, Rolex launches a reasonably revolutionary escapement, the Dynapulse, a sequential distribution escapement made out of silicon, with two escape wheels displaying a extremely complicated geometry and a steadiness employees made out of ceramic. The entire meeting, regardless of the 5Hz frequency (a primary for the model), is extremely environment friendly and the ability reserve stays to a snug 66h. Rolex has executed the sudden right here, and totally on an industrial manufacturing scale that was hardly conceivable.
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Brice – Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Gold Milanese
Why…? As a result of it’s the first Reverso I’d actually wish to personal. The JLC Reverso is a watch that I’ve all the time loved seeing on different’s wrist however I’ve by no means managed to search out the fitting mannequin for me. Placing the brand new Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with gold Milanese bracelet on the wrist might need lastly give the reply: that is the one. And it’s laborious for me to confess it, as gold watches will not be totally my factor. Right here although, the consistency of the design, the feel of the dial and its gold color, the flexility and luxury of the bracelet, in addition to the near-perfect proportions of the case – particularly the 7.5mm thickness – are making it top-of-the-line Reverso available on the market.
For extra particulars, please seek the advice of our article right here.
Frank – A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual
Why…? As a result of Frank wouldn’t be Frank if there was not one thing extremely technical in his choice. And this new Lange Minute Repeater Perpetual is kind of spectacular technically talking. In fact, there’s the minute repeater system – which sounds superb as I may expertise – and a motion that’s spectacular, even with its restrained frosted ornament. However the Lange Minute Repeater Perpetual is extra than simply mechanics, because it additionally brings all of the experience of the model in dial making. It comes with an extremely deep black enamel dial, a monochromatic look that Frank needed to approve (this web site isn’t named MONOCHROME with out causes) and a good-looking hand-engraved moon disc. A placing watch, in all senses of the phrase.
For extra particulars, please seek the advice of our article right here.
Robin – Nomos Membership Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
Why…? As a result of it appears to be like improbable, contemporary and fashionable, but in addition is likely one of the greatest “worth proposition” watches of the truthful. Not that it’s notably accessible, however contemplating all you get on your cash, the Membership Sport Neomatik Worldtimer is definitely spectacular… An in-house, skinny computerized motion, a traveller’s complication that’s extremely sensible with its correction pusher, a sporty look with nice ending, a cool metal bracelet, all of that for lower than 4,000 euros. Properly executed, Nomos. The watch is accessible in 6 colourful restricted editions, in addition to 2 basic editions: darkish blue and silver. And the latter, with its playful and dynamic execution, made fairly an impression on Robin.
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Xavier – Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135
Why…? As a result of Zenith is bringing again considered one of its most essential actions – sure, the model has much more underneath its sleeve than simply the El Primero… The Le Locle-based model relaunches the Calibre 135, a legendary engine that was essentially the most awarded motion from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. It’s now again to life and modernized, with longer energy reserve, improved kinetic chain however nonetheless an outsized steadiness wheel that options regulation screws and nonetheless Charles Fleck’s attribute double arrow-shaped regulator for superb adjustment. The motion can be superbly completed and is available in a good-looking platinum case with nice proportions. It’s first introduced on this blue version for the model’s a hundred and sixtieth anniversary however extra basic editions will come later.
For extra particulars, please seek the advice of our article right here.
